11 Oct 2019

Here’s lookin’ at you kid!

Of course, that’s a famous line from the movie Casablanca. The movie, however, was filmed almost entirely at Warner Bros. Studios in Burbank, California, and not in Morocco at all, but nonetheless, we are excited to be soon walking the streets of Casablanca…as well as many other cities throughout the country.

According to the US Department of State, “Morocco was one of the first countries to recognize the newly independent United States, opening its ports to American ships by decree of Sultan Mohammed III in 1777. Morocco formally recognized the United States by signing a treaty of peace and friendship in 1786, a document that remains the longest unbroken relationship in U.S. history.”

And now, allow me to paraphrase one more movie line that’s apropos “…I think this will be the beginning of a beautiful adventure!”

12 Oct 2019 Casablanca Le Casablanca Hôtel

We are traveling with Allan’s sister Joyce and her husband Stuart, so we are looking forward to a fabulous adventure! Our flights were great…and we had no problems with the hour and ten minute time frame to make our connection to Casablanca from Paris. Our luggage arrived safely in Casablanca and we met our driver and he drove us to the Le Casablanca Hotel. Our driver really didn’t speak much to us during the ride, which is unusual because the drivers usually chat about the sights that we are seeing along the way.

After a forty minute drive, we arrived at the hotel which is beautifully appointed in art deco style with chandeliers, gorgeous drapes, and plush furniture. Our room is quite lovely as well… Very spacious and we were given cookies and fruit to enjoy as well as a drink voucher to use at dinner if we decide to dine at the hotel.

We met our guide Issmail shortly after arriving, as well as another couple from the tour group, Carolyn and Dave, who hail from Colorado. Issmail is 32 years of age and is married. He’s been working for OAT for two years and works with other tour companies as well.

He took us on a short walk to get familiar with the surroundings… the ATM machine to obtain the Moroccan currency which is the Dirham and to show us where the locals buy their wine. Of course we had to purchase two bottles to take with us on the pre-trip which begins tomorrow since we won’t be able to purchase wine in Chefchaouen.

We had a delicious lunch at the hotel and spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing.

The entire pre-trip group met with Issmail at 6 pm for a briefing about the pre-trip, and we met the seventh member of our pre-tour group, Sally, who comes from Virginia. After the briefing some of us went to dinner at the hotel and we invited Issmail to join us. We had wonderful discussions on a myriad of topics… Marriage, taxes, customs, food, etc., and we enjoyed his company very much.

By the way…Issmail told us a famous French American actor is staying here at the hotel, but he couldn’t remember his name. We’ll have to check out faces in the morning.

We leave at nine tomorrow for Chefchaouen and it will be quite a long drive.

13 Oct 2019 Chefchaouen

After a nice breakfast, we left Casablanca and started the 6 hour bus ride to Chefchaouen. Casablanca was named by the Portuguese and means white house. White mausoleums are a sign of respect for honoring important people and when the Portuguese arrived in the area, they saw these “white houses” in the cemeteries and thus named the town Casablanca. When a person dies, they are buried on their side, facing east towards Mecca. A stone is placed at their head and at their feet to mark the size of the grave. There are no tombstones with names on them. A male’s headstone is tilted slightly towards the east while a female’s headstone is placed perpendicular to the body.

The Port of Casablanca is one of the largest ports in the world. There are primarily three languages spoken in Morocco… Arabic, French, and Berber.

Morocco grows wheat and barley, yet because the country needs so much of it to feed the population, they import much from the United States. 40% of the population is involved in agriculture and olives, vegetables, and citrus fruits are also grown. Tourism of course is also of huge economic importance.

Issmail told us that gasoline is a little under 4 dollars a gallon. Touring buses and vehicles must be turned in for new ones every 10-12 years and the vehicles are inspected every 6 months. Good to know!

Soccer is the big sport in the country as well as track. Morocco participates in the Olympics and has won 6 gold medals in sports over the years.

We stopped on the way to Chefchaouen for lunch in a road side BBQ restaurant and dined on lentil soup, olives, grilled lamb chops, chopped beef with tomatoes and a vegetable tagine which was absolutely delicious. We are not supposed to drink the water and so we were told to wipe and dry the glassware and plates etc., before using them for our food. It was a fabulous lunch… The meat is butchered on the premises.

We continued on our way, past farmlands where the donkeys and goats roam and where in the spring, all kinds of vegetables are cultivated. The produce had already been harvested, so the fields were bare.

Sugar cane was growing along side the road and sugar is a mainstay of the Moroccan diet. They use a lot of sugar… in tea primarily, which they drink all day. A gift that would be given to mark a special occasion like a wedding or the birth of a child would be a sugar cone which is a cone of sugar wrapped in paper. It is a meaningful gift and a gift of congratulations. Interestingly, Issmail told us that a high percentage of Moroccans have diabetes and bad teeth… No doubt from eating the sugar.

Chefchaouen was named by the Berbers and means Goat’s Horn because the town is nestled between two mountains that look like horns. Our first view of the town was from on high and we were able to see the gorgeous blue shades of all the homes in the valley. Breathtaking!

We checked into our hotel which is a quaint riad or home turned into a hotel. It is beautiful. Allan and I are on the top floor overlooking the gardens and the room is very romantic and just lovely.

We walked around Chefchaouen and there was a picture opportunity at every turn. The doors, the windows, the homes painted gorgeous shades of blue. We walked to the square and Issmail showed us some dining places for tomorrow evening.

We all walked back to the hotel and had a delicious dinner… Moroccan soup, olives, eggplant, and carrots for appetizers and then Allan and I had the chicken tagine. We enjoyed our soup the Moroccan way… Holding the bowl in our hands and slurping the soup into our mouths. A wonderful way to enjoy! The blending of the spices… Amazing! We drank some of the wine we purchased a few days ago and then we said goodnight to all because we have a busy day tomorrow.

14 Oct 2019 Chefchaouen Hotel Dar Echchaouen

After a breakfast of cheese, tapenade, yogurt, olives, bread and eggs, we made our way thru the streets of Chefchaouen and marveled once again at the gorgeous blue-washed buildings. The streets were bustling with venders selling their wares – leather goods, spices, clothing, hats, and the pigment paints needed to paint the outside walls and doors as well as the interior walls, those fabulous blues. The powdered pigment is mixed with water and gypsum and after it has been painted on the walls, it lasts for about 6 months.

There are some communal areas in the town for the residents to do their laundry, equipped with a water trough and washboards for scrubbing the clothing. There are also communal ovens on many corners where the people can bring their dough to be baked. The people can bring buckets and can fill them up with free water from the many faucets around town. There are cats that roam all over and dogs as well. Cats are welcomed into Moroccan homes but dogs are not because they are considered to be unclean. We were told not to approach dogs on the street because of rabies.

We then boarded our van and traveled to Houmar to meet a rural family and participate in a home hosted lunch. We met Mohammed, his wife Ihssan and their two children and we were treated to an amazing Moroccan lunch.

When we first arrived, we were welcomed into the home with a ceremonial serving of tea. Water had been boiled and poured into a fancy pitcher. Mohammed placed the tea leaves in the pitcher and brewed the tea to the desired strength. Then he added a handful of fresh mint leaves and was going to add heaping tablespoons of sugar, but we all wanted our tea just slightly sweetened, so he only put a little in. I had my first glimpse of the sugar cone that I had read about. Their sugar cone was a gift to them to commentate a special occasion, and it lasts about a week in their home because of all the sugar they consume. We couldn’t believe the family consumed that much sugar!!! The cone must have been the equivalent to a five pound bag. The family drinks tea all day long so it is no wonder the sugar is used up quickly especially since for every pot of tea made, numerous tablespoons of sugar go in.

We all participated in preparing the fresh vegetables from their garden – peeling and chopping potatoes, sweet potatoes, onion, garlic, tomatoes, eggplant, and lime. Cumin, turmeric, pepper, and ginger were added as well as olive oil and water and all was layered into the tagine and cooked on the stove for 15 minutes.

We had cauliflower that had been dipped in egg first and Stuart showed his cooking prowess by dipping the florets in egg. The florets were then sautéed in olive oil. The family grow their own olives and make their own olive oil so we dipping the homemade bread into the delicious oil. The highlight of the meal was goat meat which I had never tried but enjoyed very much. It tasted much like beef.

