Amazon Rain Forest and Riverboat down the Amazon

September 3  Tuesday  Amazon Rain Forest  Riverboat down the Amazon

Accommodations: CEIBA TOPS LODGE, IQUITOS 

We learned during our ruins tour a few days ago that Lima gets only 0.8 inches of rain per year!!! How do the flowers that are blooming all around survive? Apparently, twice a day, a truck comes by with water and sprays the beds throughout the town. This differs greatly from the Amazon where it rains 250 days a year, so I’m pretty sure while we’re here, we will experience rain.

Last night since we weren’t very hungry, we had a small burger with a small fry at McDonald’s (of course) and then went back to the hotel. Just as we came in, a huge tour group arrived with lots of luggage. The two elevators are small and can really comfortably only hold two people with luggage. Allan said…We’ll be here all night waiting for the elevator. So he went over to the desk and asked if we could use the freight elevator. They said yes… and a man accompanied us in the freight elevator and off we went to our floor.

We were up very early to leave the hotel by 6:00 am to board the bus which took us to the airport for our flight to Iquitos. They provided a nice breakfast in the restaurant and they took our large suitcase to hold for us until we return from the Amazon.

A local guide met us in the lobby and walked us to the bus that drove us to the airport. She accompanied and guided us through getting boarding passes and checking our small suitcases. The luggage had to weigh 15 lbs or less, and we all passed the weight limit and off we went. We bid goodbye to the guide and went to find our gate for departure.

The airport was very crowded but we boarded rather quickly. We flew Latam… and it was a very nice flight.

When we arrived in Iquitos, we picked up our luggage, and met another guide, Caesar, as well as a bus driver, who drove us through the towns to the boat that we would sail along the Amazon in. We will then arrived at Ceiba (pronounced SAY bah) Tops Lodge. Caesar is a naturalist and will be our guide throughout the Amazon.

We drove through the towns along the way, taking in the sites and then we boarded our boat and headed for the hour ride to the lodge, cruising down the iconic Amazon.

The Amazon is two miles wide here and is said to be the longest river in the world… 2,010 miles. We saw many boats going up and down and some were carrying supplies for the town of Iquitos. A banana boat passed us and we could smell the sweet fragrance. Oil, logging, and tourism are the biggest industries at present in Iquitos.

We arrived at the lodge and went right away for lunch. I had the chicken and Allan had the dorado fish. A ceviche salad was served with mushrooms and palm hearts. Delicious! We had a juice made from purple corn – chicha morada – and we had a dessert like gelatin made from it as well. The chicha is highly nutritious and praised for its antioxidant properties.

After lunch we were able to go to our private lodge replete with a king bed, walk in shower, and a large bottle of water for drinking and to use for brushing our teeth. Caesar said we can fill our water bottles if need be at the restaurant where there is a huge cooler of fresh water. We also have WiFi in our cabin which is wonderful since WiFi is usually only at the restaurant. We brought electrolyte packets with us to add to our water bottles since we do expect to be sweating in the humidity quite a bit.

During lunch Caesar told us he lived as a child in a village on the Amazon and he had no electricity or running water. They actually drank from and bathed in the water from the Amazon River. Of course you have to be indoctrinated to that water from birth. If we took a drink, it would not bode well for us.

There are a few lodges throughout the Amazon, the brainchild of a man named Peter Jensen. He came one day to Caesar’s village and he met Caesar’s father who was a master carpenter. His father was hired by Peter to build the different lodges throughout the area. His father, however, did not build the lodge we are staying in.

After resting for a few hours, we met Caesar and he took us on a nature walk into the jungle. He said never go by ourselves, or try to follow any of the paths alone since the rainforest is very dangerous. There are many poisonous snakes. (Ummm… remember yesterday the guide said there haven’t been snakes in 20 years in the rainforest? Ha! Not true!) Caesar said there are many other dangerous creatures as well and we need to always be with him. He also said that the rainforest is their pharmacy as there are many medicinal plants around that are used to cure different ailments. Where he lived, there was a plant that was used to counteract the bite of a poisonous snake. If you got to it in time and drank the juice from the root and put a poultice made from the root onto the bite and changed the dressing and drank the juice every half hour, your chance of survival was excellent.

We saw beautiful flowers and listened to the parakeets that were in the trees. We didn’t see them however. But we did see some Tamarin monkeys high up in the treetops.

Then, once deep in the jungle, Caesar told us to keep walking but not to look up until he told us to because he has a big surprise for us. We walked into a clearing and he said look at me…now turn around… and open your eyes! WOW!!!!! We saw a HUGE Ceiba tree for which the lodge is actually named for. Ceiba trees are a unique natural wonder to behold. They grow up to 150 feet tall and can be hundreds of years old. The base was very huge with roots extending above ground. There were vines hanging down from the branches and all kinds of wildlife were tucked inside the foliage.
Caesar said people thought the tree, when touched, would bring good luck and ward off evil spirits. We took a photo op at the tree and then we each went over to touch the tree for luck.

While Allan was touching the tree, Caesar said excitedly.. oh wow… a poisonous red frog is crawling right where you are. I thought he was kidding and trying to scare Allan but no…. There really was a poisonous red dart frog. (And actually…we saw the same type frog when we were in the Baltimore aquarium. Yikes!!!) So I guess the tree did bring Allan luck since the frog didn’t bite him as it crawled past his hand.

