FLORENCE, ITALY 2017

28 Dec 2017 Florence, Italy

Off with our friends to enjoy New Year’s Eve in Florence, Italy. Will let you know when we arrive. Ciao!

29 Dec 2017 Flight to Florence

We were delayed in Newark and didn’t take off until well after nine pm. We had dinner on the plane… salad, green beans, stuffing and… Wait for it…turkey with BBQ sauce. Yuck! But I did have two nice size glasses of red wine which made up for the not so great meal.

There was a lot of turbulence throughout the flight… And we were really rocking, but interestingly, I found it soothing and I actually slept for once on a plane. Go figure.

We transferred planes in Munich and flew on to Florence, flying over the beautiful mountains with little towns tucked beneath them. We checked into our hotel, The Diplomat and then we walked around town a little with our friends the Elliotts and the Williams. We found the restaurant where we made reservations for New Year’s and it seems like a quaint little place so we are looking forward to eating there.

We walked by the river Arno, and viewed the Ponte Vecchio or Old Bridge. The Germans, during WW II, destroyed all the bridges crossing the Arno, but this bridge miraculously was not destroyed.

It was around five and most restaurants close in Florence from 4 to 7 pm, and we were getting pretty hungry so we didn’t want too wait. We found one place open right by our hotel and we stopped in and enjoyed delicious soup and pizza there.

The weather was beautiful today and it was nice to escape the low temperatures we left in Bethlehem.

Tomorrow will be a busy day and we are tired so I’ll say goodnight!

30 Dec 2017 Florence

We had an amazing day in Florence. The weather was perfect and we started the day with a bus tour that took us to see an overview of the city. The view was spectacular and after the photo op we drove to visit the Galleria dell ’Accademia to see the renown sculptures by Michelangelo including above all, the statue of David. The statue of David was created between 1501 and 1504 and stands about 14 feet high. The marble statue depicts the biblical hero David, before battle with the giant Goliath. It is interesting that Michelangelo chose to depict David before battling the giant rather than afterwards, as most work had depicted up until that time. The details of the sculpture, like the veins in the arm and the taut leg muscles highlight Michelangelo’s amazing understanding of the human anatomy. It is also interesting that the head of David, his right hand and his feet are not in proportion to the rest of his body, but are much larger than they would ordinarily be. Some scholars think this was done by the artist on purpose as the statue was originally supposed to be placed high atop the cathedral of Florence and therefore those parts of the body had to be accentuated to be viewed from far below. But the vestry decided it was too beautiful to be placed atop the cathedral so the statue was placed in Piazza della Signoria where it remained until 1873 when it was moved to the Accademia under the magnificent skylight that was created to further enhance the statue’s beauty.

We also visited the Uffizi Gallery, one of the most prominent art galleries in Italy. Many of the works were gifted to the museum by the ruling house of Medici. On display are many famous works of art by Sandro Botticelli, Michelangelo, Davinci, and Raphael. As we were fortunate to view these original works of art, we could understand how these artists are among the greatest of all time.

We also toured Florence on foot with our guide, seeing the beautiful churches and squares and window shopped along the quaint streets.

Back at our hotel we had a glass of wine and spoke with Lucy, our concierge, who helped us plan a day on our own for tomorrow. Ten of us will take the train to Lucca, a Tuscan village and when we return, we will celebrate the new year.

We all went out to dinner and went back to the hotel to get a good night’s sleep after an amazing day in Florence.

31 Dec 2017 New year’s Eve

Today we decided to take a train ride to the town of Lucca, a little Tuscan town about 1 1/2 hours by train from Florence. We were going to go to Pisa but our concierge said Lucca was a more authentic Italian town.

The first site you see when you get off the train is the Cathedral of San Martino, a beautiful structure in the square. We couldn’t get into the cathedral upon arriving, since Sunday mass was going on, so we walked the narrow streets for awhile waiting for the mass to finish. The shop windows were decorated for the Christmas holiday and I loved looking into many of the upscale stores along the way. I also loved watching the people go by, many dressed for Sunday services at the Cathedral of San Martino, and hearing the Italian language spoken as the people passed. by..

When we were sure the mass was ending, we made our way back to the cathedral. However… we couldn’t find it, which was pretty unbelievable considering the massive size of the church. We

walked and walked and walked… Finally asking someone along the way who didn’t speak English but attempted to send us in the right direction with hand signals. We finally found the cathedral and went in, after paying three Euros apiece, but the cathedral was not as beautiful as the many other cathedrals we have seen in our travels, so it was a bit disappointing.

We had seen a place to eat lunch on our earlier journey through the streets so we made our way back and had a delicious lunch of pizza and of course wine. We then walked thru the market and all the ladies bought rain hats which looked pretty dorky on us, but they were lined and warm and kept our heads dry from the raindrops that had started to fall.

We caught the train back to Florence, had some more wine and then got ready for our new year’s celebration at 13 Gobbi, a restaurant where we had reservations.

We had a delicious meal at 13 Gobbi….too much to eat… lots of wine… And lots of laughs! Midnight came and we toasted each other, so happy to be with good friends to ring in 2018. We also raised our glasses to our friend Ron who passed away New Year’s Eve last year and also to our friend Nader who we wish the best for as he regains his health.

We lit sparklers and started singing Auld Lang Syne, God Bless America, as well as a few other songs, to the delight of some other Americans who told us as we left that they enjoyed our singing! We’ll be here all week folks!!

We made our way back to our hotel… Watching out for the fire crackers being set off by many of the Italians in the streets, and fell into bed since we have an early wake up tomorrow to visit Cinque Terre.

Happy New Year!!!!

01 Jan 2018 Cinque terre

This morning we were up bright and early to take a tour of Cinque Terre with some of the most dramatic coastal scenery short of the Amalfi coast. Cinque Terre is made up of five beautiful fishing villages and has been an Unesco World Heritage Site since 1997. The town’s are amazing, with tunnels cut into the mountainside and trains and boats that ferry you from town to town. Since it is off season, boats were not a available, but we took the trains to get from place to place. The cliffs seem like they would be uninhabited given their steepness, but homes are built into the mountainside and roads and pathways are carved into the cliff sides. A railway line cuts through a series of coastal tunnels and carries inhabitants and visitors from village to village.