After our meal we sat and talked with Mohammed and Ihssan. They told us how they met at a festival 6 years ago and exchanged contact info. They kept in contact for 6 months and then Mohammed’s family asked her family for her hand. On the night of her wedding, Isshan had three different dresses to wear for her wedding day and changed into them as the evening progressed. Mohammed had two outfits that he changed into.

They have two little girls and the older one regaled us with her ability to recite the numbers 1-10 in English. School is mandatory until the age of 12 for children and it is free for all children from elementary through college.

The home that they live in was built by Mohammed. He bought the land and built the house out of wood, reeds, clay, mud, rocks, and plaster. The clay and rocks serve to insulate the home. They have running water and electricity and they grow their own vegetables to live on. They participate in the Overseas Adventure Travel home hosted program twice a week in peak season and 4 times a month in the off season, which helps them to have the money needed to provide for their family.

It was time to leave and we hugged everyone and Allan and I gave the family a gift of Hershey kisses and Moravian sugar cookies. It’s good to know, after hearing all about their sugar intake, that they have a sweet tooth!

We traveled back to our riad and at 5 pm, we met with a local woman named Fatima, who discussed mountain Berber culture and its impact on Moroccan women.

Women in the rural areas have a difficult time getting educated. Many times they are not encouraged to attend school after the age of 12 and they stay at home to help with the farming and household tasks. The schools for the under the age of 12 group find many ages in one classroom with one teacher, so 6 year olds would be taught next to 12 year olds. The teachers that teach also have a difficult time getting to the schools they work at, many times having to ride mules to get to class.

The girls who want to further their education will leave their rural home and study in the city where getting to the school is much easier. But they can only do this if they are able to stay with a relative or with someone who would be responsible for them while away from their family. Women who attend school in the city can choose careers outside of the previous options such as nursing or teachIng, and instead focus on careers in law or medicine.

Fatima went on to discuss traditions in dress. Typically, many Berber women continue wearing the traditional clothing of their predecessors and sometimes will add a western flair to their garb as they are no longer required to wear traditional garments, but instead do so because it is their choice. You can see many traditional costumes worn as you walk the streets… And Morocco sometimes, they are very different in style.

Fatima also spoke about the health care system in Morocco which is poor at best. There are private and public hospitals and because there is little money for equipment in the public hospitals, thereby attracting subpar medical staff, the treatment is not stellar. Private hospitals are better – you get what you pay for.

In 2004, the Moroccan Family Law was instituted. Before 2004, a woman needed the approval of a male in her family to get married and it was very difficult for a woman once married, to obtain a divorce. With the new law, as long as a woman was 18 or older, she was allowed to marry a man of her own choosing. And another result of the new law; divorce, can now be exercised as much by the husband as by the wife.

What is still taboo in the Moroccan culture is sexual relations outside the bond of marriage. If a man is found having relations prior to marriage, it is punishable by law. However, if a child is conceived as a result of the infidelity, the man has no fault and it is the woman who bears the stigma. She usually is ostracized from her family and she goes on her own to either have the child or have an illegal abortion. She can bear the child and put the infant up for adoption, but she will never be welcomed back into her family.

We thanked Fatima for her honest discussion with us. It was very informative and we learned many things about woman in Morocco.

Joyce, Stuart, Allan, and I decided to eat dinner at the riad again, and before dinner we chatted with Issmail and were also serenaded by two young waiters as they sang songs and one played his guitar. They are adorable and we enjoyed their performance. I had given the one young man Hershey kisses the night before and he told me he shared them with the staff.

We dined with Issmail and had a great discussion on Moroccan and American politics as well as health care and religion. Dinner was great. We drank the wine that we purchased and then we went off to bed to get a good night’s rest for tomorrow.

15 Oct 2019 Tetouan Riad Hicham

Today we visited Tetouan, a city located in northern Morocco and nicknamed “The White Dove.” In the 15th century, thousands of Muslims and Jews settled on the ruins of the city. Now, the vast majority of the population are Muslims, although small Christian and Jewish communities also exist, but their presence has declined sharply in recent decades. The medina (old City) of Tetouan is a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1997.

As we drove to Tetouan, we saw a sheep market and the sheep were all standing around unaware of their soon to be fate. The market is open one day a week and the people come to purchase their butchered meat. I’m not sure if I could eat the meat after looking into those soulful eyes.

We finally arrived in the city and started our walking tour. We passed the palace where the king lives when he is in residence, however Rabat is where the king normally resides. We walked through the old medina souks, where crafts abound and as we walked through the narrow alleys we saw workshops with shoemakers and beautiful jabalas being sewn with intricate embroidery by men sitting in shops tucked into the alleys. There were fruit stands, spices, fish mongers, butchers, men working on repairing small appliances, Jewelers, barbers, and basically a potpourri of everything and anything. Issmail stopped to purchase dates stuffed with walnuts which were delicious.. so sweet. Walnuts, almonds, and dates are grown in Morocco.

We smelled bread baking and Issmail took us to the community ovens where residents of the city bring their dough and for a small fee, it is baked for them. While we were there, we sampled some delicious bread, probably from a restaurant order. And the baker doesn’t just bake the bread for the people. A woman walked in with sweet potatoes and those will be baked for her as well.

Tetouan is in close proximity of the Spanish city Ceuta, and residents of Tetouan do not need a visa to enter there. Human rights groups have become involved in trying to stop women, who are called “mules”, from being used to carry heavy loads… Up to 60 kilos on their backs, of contraband across the border from the Spanish to Morocco. It is a sad situation and hopefully will one day be rectified.

Cannabis grows in northern Morocco and although it is illegal, it is sometimes tolerated. (And by the way, Chefchaouen Provence is the largest producer of cannabis in the world.) Some Moroccans want cannabis legalized because it will create jobs and can be used for medicinal purposes. Others feel that too many young men are addicted to it and this stifles their motivation to work. Also… According to the Koran, anything that affects the mind is forbidden, so that is a reason not to legalize it.

Tetouan is a very safe city although a tourist security officer accompanied us along our almost two hour walk to make sure no one pestered us into buying goods, etc. In Chefchaouen, trying to cross the street was a challenge. The cars didn’t stop even when you had the green walking sign. When walking, you must boldly enter the street, and slowly keep walking. The cars and motorbikes will usually come to a halt. In Tetouan, it is much more civilized and people let you cross without any problems.

We visited Espacio Sidi Al Mandri where 14 to 17 year olds, both male and female, are taught life skills in the arts, such as woodworking, intricate painting, graphic design, inlay, and plaster carving, among other crafts. They are taught these skills so that hopefully, the artisan skills will be passed down through the generations. The kids were hard at work and they seemed very happy in what they were doing. They created some beautiful pieces and have won awards for them.

We then drove to the seaside and had a lunch of eggplant caponata, shrimp, calamari, sea bass, and sole and dined while gazing at the Mediterranean. I enjoyed everything but the fish…too many bones. Yuck!!

We went down to the beach area which definitely wasn’t like the beaches we are used to. The sand was dingy and looked more like dirt than sand.

We rode back to our riad through the Rif mountains which was a breathtaking experience. The mountains, the fertile plains, the magnificent crevices, all made for a truly remarkable ride back to Chefchaouen. The pictures tell it all. Joyce, Stuart, Issmail, Allan and I walked into the square and had
dinner in a Moroccan restaurant. We had to climb 4 flights of stairs to get up to the roof top to watch the
sun set while we dined. I had beef kebobs and vegetables over rice.
Delicious!

16 Oct 2019 Tangier Fredj Hotel

We started our day with a bus ride to Tangier. Tangier was founded originally by the Phoenician colony and has since had many cultures Morocco influencing its history. The Moroccan king, Mohammed VI, has a palace in Tangier and spends most of the summer at this palace overlooking the sea.

Tangier had been noted as a safe haven for spies (who knew) and has been the venue for spy films like Man from U.N.C.L.E. and the James Bond movie SPECTRE. It is a beautiful city that overlooks the sea, with buildings and hotels; a paradise for the wealthy to live in and a wonderful place for everyone else to visit. Its bustling streets, active port, and railroad lines makes it the second most important industrial center after Casablanca.
It relies heavily on tourism and we could see hotels being built all along the coast.

Tangier is the gateway to Europe and also guards the Rock of Gibraltar. We stopped at an overlook to view the rock in all its glory. It was a beautiful day and we were able to see Gibraltar clearly. Gibraltar is in-between Morocco and Spain and is a British overseas territory. Interestingly, contrary to popular belief, Gibraltar is a peninsula off Spain and not an island.