No matter who we talk with, no one seems concerned about mosquitos. I’m not sure if they haven’t read that dengue fever is on the rise in Peru but no matter what, we’re still bathing ourselves in Sawyers. There is a pool here but we didn’t bring our suits to the Amazon. The thought of covering every inch of our bodies in insect spray is not that appealing to us.

We all met for a pre-dinner drink and then had a delicious dinner. It started off with a wonderful soup with dorado fish and pasta and I had chicken with spaghetti that was seasoned perfectly.

Early to bed since we are meeting at 5:55 am to take a boat along the Amazon for bird watching.
Buenos noches.

Red frog

Right before Caesar saw the poisonous frog

The Ceiba tree

Bar and where we eat our meals

Our boat taking us down the Amazon

Along the Amazon

Getting close to where our lodge is located.

Meeting the folks going to the Amazon with us

September 2 , Monday

We had a leisurely breakfast and while we were eating, we met one of the couples who will be going to the Amazon with us, Richard and Mary. We had a nice chat and then finished breakfast and went back to our room to pack for the Amazon. We can only take a small piece of luggage that weighs under 15 lbs but we can take our day pack and they won’t be weighing that. We don’t need to bring much water because apparently water will be provided in the Amazon for us.

At 11 am we met Sandra, our local guide, as well as the other couple that will be with us on the trip, Mary and Greg. Sandra gave us info about what to expect in the Amazon and then we went on a walking tour of Lima. Since Allan and I had done a lot of walking around yesterday, we were familiar with most of the area. Sandra took us to get some money exchanged, just in case we want to buy trinkets from the tribe in the Amazon since they are unfamiliar with anything but local money and would not take US dollars.

We walked along by the Pacific ocean which was very nice and stopped at Parque del Amor  (Park of Love), where stands the monument of El Beso (The Kiss), a statue of a man and a woman who are embraced and kissing. El Beso is the work of the Peruvian artist Victor Delfin. We then went off to have lunch at a local restaurant. Allan and I had scallops with parmesan for appetizers and then Allan had a seafood and rice dish and I had shredded chicken with rice and potatoes. We also had a nice Malbec with lunch. Dessert was ice cream for Allan and I had triple milk cake. The cake was very sweet and since I don’t usually eat dessert, I only tasted it.

Sandra bought some fruit from a vender in the street and the waiter cut it up for us to share. It was very good and very sweet. The name of the fruit is Chirimoya (Custard Apple in English) and it really does taste like custard.

The two couples went off to tour the ruins but since we had already visited them, Allan and I walked back to the hotel with Sandra. Sandra called another guide to ask about wearing boots in the Amazon because of the snakes and leeches. The man said snakes haven’t been a problem in twenty years. He also said we’ll get boots if it pours, but other than that, we will be fine. Good to know!

We leave tomorrow at 6 am for our 2 hour flight to the Amazon, so it will be an early night.

Chirimoya fruit

Love statue – The Kiss

Accomodation: Jose Antonio

Sightseeing in Lima, Peru

September 1  Sunday  United was wonderful with check-in for our flight yesterday. I don’t know if it was because it was a Saturday or because we had already pre-checked our luggage, but no lines and our checked bag was collected, put on the conveyer belt, and off we went for a nice lunch in the United lounge.

The flight was fine – Made it to Lima a little earlier than expected. We breezed through customs since a lady told us to go on the diplomats line which was very short. We must have looked important. LOL!

Our luggage arrived and some agent came over and said we needed to show her our luggage tags before we could leave. She didn’t ask anyone else to do so. I guess she didn’t realize we were “diplomats”. Anyway, we met our driver and he took us to the van for the trip to the hotel. While we were walking, men were following us closely…they didn’t realize at first we were with a driver and wanted to offer us rides. We were warned against this. One guy walked very close to us, but once he realized we were ignoring him and sticking close to our driver, he walked away.

We were trying to get out of the parking lot and after the gate arm lifted, we had to wait for someone to open the padlock on another gate so we could finally leave. Too funny.

The ride to the hotel was through a rather depressed looking area. However, even though it was around 10:30 at night, people were sitting outdoors or walking around and chatting with each other. I saw a few large commuter buses go by and they were filled with people. Wondered where they were going or coming from so late at night.

Right before we got to the hotel, we bumped along a cobblestone street for quite a ways. It really scrambled our brains!

Our hotel is nice and in a lovely neighborhood. Very clean and we received 8 complementary bottles of water from the front desk. You can’t drink the water in Peru so it is important to have a good supply of bottled water. If we buy water, we can only purchase in a reputable store since sometimes, in stores that are a bit unsavory, the bottles are filled with tap water and glued shut so you think they’re sealed.

Had a good night’s sleep and since we are only an hour difference from PA, no jet lag. Breakfast was okay… Minimal offerings but they did have an omelet station although Allan didn’t think the omelet he had was that great. I had a delicious slice of whole wheat that was much larger than a normal slice, and the crust was already removed! I toasted it and put cheese and scrambled eggs inside and made a sandwich. Very tasty. We should eat/drink dairy when we take our malaria pills and fortunately there is yogurt available.