The heavens opened and poured down upon us during our visit to Porto Venere, a village on the Ligurian coast of northwestern Italy. Porto Venere is not part of the five villages of Cinque Terre. When we arrived, we climbed up the hill to visit the gothic Church of St. Peter, consecrated in 1198. It was a very austere church, but the outside portico with its breathtaking view of the Mediterranean was worth the climb and the braving of the raindrops. The village could be walked in fifteen minutes and the seaside views were spectacular. Amazingly, the sun came out and stayed with us for the rest of the day.

From there our bus took us to the train station where we were transported to Manarola, the first village we visited in Cinque Terre. Manarola is the second smallest of the famous five Cinque Terre villages. We were fortunate to be visiting Manarola around the Christmas holiday as the hillside is turned into a huge nativity scene with 300 characters gracing the mountainside.

We walked the streets, where boats are parked like cars along the road, awaiting the warmer weather to be ferried into the water, and we walked down to the sea to view the breathtaking views.

We boarded another train to Vernazza, a quaint seaside town where we visited Santa Margherita di Antiochia Church. This church overlooks the square and sits atop The harbor. The church is peaceful and simplistic with its stone columns. It dates back to 1318.

Monterosso, the next town we visited is the largest and most commercial of the communities and features the longest sandy beach, although the sand was not white but rather a grayish black with many stones. People were lounging on the sand and most had their dogs with them who were having fun running after the breakers. We enjoyed a delicious lunch in one of the many restaurants. I had gnocchi with shrimp and Allan had ravioli in a bolognese sauce. And of course… wine!

We found a bench looking over the sea and sat down to let the sunshine warm our faces as we waited for the next train to take us to Corniglia.

Corniglia is not right on the sea, but rather up high on the cliffs. It is a beautiful town and we walked around enjoying window shopping and watching the people. We boarded another train that took us to our bus for the two hour ride back to Florence.

Allan and I weren’t hungry so we just had prosciutto, cheese and sun- dried tomato sandwiches on delicious bread with some wine and then went to bed to get a good night’s sleep before our day trip tomorrow to Siena and San Gimignano.

Florence, Italy

02 Jan 2018

11:30 am

Siena and San Gimignano

Stazione Pisa Centrale

I would be remiss if I didn’t tell you about the hotel we have been spending the week at. The Diplomat has many amenities…a fully stocked bar, manned by Ricardo, and a nice seating area where we spent many evenings socializing with our friends and reliving our daily sojourns.

Our room has a king-sized bed, but really no place to unpack your clothes in, which was fine for me, since I don’t unpack but rather leave everything in my travel cubes.

The bathroom has a heated towel bar which not only held the towels that enfolded us in warmth after our showers, but also dried our hand-washables in record time. Speaking of showers, the fire alarm went off the other morning on our floor but since the cleaning staff seemed very calm, Allan and I just walked down the stairs and went on our way to breakfast. Apparently fire alarms go off if someone is taking a steamy hot shower.

One morning we woke up to a trickle of water from our sink faucet and no water in the shower. I quickly filled up our sink with what little water came out of the tap before it stopped completely and we used that to get washed. The water came back about an hour later but by that time, we were ready to go on our tour and so off we went. (We did try to stay away from folks though throughout the day. Phew!) LOL!

We took a day long tour of Siena and San Gimignano today, traveling by bus. Siena is a city in central Italy’s Tuscany region, and is known for its medieval brick buildings that grace the streets. The city’s 17 historic “contrade” (districts) extend outward from the piazza and the historic center of Siena has been declared by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site.

We stopped in to visit St. Dominic Basilica, where Catherine of Siena’s body is preserved. Well actually, only parts of Catherine are mummified there; her head and her thumb. The rest of her body parts are in other parts of Italy. Since she was so revered, many churches

wanted her…Even if it was just a small relic of her body.

The Basilica had an addition added to it, but unfortunately, the addition was more modern than the original. The stained glass windows I thought looked hideous… Like they were drawn by a six year old and colored in. I felt it was a shame, considering the beautiful paintings and original Gothic architecture in the old part.

Another site we saw was the Piazza del Campo, the enormous square in the historic center of Siena where twice a year, The Palio di Siena takes place. This is a horse race where ten of the seventeen contrades are represented and the jockeys ride barebacked and compete to be the winner. The race is run for three laps of the piazza and usually lasts no more than 90 seconds. According to Wikipedia…”It is common for a few of the jockeys to be thrown off their horses while making the treacherous turns in the piazza, and indeed, it is not unusual to see unmounted horses finishing the race without their jockeys”. YIKES!

We saw many beautiful churches, but the most spectacular was the Siena Cathedral. This magnificent structure has four distinct sides but the main portal highlights Romanesque, Gothic, and Classical architecture. It truly is a work of art.

We saw Torre del Mangia, a 340 foot bell tower, walked the quaint streets, and we found a nice place for lunch… And yes… Had some Chianti as well!

Then it was off to San Gimignano, another Tuscan town not too far away. The town is encircled by walls from the 13th century. Upon arrival we were treated to a beautiful panorama of the Tuscan area atop a hill and then we walked Florence, Italy

around until we came to some of the 14 towers that are in the walled town. From a distance, the towers might look like midtown Manhattan, but we only were able to view them from up close.

Our guide was knowledgeable, but after awhile we really didn’t know what we were seeing and what the historical significance was (and to tell you the truth, we really didn’t care). The breeze had picked up and we were starting to get chilled so we just wanted to end the tour and find some hot cocoa. Which we did and boy…was the cocoa delicious. It was the consistency of chocolate syrup and I had to ask for some milk to dilute it a little. It was delicious and really hit the spot!