Along the way to Tangier we stopped to see the huge nests that were built by storks and the birds were sitting in them high above the ground. The storks do not pair for life, but both members of the pair build a large stick nest that may be used for several years. It is beautifully crafted. Chicks are usually hatched in the spring. I didn’t see any blue or pink ribbons hanging from the nests, so I guess they weren’t delivering any human babies in the near future.

We had lunch at a Moroccan restaurant and I had soup and lamb patties.

The Atlantic ocean and the Mediterranean sea meet each other at Cape Spartel, and we stopped to see the place where they actually meet. It was wonderful to be overlooking the bodies of water and enjoying the sea breeze and the sunshine.

We went on to Hercules Grotto which is a huge cave. The cave has two openings, one to sea and one to land. The sea opening is known as “The Map of Africa” because it resembles the shape of that continent. The waves thunder into the sea side and make for a pretty impressive display.

After that, we drove to our hotel which is very beautiful. Our room overlooks the sea and we have a balcony, where we enjoyed a glass of wine. Everyone went on a short orientation walk around the city before dinner, but I stayed in because I’m unfortunately getting a head cold.

Dinner was at the hotel… Wine, chicken paella, and lime tart. Tomorrow we tour Tangier and then take the train to Rabat to start the main tour and meet the rest of our tour group.

17 Oct 2019 Tangier to Rabat Hotel Le Dawliz

This morning after breakfast we walked to the Bab Haha gate, the entrance to the Kasbah. While strolling along, we came across the famous 17th century palace, the Dar el-Makhzen or Sultanate Palace which is a historical building and museum. It was the seat of residence for the Sultans of Morocco when staying in the city. We continued on our way to see the views of the Atlantic and Mediterranean Sea at the hilltop.

From there, we walked thru a Medina, bustling with artisans and shop keepers. A man was sitting making little animals out of leather; beautifully handcrafted creatures so of course I had to buy some. He was so thankful and, as is custom, he bowed his head and put his hand to his heart as a thank you, and I returned the gesture.

You can’t get lost as you walk along, as long as you keep walking up hill, you will soon find an exit. We kept walking and passed by vegetable stands with the freshest produce I’ve ever seen. Then we passed butchers with their meat on display. Gorgeous cuts of beef, lamb, and chicken. They do not sell pork (although we did get bacon in the morning for breakfast.)

A man was selling prickly pears for 2 dirham and I just had to try them so Issmail and I indulged. The pears grow wild all over the countryside. They are sweet and very juicy but they have a lot of seeds. I enjoyed the fruit… But not the seeds.

Then it was a walk into the fish area which was a huge room filled on every table with every kind of fish you could imagine. There wasn’t a fishy smell since the fish are fresh every day. Issmail says that by the end of the day, all of the fish in the huge room would be gone, and tomorrow the room would be filled again! Amazing!!

We then visited the Tangier American Legation Institute for Moroccan Studies, TALIM. As I mentioned on the first day, Morocco was the first country to recognize Morocco American Independence. From the pamphlet we received at the museum….”In 1821, the Sultan of Morocco gave the US a building in the medina of Tangier… The Legation. As America’s oldest diplomatic property, the Legation stands as the only US Historic Landmark overseas.”

Today, the institute is a cultural center and museum as well as a conference center. According to the institute’s website, “Saved from destruction in 1976 by a small but dedicated group of diplomats and academics, TALIM now operates with a locally-hired staff under the leadership of its director, John Davison. TALIM has expanded its medina women’s Arabic literacy community service programming to include day camps for medina children and STEM English language scholarships for medina middle school students.”

After touring the museum we went back to our hotel and boarded our van which took us to the train station where we had lunch. We had delicious chicken sandwiches with french fries and there was a Starbucks there where I finally was able to get a cup of decaf coffee. Decaf coffee is apparently unheard of in all the cities we’ve been in; no one offers it.

We boarded a high speed train to Rabat the capital of Morocco, and everyone boarded in an orderly fashion. We had assigned seats and the ride was very nice. A Muslim woman sat next to me and offered Allan, Sally, and me potato chips as we were all sitting together. When we left the train, she told me I had beautiful eyes. Awwww shucks.

After a quick van ride, we arrived at our hotel and enjoyed sitting on the balcony before dinner watching the sunset.

The folks who didn’t do the pre-trip with us, flew in this afternoon so we all met and had dinner together. They come from all over the country… New Mexico, Massachusetts, California, Montana, Pennsylvania, and they all seem like a lot of fun. I think we will get along great! Looking forward to the start of our main program.

18 Oct 2019 Rabat

After breakfast, we had an orientation meeting and everyone went around the room and introduced themselves. We then embarked on a full day of touring in Rabat. Rabat is the city capital of Morocco and lies across the Bou Regreg river from Sale. We boarded a tram which took us to a few famous museums. A few of us decided to eat lunch first, but because it took so long to be served, we missed the opportunity to visit any museum. We boarded the bus which took us to our first destination of the day – Chellah, which is a medieval city buried in

the heart of Rabat. Chellah was inhabited by the Phoenicians and the Carthaginians and abandoned in 1154. It was amazing to walk among the ruins trying to imagine what life was like in those ancient times.

Hassan Tower and tomb was our next stop. The tower was supposed to be the largest minaret in the world, commissioned by al-Mansur, but when he died in 1199, construction ceased. Royal soldiers on horses guarded the gates as we walked into the plaza. Across the plaza from the tower is the tomb of King Mohammed V and his two sons, King Hassan II and Prince Abdallah. A reader of the Koran was present and we listened to him chant during our visit.

The ceiling in the mausoleum is magnificent with intricate carvings, gold leaf, and stained glass. You can walk around the perimeter on the balcony and overlook the tombs. It is a beautiful place and the tower and mausoleum were granted World Heritage status in 2012.

We then went to the Kasbah, which was also granted World Heritage Status in 2012. Today, we were able to see the Atlantic ocean, the Bou Regreg river, and nearby Sale as we stood overlooking the waters. It was a glorious day, with the sunshine and the sea winds all around us. We stopped for a cup of mint tea and were treated to delicious pastries while we sat in the shade and had a little respite from all the touring. There are famous gardens at the site, but because of the drought and the time of year, they weren’t in bloom. We walked through the neighborhood, apparently known for the blue and white walls of the buildings, but it was nothing like what we experienced in Chefchaouen.

Morocco

We did some shopping at the market, mainly buying wine to get us through the next 5 days as we will be entering cities where you cannot purchase liquor.

We got ready for the welcome dinner at Dinarjat, which was unbelievable! Dinarjat is an old mansion styled riad that is over two hundred years old. It became a restaurant thirty years ago. Our bus dropped us off at an alleyway, and we were met by a guide in traditional costume who led us by lamplight to the restaurant through winding alleys. We arrived at the door, the guide knocked softly, and we were ushered into a different world. The colors, the smells, the vibrant music all was a delight to our senses. The ceiling opened up to the starry night, and we dined on traditional Moroccan appetizers and entrees, while listening to men playing instruments and singing. I don’t know what the different dishes were that we were served, but altogether, it was a gastronomical feast. Dessert was a delicious… Jawhara. Jawhara is the Arabic word for gem, and that is what this dessert was. It is also called milk pastilla, and here are the ingredients: filo pastry, almonds, sugar, semi-skimmed milk, cornflour, and orange blossom water. It is very rich, and has an interesting taste.

Issmail started dancing to the music so of course I had to join in. Sally and I both were dancing and had a great time.

What a day! It was filled with history, beautiful colors, craftsmanship, and gastronomic delights! Who could ask for more?

19 Oct 2019 Fes Riad Salam Fes

The king of Morocco, Mohammed VI, has a boy and a girl and the boy will succeed him as king. Morocco does not have queens. Things have improved with the reign of Mohammed VI and he seems very willing to make improvements based on his people’s needs. Only about 30% of the population vote because there is a high illiteracy rate. The king has legislative power and some people like him… Others don’t. After demonstrations that have taken place, the king has made changes. Religion and government are one and not separated like in the US.

After breakfast we set out by bus to Fes, where we will spend the next 3 nights. On the way we passed cork trees and the cork is harvested from the bottom of the trees. Agriculture is the main sector of the economy which has been helped by improved irrigation from the building of dams. There are also wind farms that have been built to aid in farming. Small farmers do not pay taxes. There are natural resources as well, most importantly, phosphate. Morocco is the largest producer of phosphate in the world. It is used primarily for fertilizer. Morocco imports coffee, tea, sugar, wheat and barley. There has been a drought as of late and people are praying for rain. In some parts, rain dances are a common phenomenon because the rain is so needed for farming to survive.