We decided to walk around Lima and visit Huaca Pucllana, an archaeological site. On our way to the ruins, we passed a beautiful church and I used my minimal Spanish to inquire as to the name. The lady told me it was Inglesia Virgen Milagrosa, built around 1930. It is located at Parque Kennedy, a beautiful park with flowers blooming everywhere. There were also cats running around everywhere and the park has little houses for the cats to go into when the weather gets chilly. As we walked along we saw people on bikes, scooters, and skates, enjoying the beautiful Sunday morning.

We arrived at the ruins of Huaca Pucllana, which has been restored within the last 40 years and has become one of the main tourist attractions of Lima. It is built almost entirely by adobe bricks that were handmade and baked in the sun. The bricks are placed to withstand earthquakes, which was a pretty ingenuous feat considering that the site is over 1,000 years old. It stands 25 meters high and once stood as a pyramid. We were lucky that when we arrived, an English speaking guide was starting a tour and he took us all over the ruins, even climbing to the top. It was very interesting. As an aside, he told us to be prepared if you go from Lima to Cusco by plane (which we will be doing) because altitude sickness can be a problem. He said the most important thing to do, besides taking altitude sickness meds, is to take it easy and not try to begin touring right away. We’ll see how that goes.

There were some llamas and alpacas at the ruins and also a beautiful vegetable garden. I’m glad we decided to pay the ruins a visit and were lucky enough to get a great English speaking guide.

There was a restaurant right outside the ruins called Huaca Pucllana where we decided to have lunch and try some Peruvian fare. We each had a delicious pounded beef tenderloin with a fried egg on top. It was accompanied by fried plantains and a rice and beans pâté that the waiter poured olive oil over. We had a glass of wine and the whole meal, tip included came to $65 dollars! The tour was a total of $4 (we got the senior discount) so all in all, a bargain day.

I asked our waiter about mosquitos in Lima and he said no worries. There aren’t any to speak of. We told him we were going to the Peruvian Amazon and he said…Oh…be very careful! The mosquitoes are all over and carry dengue fever. Put lots of insect repellent on. We knew that, but to hear him say it so seriously was daunting. Well… No turning back now! We’ll just be very careful.

We got a little lost trying to get back to our hotel, but a kind man on a scooter helped us and we finally arrived back. We probably will have a bite to eat later and then it will be time for bed.

Inglesia Virgen Milagrosa   

Huaca Pucllana

Huaca Pucllana

Huaca Pucllana

Huaca Pucllana

One of the cat houses at Parque Kennedy

On our way to Peru and Ecuador

August 31 Saturday – Depart U.S. 

We’re off on another adventure…this time so South America touring Machu Picchu and the Galapagos.  We are also going on the pre-trip to the Peruvian Amazon but opted out of the Bolivia post-trip.

There are many biting bugs in the Peruvian Amazon and actually all throughout Peru and Ecuador, so we have taken typhoid pills for protection. We started taking malaria pills that we will take for the entire duration of the trip and then 7 days after our return. Since the altitude will be over 12,000 feet at times, we will be taking altitude sickness pills and since the Galapagos Humboldt current can cause a rocky cruise, we will also have scopolamine patches. YIKES!!!

It’s a little daunting…particularly since dengue fever is on the rise and there is no vaccine or pill to take for protection. We just hope that by wearing long sleeved shirts and long pants that have been treated with permethrin, as well as using picaridin insect spray, we will be protected. Fingers crossed. 

Allan recently read about an indigenous people that live along the Amazon that came out of the jungle in 2022, and, using a 6-foot arrow, killed a logger.  The loggers have been decimating the trees, and I guess the tribe said enough is enough. 

The good news is…we won’t be wielding machetes or chainsaws while we traverse the Amazon. The other good news is… we will be meeting an indigenous tribe on our itinerary… and they apparently will be teaching us how to use blow guns. Maybe we can take one with us…just in case we are confused along the way with loggers. LOL!

As always…please follow along on the blog. I hope to post every day but will not be posting on the ship in the Galapagos since we won’t have wifi.   

Accommodations:  JOSE ANTONIO, LIMA  

Leaving Auckland for home

Our flight was at 7:40 pm so we had the whole day to relax before the coach took us all to the airport.
We slept late and had a really nice breakfast and then went off to tour the Art Gallery.

There were some interesting works in the gallery…in particular, the collection donated by hedge-fund pioneer Julian Robertson, who developed a deep affection for New Zealand after taking a sabbatical there with his family in 1978.  His wife Josie and he donated their artwork to New Zealand because they were so impressed with the Māori children and how those kids were in awe of the paintings when they looked at them when they were first displayed. Julian and Josie felt they wanted to donate their collection where it would be appreciated. The donation comprises 15 works by famous artists…. Pierre Bonnard, Georges Braque, Paul Cezanne, Salvador Dalí, André Derain, Henri Fantin-Latour, Paul Gauguin, Fernand Léger, Henri Matisse, Piet Mondrian and Pablo Picasso. The collection also features paintings, prints, drawings, and sculpture. Allan knew of Julian since Julian was the keynote speaker in a morning financial conference years ago, and Allan was on a panel at the conference in the afternoon.

The Robertson’s lived in New York City in an apartment overlooking Central Park and the apartment had all of the art on display. One painting by Picasso was hung in the bathroom because his wife didn’t like it.

We had a quick bite to eat and then sat with the group in the hotel lobby till it was time to leave.