It was a long day and we just had a sandwich, some wine and then went to our rooms for a good night’s sleep.

03 Jan 2018 Pisa and Florence

Florence, Italy

Today Allan and I decided to go off on our own and took the train to Pisa to see the leaning tower. How could we be an hour away from Pisa by rail and not see that iconic landmark? It is so easy to get around via the train system and we were in Pisa in a little more than an hour.

We walked from the train station through the streets of Pisa, and crossed the Arno river, the same river that flows through Florence, starting in the Appenines, continuing through Pisa and ending up in the Tyrrhenian Sea which is part of the Mediterranean.

There are many upscale stores in Pisa and many little cafes tucked along the main street. After about a twenty minute walk, we made a turn and there before us was the tower. The tower is in the Piazza del Duomo, where the cathedral and the baptristy can also be seen and the entire area is enclosed in walls. We researched and found out that although the leaning tower is probably the most famous landmark, it is actually the bell tower for the magnificent Duomo (cathedral).

The tower started to lean during construction in the 12th century because of soft ground on one side that couldn’t support the weight of the structure. The tower continued to lean through the decades and was stabilized in the 20th and 21st centuries.

The height of the tower is 183.27 feet from the ground on the low side and 185.93 feet on the high

side. According to Wikipedia…”Prior to restoration work performed between 1990 and 2001, the tower leaned at an angle of 5.5 degrees, but the tower now leans at about 3.99 degrees”.

All around were tourists doing the touristy thing of having one person take the photo of another “holding up” the tower. Were we going to participate in that silly make- believe????? You betcha!!! And we have the pics to prove it.

We walked back to the train station along the river and saw a beautiful little church, Santa Maria della Spina. The tiny church was built around 1230 and the architecture was magnificent. What an unexpected treasure to find.

We took the express train back to Florence and as we exited the station, Allan commented that he got me back to Florence in one Pisa! Always the comedian that guy!!!

We did some more touring of Florence, found a little restaurant where we had to walk downstairs to a bricked underground dining area. There we enjoyed homemade pasta, Chianti and finished the meal off with a cappuccino for me and an espresso for Allan.

We toured Florence one last time and then went back to the hotel to pack. We met everyone for our goodbye dinner at Osteria Pastella and we all had the beef dishes that Florence is known for. We had a great time but now it’s to bed for our early morning wake up call and our flight home.

Arrivederci Florence.

Florence, Italy

04 Jan 2018

7:00 pm

Ciao Florence… Hello Chicago???????!!!
Chicago O’Hare International Airport

Snow storm has us diverted to Chicago where we are waiting to rebook a flight. Will be here overnight. Hope we can get some deep dish pizza!!!

05 Jan 2018 On our way home

Chicago O’Hare International Airport

Well… Airline put us up for the night in a Marriott hotel and gave us each 30 dollars worth of vouchers for food. It was good to have a good night’s sleep and a morning shower.

We will take a flight to Philly and then a bus to Newark… Uber over to Scott and Erin’s to pick up our car and then drive to Bethlehem. Kids all asked us to stay overnight but we just want to head home. Just hope our flight takes off.

It was a great time in Italy and we are so glad we made the trip. See you on our next adventure!

06 Jan 2018 Back home again

Our flight to Philly was fine…then we took the bus to the Park and Ride where many of the travelers had parked their cars for the trip. Allan and I had parked at Scott and Erin’s home, so we needed to get back to Jersey. We were fortunate in that a car was provided for us that took us back to Jersey, and we picked up our car and headed back to Bethlehem…stopping along the way for an early “breakfast” at McDonald’s! We arrived home around 3:30 am. It was a great adventure…and actually it was the first time in all of our travels that we were diverted to an unplanned flight stop.

BAVARIA TO BUDAPEST along the Danube 2016

03 Nov 2016

Leavin’ on a jet plane

Newark Airport

Well…our bags are packed and we are ready to go! We are off for our Danube river adventure! The weather will be chilly and there might even be some snow…which should be a beautiful sight to see in the countries that we are visiting. But alas, because of boots and heavier winter clothing, i could not invoke my usual ‘carry-on luggage only’ rule. We just couldn’t make the 18 lb. limit for carry-on bags. So…for the first time in years…we are checking a bag! I’m giddy with all the room I now have. I even packed a travel steamer!! Will the fun never end?????

Anyway…the Danube River, Napoleon once said, is the “Queen of Europe’s Rivers”. It measures 1,775 miles long, is 1 mile wide in parts and flows past 10 countries. We will be visiting three of them…Germany, Austria, and Hungary. We’ll be cruising on one of Viking’s longships, the Gullveig. 

We have already been advised by Viking that in Nuremberg, Germany, due to the low water levels, we might be boarding Viking’s Aegir, another longship. Then somewhere along the way, we will change to the Gullveig. This is a common occurrence with river travel and we won’t have to do anything except repack our bags. The porters do all the rest.

So stay tuned and check into read about our adventures. We hope to give you an armchair tour of our travels and take you along for the cruise. First stop…Nuremberg! Auf Wiedersehen!

04 Nov 2016

First day onboard

Frankfurt Airport (FRA)

While waiting for our flight we met another couple who are also going on the cruise. We chatted for awhile. They are from the Poconos area of PA. They weren’t on our flight but we will meet up with them on the ship.

Our 747 had a three-four-three seat configuration and we were in the middle four seats. Yikes!!! Very, very cramped. But as luck would have it, unbelievably, the people in the other two seats never showed up.

Anyway, a lady across the aisle was coveting the seats since she was in a threesome row, but I quickly jumped over when I heard that everyone was on board. She gave me a dirty look…but hey you snooze you lose. it was great to spread out for the six plus hour flight with four seats all to ourselves.

It’s amazing to me what the airlines let on board for carry-on even though they say the size and weight limits are strictly enforced. People show up with carryons the equivalent of grand pianos and they waltz on and start shoving the oversized items into the overhead bins. It’s quite entertaining.