On our way to Fes, we stopped at a village and entered the Farmer’s market. What a fiesta of color! The vegetables went on for rows and rows and Moroccans were buying everything by the kilo. From the fiery red tomatoes, to the indigo eggplants, to the bright orange carrots, and the gorgeous green peppers, it was a colorfest for the eyes. The farmers market was under blankets and sheets, which dip down into the aisles so you had to duck as you walked through. Issmail purchased bananas, Pomegranates, nuts, and some other items which he will share with the group. We enjoyed the bananas on the bus.

We arrived in Fes, a bustling city, and walked the alleys to our riad. And what a riad it is. We were overwhelmed by the exotic beauty of our home to be for the next three days. It is magnificent. Our room is charming and the rooms are on balconies that overlook a beautiful courtyard. Fountains, colorful tiles, little niches with comfortable overstuffed chairs, and plants are everywhere and we were greeted with Moroccan whiskey (which is tea) along with Moroccan cookies.

We unpacked and 6 of us decided to go off to experience the hammam. Allan went with our guide and I went with four other ladies who have now become my BFF’S. We were all a little apprehensive as to what to expect. We entered the hammam and took off everything except our panties. Women of all shapes and sizes were getting undressed as well in one large room and from there we were escorted into the sauna area. It was hot and steamy and we found places against the wall to sit and rub ourselves all over with black soap while we waited for our turn with the attendant. I happened to sit by a Moroccan woman who spoke English and she guided me as to what to do next. She even shared her own poultice and oil with me and she even rubbed my back. When I left, I held her hand and said Salam alaikum which means peace be upon you and she said and also with you.

The heat opens the pores and after awhile, I went into a cooler room where the attendant made me lie down in her lap and she began to scrub me with a loofa mitt. I just relaxed in her arms and let her manipulate me as she scrubbed the dead skin away. At one point, I was lying on the tile floor face down as she scoured my back and legs.

She poured water over my head in buckets and then shampooed my hair. When she was done, more buckets of water were poured over me and then I was sent out to dry off and get dressed. The soap, shampoo, towel and the scrubbing and massage was paid for by OAT and our guide said it cost 100 Dirham per person… The equivalent of $10. I tipped my attendant and she hugged and kissed me. I can’t tell you how wonderful it was… And my skin is silky smooth. Allan had a great time as well in the men’s bath.

We came back to the riad and took a short walk through the Medina. We passed by the blue gate just as the sun was setting. The Medina was very crowded… Everyone was buying meat, vegetables, bread, olives, dates and nuts and again, it was a wonderful experience. There were live chickens waiting to be purchased. You choose your bird and come back in about an hour and the birds will be plucked and quartered for you to take home.

We had dinner at the riad, soup and bread, which was more than enough, and along with the wine, it was a lovely meal. We took the elevator to the roof and were astonished to see a gorgeous rooftop garden and lounge that was big enough for many people to sit on and enjoy. The breeze was blowing softly and we decided that Morocco tomorrow night would be where we should meet to enjoy the stars and some wine.

20 Oct 2019 Fes Riad Salam Fes

After breakfast we embarked on an all day tour of Fes with a local guide. We entered the Medina, which is a World Heritage Site, and walked through the Jewish section, called the mellah which means “salt spring”. We walked to the 17th century Ibn Danan synagogue which is no longer used as a synagogue, but is now a place for tourists to visit. The walls are Moroccan tile and a large cupboard holds the 17th century Torah scrolls. There was a large covered hole in the flooring where you could look down to see the mikva (ritual bath) in the basement. Traditionally, the mikva was used by both men and women to regain purity after certain events (childbirth and after a menstrual cycle for women) and the male and female used it separately before marriage. The hole in the floor above was for the parents to make sure the ritual was done correctly.

We continued on thru the streets and passed doors with the hand of Fatima on them which was there to divert the evil eye. Our guide told us that there are over 9000 alleyways in the Medina and cautioned us to be mindful of our belongings because pickpockets could target us. He told us to ignore anyone who approached us because many times they are drug addicts and if you encourage them and then keep walking, they could become violent. He also warned us to be aware if a voice calls “watch out” because a wagon could be barreling down the alley right in our path. You would think after hearing all of this we would have said “see ya” and turned around to reboard the bus, but bravely, we kept pace with our guide and soldiered on, even when the Morocco alleys became very narrow and sometimes, we had to duck our heads.

We saw women peeling vegetables and packaging them and our guide said that working women will drop their veggies off in the morning to these stands, to be peeled and sliced, and then will pick them up later to take home to cook, saving them prep time. We also met a lady making phyllo dough by rolling the dough out on an oiled table and then placing it on a large ball that she had just put a flame to. The phyllo dries out a bit and then it is removed and ready for use. We also passed by the copper market where beautiful copper pots were on display. There were also huge cauldrons and the guide told us they are rented to families who are preparing large quantities of food for special occasions. We asked how the renters carried these huge pots home and our guide said they took them home in donkey carts.

We then climbed up many stairs to a rooftop for some mint tea refreshment and then on to Al- Attarine Madrasa, an Islamic school that dates back to the 14th century. The courtyard and walls were beautiful tile mosaics with a fountain in the middle and it was a welcome respite from the bustle of the souks.

On our way to lunch we passed by Al Quaraouiyine Mosque, the oldest university in the world, built in 857 AD. We weren’t able to enter as only Muslims are allowed in.

We had a delicious Moroccan lunch, and then visited a tannery. The Chouara Tannery is one of the three tanneries in the city of Fez, and was built in the 11th century, and is the largest tannery in the city. We were given large sprigs of mint to hold under our noses to keep the smell at bay as we climbed the stairs to the roof to see the tannery below. The smell comes from pigeon droppings which are needed in the tanning process. The leather is first washed in limestone in washing machines and then the pigeon droppings are mixed with water in large vats and the leather is placed into those vats for 25 days. This makes the leather soft. Then the leather is placed in washing machines again and then placed in vats with white vinegar to take the smell of the pigeon poop out. The hides remain in those vats for a month. The leather is then dyed using poppies for the red color, cedar bark for brown, mint leaves for green, henna for orange, Rosemary for pink, and Saffron for yellow. We looked at the pocketbooks and jackets. I wanted to purchase a jacket, but the styles and the fit just wasn’t what I was hoping for. I also felt the salesman was pressuring me and I just didn’t want to be rushed.

Next we visited a pottery shop where all the items are hand painted. They were beautiful, but getting them home would be a task, so we didn’t purchase anything. We also visited a textile market where tablecloths and scarfs were all hand loomed. The scarves were made out of silk… Not from a worm but from the guava plant. The leaf of the plant is sliced and the strings that are inside the leaf are wound into silken thread that is used to manufacture the textile. Beautiful workmanship.

Tonight, we were treated to a home- hosted dinner. Our group of 16 broke up into three smaller groups and my group visited with Mohammed and his family. His wife had polio at the age of 4, and had a bit of difficulty getting around. Mohammed told us about his life as a farmer years ago and also how he now is in the real estate business. Business is slow because of the drought Morocco has been experiencing these past years. We all told about our lives and families and then we sat down to cauliflower, olives, and lamb tangine. We talked all thru dinner and for dessert we were served flan.

Their daughter came home and we chatted with her for awhile. She just graduated with a degree in economics and is currently interning for a firm.

It was time to leave and Mohammed walked us to our bus to meet the rest of the group. On the way, Mohammed shared with Allan that while all of us were telling about our families, and of course Allan and I mentioned our four boys and grandchildren, his wife had tears in her eyes. This is because there 14 year old son died 3 months ago after having surgery. I was so affected by this, I started to cry as I said goodbye to Mohammed and we hugged. I was still crying when I boarded the bus. I’m sure their grief was raw as they listened to all of us tell about our children, not knowing that they had just had such a monumental sadness in their lives. Issmail said he didn’t know that they had lost their son, otherwise he would have told us before we visited the family. He felt very badly too.

It was a very sad ending to our day, and I pray that the family gets peace in the days and years to come.