We said goodbye to our new friends amid tears and Allan and I boarded our Air New Zealand flight. Our new friend Debbie was also on this flight. The flight was extremely turbulent for hours with everything bouncing around. You could hardly eat or drink…the liquids were slurping over the rims of the glasses.

Around 10 pm after dinner was served, flight attendants came around and made up our beds. I have to say, the mattress they put down was the thickest and the most comfortable mattress I’ve ever had on a business class flight. I slept great.

In the morning they dismantled our beds and served breakfast and we arrived in Houston. Going through security and rechecking our bags for the flight to Newark was a breeze.

Unfortunately, our flight to Newark was delayed for over two hours so we didn’t take off until much later than planned. We finally arrived in Newark, but our luggage came on a different flight and was at a different terminal. Since our driver had been waiting for us for hours, we decided to have United send us our luggage and hopefully it will arrive today. We arrived home around 2:30 am and went right to bed.

It was the trip of a lifetime and we had so many adventures and first experiences. We will never forget Australia and New Zealand. It was a long trip…but so worth it. We did it all! See you for the next journey!

PS…Yesterday, our luggage arrived at Lehigh Valley International Airport and Allan and I went over and picked it up. YAY! And now…to do the laundry!!

Monet

My favorite in the collection

Auckland – Harbor Bridge – Bastion Point – Wintergarden

This is our last day on our month long trip through Australia and New Zealand. Tomorrow we fly home. Our hotel in Auckland is in the center of town and is quite lovely and the breakfast this morning was amazing! We’ve been very lucky that all of our hotels have been wonderful and the breakfasts, except for one hotel, have been excellent. But if truth be told, we do get some of the best rooms since we have traveled with Overseas Adventure Travel – Grand Circle so often.

We boarded our coach for a tour around the city, stopping first to see the Harbor Bridge. Before the bridge opened in 1959, the only way passenger vehicles could cross the harbor was by ferry which was a time consuming, expensive and thus became an infrequently made journey. Situated on the nation’s main artery (State Highway 1) more than a billion cars have travelled across the steel bridge since it was constructed.

As we traveled along, Catherine mentioned that prostitution in New Zealand is legal. There isn’t a red light district like in Amsterdam and there are no pimps. The ladies are called sex workers, they pay taxes, and usually work out of their homes.

We passed where New Zealand’s America’s Cup boat is being housed. There was a sneak peek offered to the public a few weeks ago, but for the most part, the design is a well kept secret until the race.

We passed Holy Trinity Cathedral where Sir Edmund Hillary was buried from. Sir Hillary was a mountaineer and an explorer and he and his Sherpa became the first climbers to have reached the summit of Mount Everest. He led an amazing life and Allan and I are members of the Sir Edmund Hillary club with Overseas Adventure Travel since we have travelled so often with them.

The next stop was to Bastion Point (you can google about its interesting history) and then on to Auckland Domain WinterGarden. The gardens were spectacular, with many gorgeous flowers that I have never seen. The display changes regularly within the glass houses, but the flowers blooming at this time were truly rare. One glass house is heated and shows lush tropical and heat-loving plants while the other house displays temperate plants changing with the seasons. There also is a fern area that is dense with different types of ferns and trees.

We went back to the hotel to spend an afternoon on our own before the Farewell Dinner tonight. Allan and I walked around since it was a lovely sunny day, after this morning’s sprinkle of rain.

At 5:30 we all took the ferry over to enjoy the Farewell Dinner. We had a lot of laughs and we were sorry that our time together is ending. You really get to know people very well, being with them every day for a month. It was a good group and we traveled well together.

We went back to the hotel and Catherine gave a recap of our time together. It’s amazing to realize all the wonderful adventures we had here in New Zealand. The country is beautiful with its volcanoes, glaciers, meadows, beaches, and of course the majestic mountains that were covered in snow.

Catherine gave each of us a little gift and a written award to go with it, highlighting something that we did that she remembered that she thought was great. Allan got shot glasses and his award read “The award for being able to say he actually fit in a hobbit’s house!” I received a lovely woven little bag and my award read “The award for being a wahine toa and making it through the nighttime tree walk!” Too funny! BTW… wahine toa means warrior woman. Yep…that’s me!!

Harbor Bridge

Building where the New Zealand’s America’s Cup boat is housed.

Bastion Point. Michael Savage Memorial

Where Sir Edmond Hillary was buried from.

One of the glass houses at the Wintergarden

Fern garden

The Arapuni Swing Bridge – Sanctuary Mountain – Auckland

Yesterday, we had a long drive to visit our last city on this fabulous tour, Auckland, the most populous city in New Zealand.

On the coach Catherine mentioned again over the microphone how proud she was that I overcame a fear and conquered the swing bridge in the Redwood Forest. Everyone cheered! I said, “I’m still recovering…but thank you!” Too funny.

Our first stop was the Arapuni Swing Bridge, (yes…a swing bridge) located not far from the Arapuni power station. It has a span of 499 feet and is 178 feet above the gorge. I went to the bridge to see if I could walk across it. Yeah…no!!! The bridge was bouncing, the view to the bottom was death defying, and I only went one foot on it and turned around. Allan did go partway out to take a quick photo. The bridge was built in the 1920’s to allow workers access to the power station construction site.

Our next stop was Sanctuary Mountain that has one of New Zealand’s largest fenced in eco-sanctuaries and one of the world’s longest pest-proof fences. It is the habitat of many endangered wildlife.