We arrived at our ship The Aegir after a thirty minute drive. The ship is quite lovely with large glass windows in the veranda dining room where we had lunch. There is also a main dining room which is also well appointed. Our room is small but it does have a lot of space for putting everything we brought away. With the suitcases under the bed we have plenty of room.

After lunch a number of us went into town. Our bus driver took us along the autobahn and on the way our guide told us sone of Nuremberg’s history.

Nuremberg was almost devastated during World War II. It was rebuilt after the war and now has a population of over 500,000. It is renown for its sausages, beer, gingerbread, and toys.

One interesting fact about the city is that two brothers years ago started the shoe company Adidas. But they had a falling out and the one brother became estranged from the other and started manufacturing sneakers under the name Puma. The families are still feuding to this day.

We arrived at the town square and walked around . It’s a huge place with many stores that are popular in the states. Then of course we had to try some German pretzels; one with bacon that was just like prosciutto and another with chives. Stopped in for a cup of cappuccino as well. Then we walked to a magnificent church…St Lorentz of Nuremberg. Construction started in 1250 and finished in 1477. Sadly, it was badly damaged during WW II and was later restored. It is now Evangelical Lutheran. I lit a votive candle and placed it in the sand circle at the back of the church.

We’ve met three really nice couples and enjoyed dinner with them. Now it’s off to bed.

05 Nov 2016

12:30 pm

Touring Nuremberg

Today is overcast but the rain held off as we went into Nuremberg for the city tour which highlighted much of old Nuremberg and also some of the buildings from WW II and the Nazi regime.

Nuremberg in the Middle Ages was as popular as London and New York City is in our world today. Since Nuremberg is almost in the center of Germany and has excellent transportation system to allow trade and commerce from other countries into it, it remains one of Germany’s most popular cities. Many innovative ideas got their birth in Nuremberg. The first globe of the world was created in Nuremberg in 1493 depicting three continents and the pocket watch was invented here as well.

Hitler chose Nuremberg so his maniacal powers of speech could be fully deployed. Sadly, since WW I had shaken Germany to its core, Hitler’s promises of a new Germany was balm to the German people. He was able to rally thousands at once to listen to his fanatical tirades. We saw the Zeppelin field where many rallies were held, the hotel where Hitler would stand on the balcony addressing the throngs and saw where the Nuremberg trials were held.

We took a walking tour through the old town seeing the Nuremberg castle. Walking up to the castle itself was a feat since it was all uphill and winding cobblestones. We had a beautiful view of the old town below where one of the buildings from the Middle Ages still stands despite the devastation to the surrounding buildings from WW II.

Continuing into town, we saw the beautiful Church of Our Lady where at noon everyday, the figures atop come to life to honor King. Karl IV. We were fortunate to witness it first hand.

We had lunch with new friends at a quaint German restaurant where we dined on 3 bratwurst in a bun with a nice glass of beer. Pretzels and mustard completed the meal. Delicious!

A speaker came aboard and talked about the history of Bavaria and tonight we will enjoy dinner and get a much needed sleep afterwards as we are still a little jet lagged.

06 Nov 2016

Regensburg, Germany

From the moment you arrive in Regensburg and the Gothic twin spires of St. Peter’s magnificent cathedral greet you, making lacy silhouettes against the sky, you know you are in a beautiful German city. The cathedral has been rebuilt numerous times since its first construction around 700 and the carved statues that adorn the outside of the cathedral are amazing. We were actually able to go inside this beautiful cathedral and see the beautiful architecture and hear the powerful organ, since a Sunday mass was in progress, making the experience awe inspiring indeed.

From the cathedral we went onto the old stone bridge…a 12th century edifice crossing the Danube. For more than 800 years it was the only crossing across the river. After WW II, at the end of the war, the Nazis blew up a part of the bridge as they left the city. The bridge has been restored numerous times since then and is in the process of being restored today.

We also took an extended tour of the Jewish area. The earliest references to Jews in Regensburg goes back to the 11th century and the Jewish settlement in Regensburg is one of the oldest Jewish settlements in Bavaria on record. The Christians were forbidden to lend money so the Jewish people did all the money lending and in 1452 a duke wanted all Jews expelled from the area. The city council did not accede to this, but instead made all Jews wear an arm badge. The Jews were persecuted and a number of untrue accusations were made against them. Emperor Maximilian shielded the Jews from persecution but immediately after his death in 1519, Jews were given four days in which to leave the city. They had to leave all of their belongings behind and their homes were torched and destroyed as well as their synagogue and their cemeteries. More than 4000 gravestones were destroyed and even more horrifically, used in the construction of new buildings. We saw a building from that time and the gravestone still stands embedded in the stone. So as never to forget that horrific event, the foundation where the synagogue stood is now memorialized with a structure that reproduces the layout of the original building. The artist Dani Karavan made a place for all to sit and reflect, relax and ponder. He called it Place for Thought. Little ones were running around and playing there today during our tour.

In 1995 the city of Regensburg was digging up the roads in order to install lighting for the Christmas market, so imagine their amazement when the found the ruins of the city’s medieval Jewish quarter. Unfortunately it was closed today so we were not able to go down underneath the roads to explore it.

We were getting hungry, and at the foot of the historic bridge that crosses the Danube, is an historic restaurant called Historiche Wurstkuche…the oldest sausage kitchen in Europe. It is a 12 century tavern that sells beer and the most delicious sausages on a bed of sauerkraut. We had a delicious repast there with our friends Bernadette and Gaetano and I can now honestly say, I am sausauged out!! (until tomorrow when we arrive in Passau!!!!! 

Throughout the city, there are plaques in the ground called stumbling blocks. Each block is a brass plate inscribed with the name, birth date and death date of victims of the nazi extermination.