21 Oct 2019 Meknes

Forgot to mention yesterday…We were told to say la la meaning “no” when the merchants approach us and walk with us trying to entice us to purchase something. A little boy was following Allan and kept insisting Allan purchase his wares. Allan kept saying la la… And finally, before the kid walked away he said “la la yourself!!!”. Too funny.

Today we took an optional tour to Volubilis to see the ruins and Meknes to see the stables.

Volubilis dates back to the 2nd century BC. The ruins remained intact until they were devastated by an earthquake in the mid-18th century. In the 19th century the site was definitely identified as that of the ancient city Volubilis. Today it is a UNESCO World Heritage site, listed for being “an exceptionally well preserved example of a large Roman colonial town on the fringes of the Empire.” The ruins were Morocco

magnificent and we walked the Decumanus Maximus, or main street, and saw the baths (which were fed by an aqueduct), the Basilica, and the Capitoline.

During the Roman times, Volubilis was a huge producer of olive oil. We saw where the olive presses probably were and where the oil was stored in stone. There was beautiful Mosaic tile floors, basically still in tact, except where Christians and Muslims removed the tiles that depicted nudity.

We had lunch in Moroccan restaurant. The woodwork and ceilings were adorned with carved plaster trim that had been carefully painted to show off the intricate carvings. The lunch was a selection of Moroccan appetizers and the main course was beef and chicken kabobs with vegetables. After lunch we drove to Meknes to see the Royal stables built by sultan Moulay Ismail. He was considered a harsh ruler and it is said he pillaged Volubilis for its marble to build his palace although most of the palace was destroyed by a 1755 earthquake. Ismail was known for his love of horses and he built stabling for 12,000 of his Royal horses and each horse had its own groom and slave to care for it. The walls of the stables were thick to keep the stables at a comfortable temperature no matter the season and there was an aqueduct that ran under the stables to provide fresh water.

The rows of stables was an architectural feat as they are placed at specific angles to give the stable masters the best view of as many horses as possible. The ceilings were destroyed in the earthquake but we were able to walk where the stables were and appreciate the mathematical ingenuity of the builder. Next to the stables was where the enormous grainary was located which also was an amazing edifice with thick walls and high ceilings which kept the grain cool in summer and winter. The grainary was large enough to store grain for the 12,000 horses for 20 years.

We went back to our riad and listened to professor Moha Ennaji speak about Women’s Rights in Morocco. We went to dinner and dined on chicken pastilas which were absolutely delicious.

Early to bed as we have a long day tomorrow as we will be traveling over the mountains to the desert.

22 Oct 2019 Atlas mountains

We traveled over the Atlas mountains today, experiencing so many beautiful vistas from snow on the mountain tops, to beautiful plains. Also saw what could pass for the Grand Canyon, with cliffs and gorgeous colors. We started out with warm temperatures but as we made our way deeper into the mountains, the temperature dropped dramatically, and it began to snow.

We saw Barbary macaque monkeys in their natural habitat. We were told not to feed them, but you could buy peanuts to feed them if you wanted. The monkeys were not afraid and didn’t scamper away.

Traveling further, Issmail stopped to ask a villager if he would talk to us and tell about his life, but he said no. We drove on and another villager was on a donkey and Issmail asked her if she would speak with us and she said yes. Issmail translated… She was getting water for her family from a well. She filled huge jugs that were on the donkey, with the water. The donkey almost collapsed at one point with the weight. She was smiling and happy to chat with Issmail while she filled the jugs. It’s a hard life as she had to travel quite a ways just to get water.

We traveled on, the road was windy with hair-pin turns and at some points, it was like the Amalfi coast with huge drops over the side, and not much protection from careening over, but our driver was very skilled and kept us safe.

After a nine hour drive, we arrived at our beautiful hotel. It was like a hacienda in Mexico… And we had a delicious buffet dinner with everything you could imagine… Even pizza.

Went to bed and actually slept for nine hours. Wowser!!!

23 Oct 2019 Desert Musee des Oasis

We started the day at our hotel with a delicious buffet breakfast and then started our journey into the desert.

Our first stop was a fossil place that excavates fossils to make into tables, art work, and small items such as plates and jewelry. It was so interesting to see the 600 million year old fossils that have been excavated and sliced into surfaces that now become works of art. I bought a beautiful plate with fossils and some very pretty jewelry.

After that we had tea with a local villager who lives in a small complex. About 15 families live in the complex and the woman lives in what once was as beautiful home, but half of the home is now collapsing. The part where she entertained us had high ceilings and thick walls which helped to keep the room pleasantly cool. She lives with her daughter who is 16. They are waiting for money from the government to start renovations. Since her husband worked for the military before he died, she is entitled to money from the government. (Farmers, who obviously do not work for the government, do not ever qualify for any money.)

We vacated our bus and boarded 4 wheel drive vehicles to cross into the desert to our campsite. What a ride! The desert is vast and we could see the sand dunes in the distance. We traveled on a road built by the military which, after awhile, we left to travel onto sand and stone and most times, just deep sand. The 4×4 navigated the ruts and sand hills beautifully, but at times it felt like we were on ice as we skidded all over the hills.

After about an hour’s ride, we arrived at our camp. The tents were lined up with space in-between and a stone path led the way to each door. We walked in and were so surprised to see the spaciousness. Inside the tent we have our own toilet as well as a shower that was large enough for two. The bed was swathed in lace and looked very inviting. The windows opened to let in the breeze and there were two arm chairs to relax in. The entire setting…very romantic!

We dropped off our knapsacks and climbed back in the 4×4’s to visit a nomad family who live in the desert. We had tea with them and they showed us how they bake bread each day, and we learned how they get their water. They go into the market once a week for their needs. The children lived with their mom, grandfather and grandmother and were friendly even though they didn’t speak English. I shared some Hershey kisses with the family, but the grandmother could not eat them because she is a diabetic. Diabetes is common in Morocco, probably because of the huge amount of sugar that they consume daily.

As we were about to leave the family, the little girl spotted some strangers walking towards their home. We waited to see what they wanted and found out that their car was stuck in the sand. We climbed into the 4×4’s and went off to rescue them. All the drivers helped to push them out and they got stuck yet again. A rope was tied to the chassis of one of the 4×4’s and to the stuck vehicle, and finally they were on their way. They didn’t have a 4×4 and our driver couldn’t believe they ventured out into the desert with a two wheel drive vehicle. We hope they didn’t get stuck again. The desert gets cold at night, and they didn’t look like they were very prepared.

We rode back to our campsite and climbed the dunes to watch the sunset. I climbed 3/4’s of the way up and Allan climbed to the top. He was one of two that actually made the climb! I took off my shoes and climbed barefoot. The sand felt delicious on my toes. The view was amazing and the sunset breathtaking.

After a delicious dinner, Issmail took us outside under the starry sky and pointed out constellations with a laser pointer.

We slowly walked to our tents to turn in for the night. We can’t believe we are in this glorious country with so many opportunities for learning and discovering. It’s a beautiful thing.

24 Oct 2019 Desert

This morning we woke up before sunrise to watch the sun make it’s debut over the sands. It was quite beautiful with the quiet enveloping us as we stood to appreciate another day about to begin.

I didn’t sleep well last night… Not because the bed wasn’t cozy warm, because it was, but because of the distant drums from two villages or camps answering one another. The rhythmic beating you would think would lull you to sleep, but alas, not for me. The camp did get chilly after sunset but we were very warm underneath the covers on our bed.

We woke up to a delicious breakfast in the camp dining hall and tasted barley porridge. It was wonderful! I really have to look for the recipe when I get home.

Our first excursion this morning was camel riding. What an experience THAT was!!! When the first lady in our group mounted the camel and I saw the camel lunge forward and then back, I realized two things: 1. Camels are really, really tall. 2. They stand with the rider perched precariously and clinging to the saddle. I was starting to have second thoughts about my decision to cross the desert on one of these beasts… And then it was my turn. I was praying the name of my camel wasn’t Spitfire as I threw my leg over, grabbed the handle, leaned backwards as instructed and… All went fine. The camel stood and I went back and then forward and before I knew it we were off on our hour long ride.

It was wonderful. It was a little tricky going down hill in the sand dunes… You really had to hold on tight… And also when my camel decided to rub his nose onto Allan’s leg as he walked, that was a little disconcerting (particularly for Allan), but other than that it was amazing.