Our guide explained how the fence works to keep predators out of the forest so that the endangered wildlife will have a chance at survival. Xcluder is the factory that manufactures the fencing and after many trials, they built a fence that does not allow pests to jump over, climb over, dig under, or get through. Here are some fence facts that were on a sign at the Sanctuary:

  • The fence includes more than 850,000 staples, 50,000 battens, 8,500 three metre posts and 240km of high tensile wire
  • An electronic surveillance system operates 24 hours per day to detect fence breaches
  • The volunteer effort in maintaining the fence and monitoring pests involves more than 250 hours per month and the equivalent of 37 full time staff. If the fence has been breached, a volunteer is there within 90 minutes to catch the intruder.

The kiwi in the sanctuary were endangered at first, but now, the kiwi living in the forest have multiplied and the forest is now overpopulated with them. This year the sanctuary is going to have 300 kiwi moved to other conservation projects around the North Island. This is a world first in terms of scale and complexity.

Before we were allowed to enter the forest, we had to brush off our shoes and walk on a box that splashed water on the bottom of our shoes to clean them. Then only a few of us could go into a kind of cage-like area at a time. As we entered, we had to close the door before we opened the next door to enter the forest. This was so that pests outside the fence couldn’t sneak in with us.

Our guide was wonderful as we hiked through the forest with its gorgeous foliage, ferns, huge trees, and birds singing all throughout. Often our guide would pause and we all remained quiet so we could hear the chattering of the avian life. We heard kiwi as well as ruru, kaka, and many other bird calls. Our guide pointed out unusual mushrooms, fungi, berries, and told us about a tree (can’t remember the name) whose leaf can be used for toilet paper in the bush. Years ago, since the leaf has a whitish back, people used it as a postcard and mailed it, but the post office no longer allows that practice.

We had a nice lunch and then it was on the bus for the ride to Auckland. On the way, Catherine talked about the government in New Zealand and about taxes etc. People think New Zealand doesn’t have taxes, but that isn’t true. There’s something called a pay rate that goes for maintenance for the parks, rubbish collection, roads, etc. That tax is paid to the local government. The income tax is a separate tax that goes toward education and medical care.

Schools are rated 1-10 with 1 being in the poorest of the poor areas to 10 being the affluent areas. The lower number school gets subsidized by the government and the children get extra curricular schooling, breakfast and lunch programs, books and anything they need for the kids to succeed. The #10 schools… parents raise money on their own with fundraisers as they do not receive monies from the government. The money raised goes towards helping the kids study abroad, extracurricular activities, etc. Sadly, the #1 school kids have it tough and some just drop out because their parents are so poor, they don’t have the incentive to help their kids succeed.

Between 1970 and 1982, if a child had an accident or became incapacitated, the child was forcibly taken from the parents and put into a psychiatric facility, even if the child had no mental problems. The children were given shock treatments and were abused, and neither the parent nor the child had a voice. Catherine spoke from experience as her younger brother was hit by a car when he was 6. He was paralyzed on one side. The government took him and put him in a psych ward and he was given shock treatments. Visiting was very limited, so her parents were not able to do anything for him. Her brother died in the facility and now she is a member of a group that monitors asylums to make sure what happened years ago never happens again.

We passed a lot of cattle on the way and we noticed that some of the cattle had orange paint on their backsides. Catherine told us that the farmers castrate some of their bulls. They also paint the tails of the cows orange. This tail painting can be a reliable tool to tell when a cow is in heat. Even though the bull is castrated, he will still want to mount the cow and then the paint rubs off the cow telling the farmer she’s in heat. The farmer then paints that cow green…meaning she’s good to go and the farmer brings in a bull that hasn’t been castrated to do the job. Tail paint apparently is a tried, tested and proven method and one I had never heard of before.

We finally arrived in Auckland which is a very busy city. Lots of people and traffic. High priced stores like Bulgari, Patek Philippe, Dior, and many more. We took a short walk around and then went to a restaurant called Occidental for a delicious dinner of green-lipped mussels. Allan and I also enjoyed a dark stout beer.

Today we have a tour of the city by coach and we then have the rest of the day free to explore. Our Farewell Dinner will be tonight, so I will write about today’s happening later tonight.

BTW…regarding the kiwi, here is an interesting article you might like to read: https://www.1news.co.nz/2024/05/01/surreal-leonardo-dicaprio-praises-kiwi-conservation-group/

The gorge below

Sanctuary Mountain

Fungi like coral.

300 year old tree

The beautiful landscape outside the forest.

Auckland

Green-lipped mussels. Delicious!

Nice dark stout

Waimangu Volcanic Rift Valley – Rotomahana Lake – Hobbiton

I meant to mention that when we started our New Zealand tour, our guide Catherine gave us some fruit that grows in her garden. It’s called feijoas. The fruit is sweet and tart and is similar to the guava family, but I tasted pineapple in it. It was juicy and quite good.

Also, I spoke with Catherine about the Maori face tattooing and she said they really only do ink tattoos these days and do not do the face cutting anymore. First, it is a barbaric practice and second, the people who were doing it are no longer around to teach the practice. In Australia, the Aborigines still do it, but it is restricted to Arnhem Land.