07 Nov 2016

Passau, Germany

Passau is at the confluence of three rivers…the Danube, Inn, and the Ilz. Passau is another quaint city, however our first stop was not quaint but rather magnificent. St Stephen’s Cathedral is truly a masterpiece of Italian baroque, built by Italian architect Carlo Lurago. With 17,774 pipes, the organ at St. Stephen’s was once the largest pipe organ in the world. (The largest today is the Boardwalk Hall Auditorium Organ in Atlantic City). St Stephen’s organ is really several separate organs all accessible from one or more consoles. Our guide told us there are five organs en total with one organ actually in the ceiling.

The town is dominated by the Veste Oberhaus and the former fortress of the Bishop. We enjoyed walking around the city and then returned to the ship for lunch. Tonight we are off to Krems.

Last night we were entertained by some German musicians and had a German feast for dinner. Lots of sausages, dumplings, sauerkraut, roast pig and veal were the fare along with streusel and of course the famous Black Forest cake   

08 Nov 2016

Krems, Vienna

Today dawned sunny and comfortably warm as we entered Austria and cruised along the beautiful and picturesque Wachau Valley on the Danube, designated a UNESCO World Heritage area. We passed vineyards, rolling hills and groves of apricot trees and the foliage along the way was colorful against the gorgeous blue sky. Truly a sight to behold. We were able to view the castle where Richard the Lionhearted was imprisoned and we saw quaint villages with colorful houses tucked into the hillsides.

After lunch we took a ride to the 900 year old Gottweig Abbey, a monastery and palace rolled into one, where Benedictine monks still work and worship. The abbey overlooks the beautiful Wachau Valley and was founded in 1083. The monastery burned down in 1718 for a second time, but was rebuilt on an even grander scale than ever before. Rooms can be found in the living quarters that are suited for royalty and the fresco decorating the imperial staircase is considered a masterpiece in the Baroque style.

The abbey is still an active church where monks gather to pray during the day and where visitors are welcome. The abbey has a library of 130,000 books and documents, all of which survived WW II. The monastery offers bed and breakfast type accommodations for guests from May to October and offers these guests an opportunity to pray with the monks. The monastery owns vineyards that produce fine wines under the direction of Fritz Miesbauer and we had the opportunity to sample some of them.

It was a fabulous day with perfect weather to appreciate the uniqueness of this beautiful area.

The chalk numbers and letters on doors throughout the city are put on by acolytes as they go around at Christmas time collecting money for the poor. The numbers depict the year and the letters C, M, and B stand for the three wise men… Caspar, Melchoir and Balthasar. The inscription is thought to bestow blessings on the home and its inhabitants all through the year.

Pics of Gottweig monastery  and Abbey church and our ship as the sun sets.

09 Nov 2016

Vienna, Austria

Vienna! What a beautiful city. And to make our touring even more perfect…the sun shone all day and we were treated to mild temperatures. We took a bus around town and saw the amazing architecture prevalent throughout the town. Christmas trees and lights were being set up for the Christmas mart that will open on Saturday and because of that, the crowds were non-existent since everyone arrives on Saturday.

We visited St Stephen’s cathedral – a beautiful church in the heart of the city. The tour guides tell us that the code for the churches and cathedrals throughout Europe is…ABC…Another Beautiful Church and as usual, this one did not disappoint. It was consecrated in 1147 and is the mother church of the Roman archdiocese in Vienna. The multi tiled roof on the cathedral is absolutely beautiful.

Our PA friends and Allan and I went off to do some shopping. I was able to purchase some Mozart candies…chocolate surrounded by marzipan…and from there we went to a cafe and had cappucino and delicious Viennese pastries. While enjoying our coffee and chatting, we suddenly realized…our tour bus had already left without us!!!! We were having such a good time we didn’t keep track of the time. Well…no worries. We decided to stay and tour the Sisi Museum…the imperial apartments and the silver collection of Elisabeth, the Empress of Austria. It was a fantastic exhibition depicting the china, silver and personal items that were a part of daily life in the palace. We also were able to enter the apartments of the royal family. Sisi was a beloved and beautiful, empress who suffered from depression. One of her daughters died in infancy and her son committed suicide. Sisi was assassinated when she was 60 years old. Her life has been compared to princess Diana…the only difference being that Sisi was adored and cherished by her husband Franz Joseph of Austria. His words upon her death; “You cannot imagine how I loved this woman”.

We navigated the Viennese subway system successfully and returned to the boat. Then allan and I went to a Heurigen tavern…meaning a tavern that serves the year’s new wine from the local vineyards. We sampled five wines…all throughout the evening along with Viennese fare. It was a wonderful evening…with violinist and accordionist playing folk songs, old favorites, new favorites and everything in between. The violinist played Santa Lucia and I sang along with him in Italian and everyone cheered and clapped and said I did a great job. (But that was probably the wine speaking LOL!!!!).

We are back on our ship listening to the piano player and having a drambuie. Life is good!!

  10 Nov 2016

Vienna, Austria

Waltzes, strudel, Mozart…just a glimpse of Vienna! It is a city with buildings both historic and modern standing side by side. Our day once again dawned sunny and warm and off we went to the Schonbrunn Palace, the former Imperial summer residence. The palace has over one thousand rooms and has housed successive monarchs of the Habsburg monarchy.

The palace was remodeled by Maria Theresa who received the palace as a wedding gift. Franz Joseph, the longest reigning emperor in Austria’s history, was born at the palace and spent most of his life there and Empress Elizabeth, known as Sisi, was fond of strolling through the magnificent palace gardens. The gardens of course were not in bloom in November, but one could imagine the grandeur that the residents must have enjoyed. We were able to visit twenty rooms, many of which had original oil portraits of the Monarchs and also the original wall paper and furniture.

After our palace tour, we went off on our own, walking through the streets in search of a place to eat. We found a restaurant and enjoyed a delicious Thai lunch with sushi and the waitress even gave us complimentary spring rolls. After we dined, she brought coconut milk with tapioca to end our meal and then we did some shopping and took the subway back to the pier. We are getting very good at navigating the underground system, but tonight we are sailing to Esztergom so our Viennese subway prowess will have to be saved until we return perhaps again to this beautiful city.