After the camel ride we boarded the 4×4’s and went to visit a farm where the farmer grew many vegetables and also planted date trees. He explained the process of pollination to make sure that he gets female date trees to bear the fruit. He takes a bunch of female branches, takes a male branch that has pollen dust and tucks it inside the female branches. He ties them together and climbs the tree, and places it high. Soon, a date will grow and he plants the seed to grow another tree thereby assuring it will be female and fruit producing.

He also designed an intricate irrigation system which he was able to control by turning on and off valves throughout his farm. He was able to obtain both fresh water for his consumption as well as mixing the fresh water with saltier water to irritate the crops and feed the livestock.

They bake fresh bread every day and he shared a loaf with us, that had just come piping hot out of the oven. Delicious!

From there we visited a man who was an expert in music, particularly gnawa. He played and sang for us while we enjoyed a cup of tea and then we went into the next room and were entertained by dancers and musicians. Most of us joined in the dancing and it was so much fun.

Back to the camp for lunch and then 4 of us went fossil hunting. I sat up front in the 4×4 as we flew across the desert, skidding down the sand dunes and crunching over the rocks till we arrived at the fossil area. We were able to find many fossils with the help of our guide. He showed us how to pour water over the rocks to see if a fossil was embedded inside. We found prehistoric rocks that had beautifully preserved fossils from all kinds of creatures such as trilobites and orthoceras (a kind of squid-like nautilus covered by a cone-shaped shell). It was amazing to be able to find these fossils from millions of years ago. I went back to the camp with my pockets stuffed with my finds, to bring back for the grandkids.

We had a delicious dinner and then it was off to bed after a very full and fabulous day!

25 Oct 2019 Ouarzazate Kasbah Ben Moro

I forgot to mention that we had a cooking class on the desert. A lady showed us how to make chicken tagine. First, you wash the chicken in lemon and water and then after letting the chicken sit for a bit, you rinse and place it in the bottom of the tagine. You add salt, pepper, ginger, turmeric, pressed garlic cloves, about 1/2 cup vegetable oil and mix all together. Leave five minutes on the stove on low. Then you stack thick sticks of potatoes and carrots around the chicken. You add cauliflower and zucchini, tomatoes and preserved lemon slices. Also fresh parsley and cilantro. Add some saffron, cumin and a little more salt and 1 cup of water. Cover with the top of the tagine and simmer for about 40 minutes on low heat and keep checking to see if more water is needed. Enjoy!!

This morning after breakfast, we left our beautiful camp site in the desert and boarded our bus to Ouarzazate. On the way we stopped to see a series of underground aqueducts, originally constructed in the 11th century by tribes to provide water to the people and their crops and animals. It is no longer working although some of the wells are producing a little water still. The water came from the Atlas mountains and the wells were lined up as far as the eye could see. The guide took us down into the actual aqueduct and we walked along where the water had once flowed. I was able to go very deep inside to see the well opening looking up from below and continued walking into the next channel. It was a little eerie being down there and imagining the water rushing through years ago.

The guide was selling some trinkets and souvenirs and I saw a lovely bracelet. I asked how much and he said 350 Dirham. I got him down to 150 and he was reluctant to give me change from 200, pretending to ignore me. I finally got back 40 and he walked away. But I caught up with him and told him he still owed me 10 which he finally coughed up. Ha!

We then went to Tinejdad to visit El Kharbat. We stopped in to the school where we met preschoolers who high-fived us and then sang a rousing song. Our group decided to perform for them as well and sang Row Row Row your boat in a round. I think they were duly impressed as evidenced by the stunned look on their little faces. They either thought we were exceptionally talented or really pretty silly.

We walked through the Berber walled city from the mid 19th century, where people still live (and where the classroom was), but some apartments were abandoned. Issmail said the wood had termites and the place was in disrepair in spots.

We visited the museum where we learned about the history of the Berbers and saw the artifacts that they had used in their daily lives. It was extremely interesting and you would never know that this treasure of a museum was tucked inside this walled city.

There was an exhibit on herbs and what the Berbers used them for. One remedy was the henna plant that was useful in helping relieve infection and pain. We know it works as the Grandfather that we met the other day showed us his foot that had been healed by the application of henna.

We had lunch in the walled city as well.. delicious soup, omelet, veggies, and flan for dessert. When we used the rest room, one of the stalls had a squat toilet which no one wanted to use. A squat toilet is basically a porcelain hole in the ground. I used it as I had experience with them when I was in China. No problem. And I didn’t have to wait on line to pee since no one wanted to squat over the hole.

We then continued on through Rose town where there is a three day festival each year and a rose queen is chosen. We stopped to have a snack and then went outside where olive trees were growing. We saw olives ripening on the tree and were surprised to learn from Issmail that you can’t eat the olives right off the tree. First they have to be soaked in salt water for three weeks and then marinated. I never knew that. We picked some olives off the tree, squashed them and rubbed the oil that came out on our hands and face. It made my skin nice and soft.

Issmail told us that Ouarzazate was the setting for many movies such as Lawrence of Arabia and TV shows such as the third season of Game of Thrones.

We passed the Ouarzazate Solar Power Station, also called Noor (which is Arabic for light). It will be the world’s largest concentrated solar power plant when completed.

We arrived at our hotel… Which is beautiful. Our room is very posh and the grounds are gorgeous with seating tucked all throughout the gardens. We had a wonderful buffet dinner and now it’s bedtime.

26 Oct 2019 Ouarzazate Hotel Es Saada

Today was a day of discovery, learning, hands on activities, and exploration. After a buffet breakfast, we boarded our bus and traveled to visit Ait Benhaddou, a mountainside town. Along the way, we saw many places where movies have been filmed. Ouarzazate has had films such as The Man Who Would Be King and Jesus of Nazareth filmed on location there. We arrived at Ait Benhaddou, which is a village along a former caravan route between the Sahara desert and Marrakech. Many tourists visit this ancient village and there are a few families still living there. We were lucky to be able to visit one of them. The site has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1987.

We met a local guide named Mohammed. He was very good looking and we subsequently found out that he was in the fourth season of the TV show Game of Thrones. Someone pulled up the film and we scrolled through and there he was. Amazing! He said that when the first boy is born, he is usually named Mohammed, but it skips a generation because there was too many Mohammeds being named. He was the first boy and he says it’s not that great as he did not have the opportunity to attend school because it was expected that he help his father with whatever jobs the father deemed necessary. He regrets that he can’t write or read, but he learned to speak 5 different languages and can communicate in them fairly fluently. He said his daughter who is in kindergarten had been teaching him how to read and write, which he is very proud of.

We then met the village family and the father, mother, along with their daughters, took us through their home. We saw the bedrooms, the guest room, and the kitchen where they were preparing our lunch. The father works in the city some days as a mason and he also runs his farm and a small shop where the local women go to stock up on necessary items. The women don’t pay – the farmer logs their purchases into a ledger and when the husbands return from working jobs in the city, they pay the farmer for the goods. Many villagers are also extras in the many movies and TV shows filmed in the area.

We again saw a sugar cone, which is a gift that is usually given when visiting a neighbor for a special occasion. The cone is given because it is white and signifies peace and purity. The government sets the price on the cones and they are the same price all over Morocco.

We left the house and went to watch the mom stoke up the outside oven to bake bread. Mohammed asked for someone to help shape the dough, so of course I volunteered. I apparently did a good job because the mom asked Mohammed if I baked bread where I live because I seemed to know what to do. They don’t grow vegetables on the farm because the water for irrigation is salty. The neighbors mark their plots with stones to separate each other’s crops and the crops are rotated each year. There are olive trees on the farm and the father makes his own olive oil, which we enjoyed on the bread that we baked, while we sat in the backyard. Olives are 3 colors; green purple, and black. The best olive for oil and eating are the green ones. Every morning for breakfast the family has soup and then around 10, a second breakfast of homemade bread, olive oil and tea is consumed. In the village, there is only a primary school. To attend middle school, the kids must travel to it and for high school, they usually live away from home in dorms. After our tea, we learned how to make Adobe bricks from the mud cleaned out of the canals. The mud is combined with manure and hay, scooped into forms, patted down, the form removed, and the bricks dry in the sun. We then enjoyed a delicious lunch of homemade couscous, beef, and vegetables. We thoroughly enjoyed the opportunity to experience A Day in the Life with the family.