By the way, all is fine with our hotel room. They fixed the heat and the temp is perfect.  Also, the weather has been amazing. We’ve had sunny days and beautiful autumn temps. It’s been a perfect time of year to be here. 

One of my favorite opera singers is Kiri Te Kanawa who was born in New Zealand to a Māori butcher. The butcher was already married, so Kiri was given up for adoption to a Ngati Maniapoto family. She was trained in operatic singing by a nun and went on to earn international acclaim. 

This morning we started our day visiting the Waimangu Volcanic Rift Valley, the world’s  youngest geothermal system. This hydrothermal system was created on June 10, 1886 by the volcanic eruption of Mount Tarawera. 7 small villages were lost and 105 lives were lost. All plant, bird and animal life were lost as well. 

The eruption affected Lake Roromahana and the area is now a major tourist attraction.  It contains Frying Pan Lake which is the largest hot spring in the world and Inferno Crater Lake, the largest geyser-like feature in the world although you can’t see the geyser since it is at the bottom if the lake. 

After the volcanic eruption, when everything was wiped out, the now native forest is the only New Zealand example of a re-establishing of vegetation without any human planting. It truly is remarkable. 

We hiked all through the area, sometimes walking on the edge of the crater. The foliage was magnificent and so amazing to know that Mother Nature did this all on her own without the help of humans planting the seeds.

After our hike we boarded a boat and cruised Lake Rotomahana (warm lake). This was once a very small lake but after the 1886 eruption of Mt. Tarawera, it became 20 times its original size, combining with Lake Rotomakariri (cold lake), thus becoming the regions deepest lake. 

There were Pink and White Terraces that were  natural formations once labeled the 8th Wonder of the World. People travelled from afar to New Zealand to see these amazing terraces that we now can only see in photos since they are below Lake Rotomahana. 

We cruised past the steaming cliffs where the hot springs are evident in the mountainside and we stayed in one area for a few minutes to witness a geyser spewing hot water and steam. The boat tour times it so we were able to be right in front of the geyser when it let go. It was pretty spectacular.

We had lunch and then some of us took a bus to visit the Hobbiton Movie set. 

Peter Jackson had looked for a perfect location for the Lord of the Rings films, and he found it during a helicopter flight as he searched the countryside in New Zealand for the ideal spot. He saw it when he flew over Alexander Farm, a 1,250 acre sheep farm. 

As the story goes, Jackson approached Mr Alexander with a knock on his door, but Mr. Alexander was watching a rugby game and wasn’t pleased with the interruption. Fortunately, it was just about half time, so the two men sat down and worked out the how-tos and wherewithals and a deal was made to use the farm for the filming. Mr Alexander had never read the novels, but I’m sure with the way the novels are timeless and Hobbiton is so popular, he is very happy he stopped viewing the rugby game to make the deal with Jackson.

After suitable negotiations, work commenced in transforming part of the farm into sets for Hobbiton and the other parts of Tolkien’s Shire. Heavy equipment was moved in by the New Zealand Army and 37 hobbit holes with gardens etc were created. 

It was a huge undertaking. Generators were installed, sewage had to be dealt with, and feeding of over 400 cast and crew had to be undertaken.  They even took all the apples off a huge apple tree on the farm and replaced it with fake plums so that the film was true to the story…since a plum tree was in the writings.  Also, during filming, the man-made pond became the home of some bull frogs and at times, the actors couldn’t hear each other because the frogs were so loud. The frogs had to be collected and relocated to another pond on the farm. 

The original set wasn’t built to last, but in 2010, the set was reconstructed to a permanent basis for the filming of The Hobbit: An Unexpected Journey, and Ian McKellen came back as Gandalf and was joined on location by Martin Freeman. 

There are now 44 hobbit holes on view although it is only possible to enter a few of them, all of which have small, unfinished, earth-walled interiors. The homes are built to one of three different scales. In addition to the smallest ones built to the correct size (hobbits are smaller than humans), some are built to a larger scale to make the hobbit actors appear smaller, and some have been constructed in a “dwarf” scale for scenes containing dwarves. Apart from a few exceptions, the color of the front door indicates the scale, for example hobbit holes with a blue door are built to the correct human size. 

It was so wonderful to walk around where the filming took place and listen as our guide told us all the little intricacies of the Shire. 

After the tour we stopped into the Green Dragon and had a beer. It was a magical afternoon. 

We had a delicious dinner and then it was off to bed since we have a big travel day tomorrow to Auckland. 


The Hobbit house was so much fun to go through. More pics below.

Peter Jackson said about the set… “It seems as if you could open the circular green door of Bag End and find Bilbo Baggins inside”.

Kiwi Hatchery – Māori Village – The Whakarewarewa Forest – Redwoods Night Lights

Well, for the first time, even though our room is brand new, there are bugs to be worked out. When we arrived, the heat was blasting and we couldn’t shut it off. We called maintenance last night and they came and apparently shut it off. So all through the night, we had no heat since if we turned the thermostat to any setting, cold air spewed out.

We went to breakfast hoping to warm up, but since a conference is going on, we were put in the semi-outdoor area which was really cold. There was a heater but it didn’t cast much warmth. The food was a bit cold and the coffee was really, really strong so I had a cup of tea to warm up. And since the area has sliding doors to separate the cold from the heated area, there was a gully where the doors slid along and, of course, as I was trying to get my friend over under the heater, I twisted my bad foot in the gully. OUCH!!!!