11 Nov 2016

Dunaalmas, Hungary

We are so lucky with the weather on this trip. Once again, the cold weather that we feared was not in evidence and we went off to tour Dunaalmas, Hungary where we had a lesson in langos and strudel making. When we walked in we were treated to a glass of Palinka a traditional fruit brandy. It really helped to take the chill off as we downed the glass in one gulp, Hungarian style.

I volunteered to roll the dough for langos which is similar to pita and then was able to enjoy it with garlic butter after it was baked. Allan and I also learned the fine technique of strudel making…and Allan did a commendable job stretching the dough paper thin. We enjoyed some wine and freshly baked apple and cheese strudel before heading off to Esztergom. Esztergom is the seat of the Hungarian Catholic Church and was the birthplace of the first Hungarian king, St. Stephen, as well as the capital of Hungary until the 13th century. Hungary was not a free country for centuries…being ruled by Mongolians, Turks, the Hapsburgs, Nazis, and Russians.

We stopped to visit the Basilica of the Blessed Virgin Mary, the mother church of the archdiocese of Esztergom. The present church was built on the foundation of several other churches…the first being built between 1001-1010.

On the way back to the ship our guide told us some interesting information about how the holidays are celebrated in Hungary. Easter Monday is celebrated by the women painting Easter eggs and giving them to the men folk. The menfolk in return “sprinkle” the women with water (sometimes ice water in buckets) and sometimes with perfume. This custom is to ensure the ladies stay young until next year. The boys say a little poem first before the sprinkle their lady…the last line asking “may I sprinkle you?” Usually…the girl says yes! Baskets are filled with chocolate bunnies and chocolate eggs and are hidden in the house or garden for little ones to find.

The Christmas holiday is celebrated first on December 6 when children polish their shoes and boots and put them in the window so St. Nicholas can come and fill them with candies and chocolates. On December 24, the Christmas tree is decorated and on the 25th a dinner replete with fish soup made mostly from trout and lots of paprika to give it a red color. Stuffed cabbage is also eaten and the children are given sweets and toys from baby Jesus.

New Years is another celebration. Everyone eats lentils to become rich and roast baby pork for good luck.

We returned back to the ship and Allan and I went on a tour of the wheelhouse on the ship and listened to the captain’s presentation of the different properties of our ship, the Aegir.

And then…one of the highlights of our trip; the opportunity to sail into Budapest at night and witness the stately parliament building lit up and its lights twinkling and reflecting on the Danube. We were so lucky to have the chance to see this and we won’t soon forget the magnificence of Buda and Pest on either side of the Danube as we sailed under bridges and took in the beauty of each shore. With the lights illuminating the night, it certainly was a magnificent sight.

Our friends and Allan and I decided to forego the captains dinner and make our way into Pest because the Christmas market opened tonight. Will tell you all about it tomorrow, after we go to sleep, with the memories of our first glimpses of Hungary sprinkled in our dreams.

12 Nov 2016

Budapest

Danube River Cruise

As promised, I will tell you about the Christmas market in Pest that Allan and I along with our friends Bernadette and Gaetano walked to last night. We found our way through the streets and entered the market, greeted by a beautifully decorated Christmas tree. The stalls were filled with hand crafted items from scarfs and hand hewn wooden bowls to candles and jewelry and so much more. Bernadette spotted the paprika that I had been searching for so I was happy to be able to finally purchase it. Hungary has the forint as currency so converting from euros into forints was a little challenging and I think the merchants made a little extra cash … compliments of us.

There was a band playing rock music which added to the festive atmosphere and people were walking around smiling and happy to kick off the season. In almost every row you could find a stall with gingerbread. The bakers in Hungary are so talented, decorating everything with meticulous care. The gingerbread cookies were intricately decorated in colored sugar icings…much too beautiful to eat.

We had dinner at the food mart in the middle of the market which was offering pork knuckles, goulash and many other local delicacies. I opted for the goulash in a bread bowl. Delicious!!

This morning we took a bus tour of Buda and Pest and saw some interesting sights. Today was rainy but fortunately not cold so even though we were under umbrellas it was comfortable Our guide was funny and informative and made the ride very interesting.

We stopped at the Church of Mathias which was originally built in Romanesque style in 1015, although no archaeological remains exist. The current building was constructed in Gothic style in the second half of the 14th century and was extensively restored in the late 19th century. We were fortunate to hear a men’s choir sing during our visit.

We had cappuccino and espresso with decadent desserts and then returned to the ship in time for lunch.

Our afternoon shore excursion was a trip to the Széchenyi Medicinal Bath, the largest medicinal bath in Europe. The spa is huge with indoor pools and outdoor pools. We were given a “watch” that you scan and it tells you your cabin number where you can change into your bathing suit and then you scan your “watch” and your cabin opens.

The pools were very crowded but we found little niches within them to enjoy the warmth the thermal baths offered. We thought it was too chilly to partake in the outdoor bath but as we were leaving Gaetano and I decided to brace it and we took the plunge. It was actually quite lovely with the warmth of the bath and the coolness of the air.

The Shoes Memorial on the Danube River

One of the more poignant moments on our trip was seeing The Shoes on the Danube, a memorial to the Budapest Jews who were shot by Arrow Cross militiamen between 1944 and 1945. The victims were lined up and shot into the Danube River. They had to take their shoes off, since shoes were valuable belongings at the time. It contains 60 pairs of iron shoes, forming a row along the Danube. Each pair of shoes was modeled after an original 1940’s pair.

13 Nov 2016

Farewell Danube River

Well our trip was wonderful but we are ready to board our plane for our return to home. Hope you all enjoyed traveling with us. Bye Danube river. You are a beautiful river and we are so glad we had the opportunity to sail your waters and see your magnificent shores. But now we are ready to waltz home with the memories of our trip in our hearts.  

Our trip from 2015 – Romance the Rhine and Mosel

08 Jul 2015

Leaving on a jet plane for Paris and then flying on to Basel, Switzerland where we board our River boat The Melody and begin our journey. . Join us as we meander down the Rhine and Mosel rivers, visiting five countries along the way.