We then traveled to the Imik Smik Women’s Association for Rural Development, an OAT sponsored site through the Grand Circle foundation. The goal of the Grand Circle Foundation for the Association is to create workshops to teach girls and women how to make money, in a male dominant culture. These women obtain funds selling breads, cookies, and homemade couscous. They’re learning how to change their lives and those of young women in the community. There are now about 43 girls and women in the program and ages range from age 18 to 75. Some of the girls must work from home because their husbands or fathers won’t let them go into the Association to work. Grand Circle is building another building so that a kindergarten can be set up and teachers will be hired to teach. There will also be a kitchen for learning experiences and a coffee shop to raise funds. After the talk, we learned how to make couscous and then Allan and I volunteered to model the traditional Berber garb which was a lot of fun. We had dinner at Dimitri’s, known as the ‘hang out’ at one time for movie stars. We dined on duck confit. It was a fabulous day and a wonderful opportunity to meet the local people.

27 Oct 2019 Marrakech Le Carrefour

I forgot to mention that yesterday, all the ladies got henna tattoos. The tattoo will last about a week or so and then fade to a light orange color before disappearing completely. It was interesting to watch the Berber woman draw the intricate designs on our palms. Beautiful work.

Today we embarked on a journey through the High Atlas mountains to go to our final city in Morocco, Marrakesh. The scenery was breathtaking, as we made our way around hairpin curves and saw mountain formations high above us and mesa flat tops as well. We stopped at a lookout and had the opportunity to peer down into the deep valley below. No guide rails so we had to make sure when taking pictures not to step back one too many steps. Yikes!

Along the way we stopped at the Women’s Argan Cooperative where we were enlightened as to how argan oil is made. Argan oil is a plant oil produced from the kernels of the argan tree that is endemic to Morocco. Argan oil has many uses, mostly cosmetic, but it also can be drizzled on bread and pasta, and used as massage oil as well.

The fruit is first dried and then the pulp that is removed is fed to animals. The nut inside is cracked open by hand. Apparently, attempts to do this mechanically have not worked so Berber women do this task by hand – not an easy process. The nuts are then roasted and placed in a grinding stone to extract the oil and the mash that remains is made into soaps. The cosmetic oil is made the same way, but the nuts aren’t roasted.

I purchased the argan oil for my skin, so the next time you see me I will be glowing. I also purchased the black soap that I used in the hammam, a product of the argan nuts.

We continued our journey, and checked into our riad which is quite lovely with balconies that the rooms surround and an open courtyard. The birds soar past our room so must remember to close the windows.

We were served a delicious lunch at the upstairs patio restaurant, eggplant caponata and then grilled chicken kabobs and rice.

Then we went with Issmail to see the Town square and medina. Wowser! There were wall to wall people purchasing items and also selling blankets, clothing, shoes, pocketbooks…everything you could imagine. There were snake charmers, acrobats, boxers, musicians, peddlers walking around hawking their goods, kiosks selling escargot, sheep heads, and there were pick pockets. We had to be very cognizant of our surroundings because the size of the crowds, being a Sunday evening, was unbelievable. There was something to buy at every turn, but you couldn’t stop because if you showed any interest, the merchant would follow you trying to make the sale.

Issmail gave us olives to taste from a stand and then we all sat down at a kiosk and were served olives, eggplant, potato patties, and sautéed peppers. Then they brought out grilled meat… Beef and chicken in skewers with vegetables. Everything was absolutely delicious. We also have been spoiled eating pomegranate seeds which are so sweet and very tasty. Issmail purchases them from stands and we all get to enjoy them.

We walked back to our riad and went to the upstairs patio and drank wine with two of our friends. It was another wonderful day.

28 Oct 2019 Marrakech Medersa Ben Youssef

This morning after breakfast we met a local guide who took us to Bahia palace. The palace was built in the late 19th century. The name translates to “brilliance” and was meant to be the most beautiful palace of its time. It took 7 years to build and it is truly a remarkable work of art. It was built by Si Moussa Ba Ahmed for his personal use. The palace is divided into different rooms…quarters for his concubines, a school for his sons and daughters, a summer room, and a winter room. There was also a garden. The palace had sculpted and painted wooden ceilings, and the colors were still vibrant and beautiful.

From the palace we walked to the medina and saw the crafts on display all over. We went even further than yesterday, visiting the area where leather goods were created and sold and also where the blacksmiths were working creating beautiful art in metal. We passed by a stall selling herbs and potions, and the proprietor had tiny stingrays in a bowl that he said he would grind up to make a healing salve.

The medina is amazing with motorcycles and donkey carts flying by at breakneck speed right next to you. Many times we’d have to walk single file and plaster ourselves up against a wall to let them pass.

We took a ride in a totouk (which is what Issmail spelled for me but I couldn’t find in the dictionary). It is basically a motorcycle with a cart for 4 passengers on the back and we went to a local restaurant in it. The other cars and people were going by in close proximity to us through the narrow streets, and we thought for sure we would crash into something. It was like a scene out of The Adventures of Mr. Toad.

We had a delicious lunch…. Lamb sandwiches filled with almonds, prunes, and carmelized onions. Outstanding!!

Allan and I decided to visit El Badi Palace which took fifteen years to build, with construction finally completed around 1593. The original building is thought to have consisted of 360 richly decorated rooms, a courtyard and a central pool. The site also contained several stables and dungeons. Unfortunately, the palace was stripped of its treasures when a sultan used the decorations to festoon his own new palace. We walked thru the palace and also saw the gorgeously restored minbar that once stood in the Koutoubia Mosque. A beautiful work of art. We toured the museum and also went down into the prison area where many prisoners awaited their fate that was doled out by the king which sometimes meant arms or legs being severed.

We came back to our riad and met Issmail’s wife, SaraJane, who hails from South Carolina. They met when SaraJane was working for Whole Foods and was sent on a work exbitition to Morocco. Issmail was the guide. They fell in love and SaraJane moved to Morocco, not speaking the language or knowing anything about the culture. It is a beautiful love story, how they have made their marriage work and how SaraJane has learned the traditions of her husband’s family and has become enamored with the country.

We all climbed into a caleche, horse drawn carriage, to make our way to the restaurant where we had dinner. It was a wonderful ride as we passed through the new town in Marrakech, and saw some areas that were very upscale.

At dinner, we enjoyed talking with SaraJane as she told of how life is for her and Issmail now and the obstacles they both had to overcome. Issmail has been denied a visa to visit the US and SaraJane’s family, but they are hoping now that they are married, a visa will be forthcoming.

Dinner was delicious. Allan and I opted for a change from Moroccan fare and enjoyed beef tenderloin with potatoes and vegetables. The beef was served in a delicious sauce and was done to perfection. We are definitely eating our way through Morocco!!!

We took a car back to the riad, provided as a convenience by the restaurant, and a few of us went up to the terrace of the riad to drink wine and enjoy the night breezes.

29 Oct 2019 Marrakech

We were up very early this morning to be on the road to visit the Jardin Majorelle gardens. It is a very popular tourist site so by arriving early, we beat the crowds.

Marjorelle was a painter who purchased a large palm grove that became part of the gardens today. His artist’s studio was built and the walls were painted “Majorelle Blue” a gorgeous shade that we saw all over throughout the gardens. He brought different species of plants from all over the world and Incorporated them into the garden. The garden fell into neglect after his death in 1962.

.Enter Pierre Berge and Yves Saint Laurent who restored the gardens and added new plants. The beautiful Majorelle Blue was paired with an equally beautiful shade of green with splashes of bright yellow in the way of vases punctuated here and there. The effect was soothingly complimentary against the beauty of the garden.

After the death of Laurent, Pierre donated the garden to the Pierre Berge-Yves Saint Lauren foundation and the Jardin Majorelle foundation was started at that time. When Laurent died, his ashes were scattered throughout the lush foliage of the garden and a memorial to him was erected in the garden as well.

There was a temporary exhibit of the works of Jacques Azéma, depicting his view of Morocco which he artistically captured with paint and pencil on paper. There was one painting in particular that I loved – that of the women in the hammam. It shows the social aspect of the hammam, and was meaningful to the “hammama mamas”, what the group of us who went together to the hammam, named ourselves.

In 2011, the Berber museum was opened in the former painting studio of Marjorelle. We toured the museum, seeing artifacts from tribes throughout North Africa. There was pottery, woven baskets, and leather items, but the jewelry display was the most remarkable. Combinations of coral, amber, silver, and filigree made for some exquisite pieces. Unfortunately, we were not allowed to take pictures.