We had the front desk guy in to try to fix the heat since it’s either boiling or freezing. He said he’d have to get maintenance because he agreed…for some reason it was either hot or cold…nothing in between.

Then I showed him how the towel rack pulls off the wall. His expression was hilarious as his eyes almost bugged out of his head and he said “OH WOW!!!! Never saw that before!!” Hopefully all will be fixed when we get back later today.

We boarded our bus and everyone wore masks as many people have come down with some kind of bug…fever, coughing, and feeling miserable. The rest of us are hoping we don’t catch it.

We visited The National Kiwi Hatchery this morning and learned all about kiwi, the icon of New Zealand. The kiwi hatchery is the largest and most successful kiwi hatchery in the world and is the leader in kiwi husbandry, egg incubation systems, hatching techniques, and kiwi chick rearing.

Kiwi tend to live in pairs, forming monogamous couples. These bonds are generally till death and have been known to last over 30 years. About every third day, the pair will shelter in the same burrow together. The relationship tends to be quite volatile and physical, the female generally calling the shots over her smaller partner. Kiwi are more mammalian than bird-like in that they have a belly button and they have an umbilical cord. The eggs of the kiwi are very large and would be the equivalent of a human giving birth to a three year old. The egg takes up about 20% of the mother’s mass. And most times, the kiwi has two eggs brewing at once.

After the kiwi hatch, the mom leaves and the dad sits on the egg. (I’d leave too after birthing a three year old!!!!) The dad kicks the egg with his foot to turn it, sits on it, and keeps kicking and sitting on the egg until it finally hatches which can take about 80 days. The mom eventually comes back when the chick has hatched and has gone on its own and the dad and the mom mate again.

After the baby is hatched, it sleeps for 48 hours and doesn’t have to be fed for five days since it has already received nourishment from the yoke of the egg.

The eggs and the baby kiwi are very vulnerable and are eaten by possum and other animals in the forest. Only about 5% of the kiwi survive in the wild. Dogs that are not on leashes are particularly lethal to the kiwi since they enjoy eating both the egg and the chicks. In 1987 a dog was loose in Waitangi State forest. For six weeks it rampaged through the forest killing every kiwi it encountered. By the time the dog was found, perhaps as many as 500 of the 1000 kiwi living there had been slaughtered.

The kiwi is the only bird in the world that has nostrils at the end of its beak. It can sniff out its food below the surface.

At the hatchery, we learned how the volunteers look for eggs in the wild and bring them back to the hatchery. They candle the egg to make sure there is a chick inside and then they incubate the egg, turning it 4 times a day while waiting for it to hatch. The kiwi doesn’t use its beak to peck out of its shell but rather uses its shoulders and legs. This takes about five days.

After the chick is hatched, it is taken care of until it is old enough to survive in the wild, and volunteers then put the kiwi back in the area of the forest where the egg was found.

We walked through the kiwi nocturnal house. They keep it very dark since the kiwi have sensitive eyes and can’t see very well. We weren’t allowed to take photos while in the house. We did see a few kiwi and the guide said we were lucky because sometimes, they are in their burrow and do not come out.

It is the end of the hatching season so there was only one egg in the hatchery, but its shell was cracked so it was in the ICU area and we couldn’t see it. They actually put duct tape around the shell to try to save a chick whose shell has been cracked or broken.

We did see one chick that was already quite large and he would eventually be out back into the forest. Some kiwi are about the size of a chicken.

It was very interesting learning all about kiwi and it was truly a unique experience.

After we visited the hatchery, we went to an authentic Māori village in Ohinemutu, home to the Ngāti Whakaue tribe.

Our guide Nicky (his Māori name was too long to remember) guided us around. He told us all about how the Māori live and how they use the geothermal resources to cook and to bathe which they have done for centuries. His family goes back 35 generations and his grandmother now owns most of the land. He is considered a chief. Catherine chose one of the men in our group, Tom, to be our chief, and Tom greeted Nicky and told him that we came in peace and we were honored to meet with him and to hear about his ways and his life. Nicky said a prayer and then we sang a song to him that we had been practicing. The words were:

Te avoha. (Love). Te Whakapeno. (Hope).
Me te rangimarie. (Peace). Tatou tatou e. (For all of us)

Then some of the group performed the hongi, the traditional Māori greeting performed by two people pressing their noses together and then deep breathing as one. The greeting is used at traditional meetings among Māori people, and at major ceremonies, such as a pōwhiri.

Traditionally, men receive a Mataora tattoo on their face – as a symbol of nobility. As māori believe the head is the most sacred part of the body, facial tattoos have special significance. Moko kauae is received by women on their lips and chin. A moko kauae represents a woman’s whānau and leadership within her community, recognizing her whakapapa, status, and abilities. Nicky did not have any facial tattoos as of yet, but he has decided on who he wants to do the tattooing and what he wanted tattooed on his face. He has already bonded with the tattoo artist, since both of them have tragically lost their brothers recently.

I believe I already posted about how the face is cut into the design the Māori wants on his or her face. The first cut is deep and when that heals it is cut again in the same area. After it is done a third time, the ink is then put into the areas that were cut, making permanent markings. The modern tool is a needle, although some artists alternate between traditional and modern methods. While the needle is faster and more precise, hand tools bring the ritual more in line with how it was done traditionally. I should have asked what method Nicky was going to have done.