Most of you know when we travel…it’s always an adventure…so buckle up, com’on along and we hope you enjoy the ride!

09 Jul 2015  Switzerland  

We made it to Switzerland and met our program director Steven. He seems like a lot of fun and is very personable. (By the way Rosa and george…Steven remembered the both of you)!!!Met a group of folks from Canada and we enjoyed having lunch with them. Bob the only man in the group is a hoot and he’s very quick with the one liners.

Lunch was a buffet and the food was delicious. They also give you wine at lunch and dinner.

After lunch we all walked around Basel. Not much going on in Basel without taking the tram, but it was a beautiful day for walking around with our newfound friends. We will do the touring on the tram tomorrow and go into town with our guide.

We walked to the end of our pier and took a photo of the monument where the borders of three countries meet. Germany, Switzerland and France.

Before dinner we had a Port Talk in the Lounge where we received info about what will be happening tomorrow.

Had dinner with two ladies and then the hotel director Jennifer joined us at our table. She ordered two outstanding wines for us all to enjoy and brought the chef out to meet us. We commended him. The chicken cordon bleu was outstanding. We enjoyed our conversation with Jennifer and she promised to meet us again for drinks. So far a very enjoyable start to our trip.

10 Jul 2015 Switzerland

Today we joined our program director for a guided tour through Basel. We took a tram ride into the market to begin our walk.

Switzerland is a neutral country but it is unique in the fact it has enough nuclear fallout shelters to accommodate its entire population. “Every inhabitant must have a protected place that can be reached quickly from his place of residence” and “apartment block owners are required to construct and fit out shelters in all new dwellings”, according to articles 45 and 46 of the Swiss Federal Law on Civil Protection. In 2006, there were 300,000 shelters in Swiss dwellings, institutions and hospitals, as well as 5,100 public shelters, providing protection for a total of 8.6 million individuals – a coverage of 114 per cent. The Swiss military can even land jet fighters on highways in the event of an invasion.

And other nations might want to invade Switzerland for the chocolate alone. The nation consumes 23 lbs of chocolate per person each year in contrast to USA who pale at 10 lbs per person per year. China is beginning to get on the chocolate wagon and their consumption of the confection was almost nonexistent but is recently starting to grow.

Basel has over 9000 university students and some of them live in apartments that are along the main roads. It is definitely a college town with lovely cafes, flower markets and bakeries that sell delicious looking breads. The average incone per capita is around sixty thousand dollars.

Novartis the drug company has a main building in Basel.

There are water fountains throughout Basel where the water comes out of a faucet into a large cistern and very safe to drink. People were filling up water bottles from them.

We saw apartments that had the name of a family from years ago etched into the concrete and also the number of the building as well as the year it was built. Apparently Napoleon introduced the numbering system of the homes.

There is a ferry that crosses the Rhine. Ferry men are prestigious people and your father had to be a ferryman for you to become one. When a baby is born, the mother will put the babies feet into a clay material and then she will place her fingers around the imprint. Then the mom takes this mold to the ferryman and he places his two thumbs into the mold. The clay hardens and it becomes a keepsake.

We visited a beautiful church, the Basel Münster, which was built between 1019 and 1500 in Romanesque and Gothic styles. On the eastern side were statues of elephants. The man who sculpted them had never seen an elephant, but made the statues according to descriptions from people who had seen them.

Within this beautiful church are amazing stained glass windows and on the floor near the pulpit is a glass window with a dragon painted on the stone underneath. Legend has it that if you walk over this glass three times your sins will be forgiven. I guess the trick is to sin as much as possible and then go to Basler Munster and walk over the dragon three times. Lol! I walked over three times so I’m good to go for awhile.

We walked through town and stopped at the Romance kissing corner. Legend has it that if you kiss your true love here…your love will last forever. Bridal couples have their wedding ceremonies and then always head over to the kissing corner. Of course, I kissed my true love there.

One of the spectacular artworks in Basel was done by an artist named Jean Tinguely who passed away this year. “He designed a fountain in 1977 placing some amusing machine sculptures in an enormous pool of water on the site where the stage of the old city theatre was once located. The Swiss artist had black asphalt poured into a shallow basin before placing these low power-operated, water-spouting objects in it. These nine iron eminences are in constant motion and “talk” to each other just as did the mimers, actors and dancers who once performed at this very spot”.

We returned to the boat and enjoyed a delicious lunch…again dining with new people. Everyone is fun loving and we are having a great time.

There was a port talk this afternoon and a local came onboard and told us all about Switzerland … The government, housing, employment, her life etc. She said the divorce rate is over fifty percent. I guess those couples forgot to go to the romance kissing corner!

We went to the captains welcome dinner and dined on five courses…one of which was roasted veal. After dinner watched as the boat traveled through one of the many locks on the journey. Then off to do some dancing and then to bed. We have an early morning tomorrow.

11 Jul 2015 Strasbourg, France

We are now docked on the river Ill in Strasbourg, France. Bright and early this morning we took a tram to go to the center of Strasbourg. What a beautiful and quaint town.

The highlight of the tour was the Cathédrale de Notre-Dame of Strasbourg, a masterpiece of the Gothic era. The magnificence of the structure, the altar, the statues and the breathtaking stained glass windows were awe inspiring.

We also saw the famous Strasbourg astronomical clock which is located in the cathedral. This excerpt is taken from the Internet.

“This clock was remarkable both for its complexity as an astronomical device and for the range and richness of its decorations and accessories. As well as the many dials and indicators – the calendar dial, the astrolabe, the indicators for planets, and eclipses – the clock was also well endowed with paintings, moving statues, automata, and musical entertainment”.

After visiting the cathedral we went on a boat ride through the canals of Strasbourg. The tour lasted for over an hour and a half and followed the River Ill around the Grand Île, which is the center of Strasbourg.

We passed through the colorful La Petite France area and navigated thru two locks. We had lovely views of the beautiful French architecture and also passed thru the European District, home of the European Parliament.