And then we entered the Yves Saint Laurent museum. I could have spent much more time gazing at Lauren’s gorgeous haute couture, each dress more stunning than the last with large bows, feathers, pleats, and ruffles. Some of the jackets and dresses were embellished with jewels that sparkled as the light danced on them. Again, sadly, we couldn’t take pictures.

We then walked through the Medina and had lunch Moroccan style. We climbed up a narrow staircase to the second floor of a street restaurant, and Issmail ordered roasted lamb and beef tangia.

Don’t confuse tangia with tagine. Tagine is cooked in a tagine vessel on top of the stove on a low flame. A tangia is cooking vessel as well as the actual food. The tangia is made of clay and after the pot is filled with meat, it is slow cooked in smoldering ashes (no flame) for hours with a little oil, water, and spices added. Many Moroccans drop off their own pots to local hammams and pick them up at the end of the day all cooked. The hammams are always burning wood for the sauna area, so the ashes serve the double purpose of cooking tangia pots. Tangia is often called “the bachelor’s meal” since working men can prepare this easily. It was delicious.

Issmail also ordered roasted lamb, which we all pulled apart with our fingers and dipped into a salt and cumin mixture to eat with bread. We also sopped up the juices from the tangia with the bread and it all made for a fantastic gastronomic delight. We wiped our hands with pieces of paper to get the grease off from pulling the lamb apart and then enjoyed hot mint tea, as the locals always do after a meal. Fabulous!!!!

This afternoon we listened to a woman who spoke to us about her life as a student at University and the challenges women face in the workforce. She is planning on starting a school to teach languages to students after she gets her training.

We went to a restaurant for the farewell dinner and enjoyed a feast of fingertip sandwich appetizers with screwdrivers, 5 different delights at the table to start the meal and then we were served Cornish hens and sides for dinner. The wine poured freely and we had a lovely evening.

30 Oct 2019 Casablanca

We left Marrakesh this morning and made our way back to Casablanca. We stopped at the Women’s Solidarity Association where unwed mothers live and are cared for with their babies. It is a source of livelihood and empowerment for these unwed single mothers.

A girl is condemned and rejected by her family if she becomes pregnant out of wedlock, and is forced to go out on her own to have the baby. She doesn’t have many choices so she has to decide if she wants to try to keep her baby or have an abortion. Abortion is illegal in Morocco except in cases of rape or if the health of the mother is at risk, or if the baby is not viable.

The founder of the association is encouraging mothers to stand up for themselves and she is trying to take away the stigma of a pregnancy out of wedlock. The girls learn how to earn a living by training in a hammam, and they learn to cook and bake. The association runs a bakery and a restaurant in different areas of the city. All this helps to give the girls a small income as well as psychological support. It’s very hard on the girls to be rejected by their families and we spoke with one young mother who said her family told her she could come back to the village, but not with the baby because the child would bring shame to the family.

This young mom opted to seek the help of the association right after her baby was born and she will be able to stay in the housing complex for three years, learning to take care of herself as well as her child. The association provides food and medical care as well.

Happily, the young girl told us that she recently visited her family and brought her child with her. The family refused to see the baby for three days, but then relented and now she visits them on occasion with the baby. The association is also working to get the fathers of these babies to recognize their child and offer financial support. It will take time as it is always the woman who is scorned and not the man.

We were served a delicious lunch…an assortment of appetizers and a vermicelli dish with peanuts, raisins, and chicken spiced with cinnamon and sugar.

We walked back to our bus dodging traffic, to visit the Hassan II Mosque. ( Just a side note on walking across streets in Morocco. The cars do not stop for you, so you must step into the street confidently in front of them and walk slowly in their path. Believe it or not… the cars and motorbikes eventually stop. Yikes!!!!)

The Hassan mosque is the largest mosque in Africa, and the 3rd largest in the world. It was completed in 1993, 6 years after the start of the project, which after seeing the enormous size of the building, seems unbelievable. The minaret is 60 stories high topped by a laser, the light from which is directed towards Mecca. The mosque overlooks the Atlantic ocean and the enormous ceiling inside is retractable. A maximum of 105,000 worshippers can gather for prayer: 25,000 inside the mosque hall and another 80,000 on the mosque’s outside grounds.

The interior has gorgeous chandeliers with marble and granite columns and carved woodwork. We had to take our shoes off to enter the main part of the mosque. Later, we went down to the ablution room where Muslims wash before going back to the main mosque to pray.

We checked into our hotel and met everyone for a final dinner together. The chef came out and greeted us and we ordered. I had the prawns and risotto and Allan had sea bass and both were delicious.

We said our farewells to everyone and wished them safe journey home. It was wonderful group and we all had a lot of fun together.

Tomorrow we leave for home. Salam alaikum…peace be with you.

31 Oct 2019 Casablanca

We’re at the airport and my passport was scrutinized before I was even able to get to passport control. Then at passport control Stuart and I were detained for quite some time as they kept looking at our passports and then doing something with the computer. After awhile we both were told to accompany a man in a suit. I was taken to a booth where three policemen were and they looked at me and told me to go. (I have that effect on people.) Stuart was told to go without having to enter a booth and we both walked back to get our passports from passport control where we waited a little longer. They finally stamped our passports and we left. Don’t know what that was all about but it was a little disconcerting. PS… Allan whizzed right thru. He chatted up the guy and voila… his passport was stamped.

Anyway, I wrote a poem yesterday and recited it on the bus over the microphone. It was a humble attempt on my part to sum up our fabulous trip and to let Issmail know how much we appreciated all he did for us and his kindness.

What a wonderful trip it has been Seeing Morocco from outside and in

With Issmail as our guide Who took everything all in his stride And charming us all with his boyish grin.

Some of us started in Chefchaouen you see A beautiful city I think you’d agree All the buildings in blue

We couldn’t get enough of the view Or our fill of that delicious mint tea.

We then traveled onward to Tangier A glorious seaside place this time of year
Where the Atlantic ocean merged With the Mediterranean Sea it converged

And we saw Gibraltar rock solid and so near.

To Casablanca then on to Rabat The weather was pleasant and not really hot
We toured Chellah garden

Getting an ear for the Moroccan jargon
It was a lovely and very peaceful spot.

In Fes some of us went to the hammam
A soothing experience that made us all calm
At first we were apprehensive
But the Moroccans gave us incentive
And now we’d go back to visit without a qualm.

We experienced the alleys so narrow
In the souks with the bustling wheelbarrows

Carrying prickly pears and meat Olives, spices, pomegranates, goats feet
And those motorbikes flying by like an arrow!

Next we went back in time
To the ruins of Volubilis- they were really sublime
And then on to Meknes
Those horse stables did impress
A mathematical feat it was in its prime.

The Atlas Mountains were beautiful to see
The contours and snow we didn’t foresee

Our driver was adept
Those hairpin turns we didn’t expect He navigated each one spectacularly.

And then we were standing on the desert
Viewing a sunset that was stunningly luminescent

The camels we rode
Their dexterity thru sand they showed
But hold on tight please when they make their descent.

We met preschoolers in El Kharbat We stopped in their classroom to have a little chat
They gave us high fives

And we sang to them (to their surprise)
And they in turn sang us a song they knew down pat.

In Ait Benhaddou we met a farmer who lived off the land
We made bread and bricks to understand

His way of life which is tough
But he seemed content with more than enough
With his wife and his children on hand.

In Imik Smik women were learning to be
Independent, self reliant and free By teaching other women skills

To help pay their bills
We’re proud of their determination you’ll agree

We passed farmlands where donkeys and goats roam
Where in the spring the vegetables are grown

In Essaouira we were amazed to see Ladies cracking nuts from the argan tree
And then grinding them into pure oil with a millstone.

Marrakech is a bustling town
In a totouk and a caleche we rode around
Bahia palace was awesome to tour It was a beautiful place to see that’s for sure
And Laurent’s museum… Would love to have taken home a glitzy gown.

Yallah yallah we’d hear Issmail implore
To move us along and get us out the door
He kept a schedule so tight

Morocco

On time for riads and campsite Never making us feel we were a chore.

Wonderful people, tagine, medinas, and smells
Home hosted visits, the fossils, and the hotels

The starry desert sky
The Atlas Mountains soaring up so high
So many memories, it’s hard to give our farewells.

But our trip has come to an end Issmail we think fondly of you as our friend
You are a kind, gentle soul

Your patience and sincerity we extol And I hope you enjoy this tribute to Morocco I have penned.