We did see a Māori with the tattoos today and he played some music for us. This apparently was a rare and unplanned encounter, so we were lucky to be able to talk and listen to him.

We walked around the village and went into the Anglican Church and also saw the numerous areas where the geothermal gases are being released. One part of the sidewalk was cracked recently where the gases were escaping.

We enjoyed lunch in the cafe that is run by the Ngāti Whakaue. I had a delicious decaf cappuccino. We bid Nicky goodbye. He had us bow our heads and he said a prayer before we left, thanking God for the beautiful day and for meeting with us and sharing his life with us.

From there we went to the Whakarewarewa Forest, where a diverse range of exotic tree species and native undergrowth reside. The forest is most well known for its stand of Californian Coast Redwoods. They were truly magnificent to see as they all competed in height to tower over each other. We saw ferns and palm trees and the walk was just lovely. The forest path had rocks and tree roots all throughout, which wasn’t the greatest for my wonky foot, but I soldiered on and when I got back to the hotel, I took some Advil and Tylenol and rested so I could participate in tonight’s night canopy walk.

Redwoods Nightlights is one of New Zealand’s top places to visit. We had been there this afternoon of course, walking through the redwoods, but tonight promised a walk ABOVE all the trees. 9 meters high off the ground… which is 3 stories….30 feet!!! WTF was I thinking????? I have a terrible fear of heights and actually can only go up two steps on a ladder. Catherine said since it will be dark, I won’t see how high up we are. NOT!!!! I could see everything and after I went up the circular ramp which went up and up and up and started on the first swing bridge, I was hyperventilating and pretty freaking scared. But you can’t go back…so on I went, clutching the side rails and praying it would soon be over.

It apparently was beautiful so they tell me… with 34 lanterns designed by a world-renowned designer…David Trubridge. But I hardly saw anything since I just wanted to get down on terra firma. The walk over the swing bridges is almost 3,000 feet long with 27 platforms where mercifully, I could stop and catch my breath. There were 28 suspension bridges and it took about an hour to complete. I had more fun having my wisdom teeth out. I barely looked at the light display and the lanterns.

So all in all, between my wonky foot, the terror of the Redwood Night Walk, and the problems this morning with the heater, the day was not the best.
Catherine said she was so proud of me, as was Allan, that I did something that was really out of my comfort range.

We returned from the night walk and went directly to the bar. That should sum it all up!

Kiwi and egg on display in the hatchery

Nicky our Māori guide

St Michael’s Anglican Church in the Māori village

A Māori who we had the opportunity to speak with.

Whakarewarewa Forest

Very poisonous fern to touch

People would pull off the fronds and lay them in the forest so they could find their way back. The fronds almost glow like silver.

Beautiful trees all throughout the forest

Carved from red wood trees

Entrance to the forest

The night walk in the daylight

The swing bridge

My cappuccino at the Māori village

Our group in the redwood forest. Look at that trunk!!!!

The night walk lanterns

Still clinging for dear life.

The swing bridge

Rotorua

Today was a travel day. We flew first to Wellington and then on to Rotorua where we will be staying for three nights. Rotorua has about 77,000 residents and 75% are Māori.

When we were in the Wellington airport, we ate lunch while we waited for our next flight. Catherine said that O.A.T used to spend a few days in Wellington, but they don’t anymore since the feedback the company received was to stay longer in Queenstown and Rotorua. I’m so happy they changed it since Queenstown was wonderful and the four days we stayed there were fabulous.

Catherine has asked us to start conversations with the locals and she gave us questions to ask. 1. What do you love about New Zealand? 2. What is your favorite food? 3. What would you like to see changed in the country.
I’ve been busy asking the questions and so far, these are the answers:

  1. The people, the beauty of the country, nature
  2. Pasta, Lamb, Rice and Chicken, BBQ
  3. I’m happy with the government now, I’d love to see the rivers cleaned of algae, I’d like the government to allow people who have two homes to let the homeless live in one while the residents were at the other home.

Interesting answers to the questions. And today in the airport, the lady I was speaking to said New Zealanders can’t believe that with so many people living in the United States, how can Trump and Biden be the candidates for president? Interesting. I told her most of us agree!

We boarded our plane which was a turboprop and the flight was great. Instead of seeing the mountains and glaciers of the South Island, we flew over volcano and geothermal terrain on the North Island. There is geothermal activity all over caused by the underground thermal springs and you can smell the sulfur in the air.

Our coach took us to the Government Gardens that are near our hotel and we also saw the Rachel Spring. The Rachel Spring (Whangapipiro) is a geothermal pool that is a popular attraction for visitors to Rotorua. The pool is smaller than other thermal springs in the area. The flowers in the Government garden are blooming since Rotorua is warmer in climate than Queenstown was. It was in the 30’s when we left the South Island and now we are in the 60’s. There is a thermal Polynesian spa within walking distance to our hotel, and you can choose to soak in the public bath or have a private couples room. We’ll have to see if we have time to partake.

Our hotel room is beautiful…brand new. They are refurbishing all the rooms so we are lucky to have one of the newly refurbished rooms.

We had a delicious dinner and then it was off to bed. We have a busy day tomorrow.

Rachael Spring

Our jet boat group!!

Pedro our jet boat driver from yesterday.