After lunch we boarded a bus and went to Alsace. Along the way we saw vineyards and rolling hills and absolutely charming homes. Some of the homes, to show whether or not an eligible woman or man lived there, had hearts or bottles of wine on the peaks of the roof. We passed Vineyards that had large crucifixes at the roadside. The crucifixes were placed there so that the vineyard would be blessed with a prosperous and fruitful season.

It was once thought that the vines had to be replaced every 20 years. After 20 years the production of the grapes diminishes greatly. Upon further discovery however they found that the grapes that were on the vines after 20 years were much more robust in flavor than the newer vines. So now the vines are left to continue to grow and produce grapes. The quantity might not be as much but the quality is certainly there. Of course vintners do continue to plant new vines regularly, in addition to preserving the old.

We arrived at a popular tourist attraction ~ the quaint town of Riquewihr. This beautiful little town is known for its historical architecture. Many of the buildings in this village were built in the 1500’s,1600’s and 1700’s. Riquewihr is known for Riesling and other great wines many of which are produced in the village. Riquewihr looks today more or less as it did in the 16th century. It is officially one of the most beautiful villages in France. We walked the cobblestone streets and enjoyed seeing the cafes and listening to the music that was playing in the square. They also have amazing macaroons and we treated ourselves to a bag which I’m positive will be consumed before we arrive back in the states. Our tour guides treated us to wine and we enjoyed a glass while sitting under a huge Linden Tree.

We saw graves in the town that looked like children had been buried there. But in actuality adults were buried there and they were buried in the embryo position – all curled up so therefore the grave was very small.

On our way back to the cruise ship we visited Munster in Alsace. The town of Munster has a dual population: humans live in charming medieval houses; white storks and their half-ton nests rule the rooftops. Yes – half ton nests!

In the 1970s the white stork population had dwindled down to a mere 12 birds. Though flocks of the white storks resided elsewhere in the world, they had all but disappeared from the region most closely identified with them. Today, one of the most successful repopulation programs of its kind has restored the beloved white stork to the Alsace and Lorraine region, with at least 600 pairs nesting this year on the roofs and treetops of its picturesque villages.

As you can imagine, some of the residents in the town are not happy that storks are building nests on the rooftops. The weight of the nest can be detrimental to the roof, not to mention the white poop that inevitably builds up. But the stork is said to bring luck to a home where they nest, so I guess that is worth the inconvenience.

Munster is not only the home of storks. It is also the home of Munster cheese. Unfortunately, we didn’t get an opportunity to sample any. We made our way back to the cruise ship and we enjoyed amazing French cuisine replete with escargot and pork Wellington.

Our guide mentioned that a laser show would be taking place at the Cathedral this evening. Allan and I decided that we would like to take the tram back into town at 10:15 pm and see it and eight of our friends decided to join us. One of the other tour guides also accompanied us and it was well worth the trip. The laser show was choreographed to music and the show was spectacular. We were so happy that we made the trip into the town because it was an opportunity to see something we probably will never experience again.

Most of the ship was asleep by the time we returned, so we treated ourselves to a hot chocolate and went off to bed. It was an end to an absolutely unforgettable day in France.

12 Jul 2015  Baden baden   Speyer

I forgot to mention that before we left for the laser show last night, a local couple came onboard and regaled us with French songs and accordion playing. They were very good and considering the accordion is an instrument that most people don’t want to hear…the music was excellent.

We spent a leisurely morning enjoying Sunday breakfast of eggs Benedict and just relaxing before eating our next meal…lunch. I hope the counter at delta doesn’t charge us extra on our return trip with the added poundage that we will be most assuredly be carrying on our bodies.

Let me take a few moments to tell you about our river boat. The crew is amazing. Very accommodating and from the second day the wait staff remembered our names and what our preferences were. Very impressive. The ship is immaculate and the food is delicious. There is an upper sun deck and a lovely lounge to retire to when one just wants to read…or knit in my case.

At night we have been joining an Asian group of folks who love to dance so I have been enjoying doing the electric slide and the Lindy with them. Unfortunately allan injured his foot the first night in our cabin and has not been able to do much dancing. It is getting better so no worries.

We have enjoyed meeting many people but we met a group of Canadians whose company we enjoy and the feeling must be mutual as they insist we join them each night for dinner. They also happen to be assigned to our tour guide so we are with them quite a bit.

Bob, who was a superintendent in a school district in Canada told me he woke up in the middle of the night last night and since he couldn’t get back to sleep, spent some time thinking of a title for the book they all think I should write…about my adventures over the years. LOL! (And Val and Mike…Bob might be my new agent. They love the jokes I’ve been telling. I’ll be here all week folks. HAHA!!!).

After lunch we boarded our bus and drove through the Black Forest. The forest is comprised of dense spruce trees which, because of their density, make the forest seem black. There is a restricted timber industry in the forest and for every tree that is cut down, a new one must be planted to replace it.

The forest is part of a national park although some private homes do exist there. There are animals found in the forest…lynx, wild boar and very occasionally, a deer will be sighted. Two unusual specimens reside in the forest: the Baden worm and the Black Forest fox. The Baden worm can get to be over six feet long…I guess a real find for fishermen and the fox is not a fox but rather a horse that is used to carry timber through the forest.

The Black Forest is known for smoked ham which is smoked using beechwood. Schnapps is also made here…most especially cherry, pear, and apple.

The Brothers Grimm wove their fairy tales with their dreadful endings here inspired by this dark yet magical forest. The forest has a majestic quality and as we drove up the mountainous road we were able to appreciate its beauty up close and personal.

We then drove to the town of Baden Baden in the foothills of the Black Forest. Baden Baden is perhaps the wealthiest town in Germany. It is known for its hot springs that were originally utilized by the Romans. During the 19th century, the town became a mecca for celebrities and famous people like Queen Victoria and Dostoyevsky who were drawn to Baden Baden because of the luxury hotels and the hot springs. In later years, Ernest Hemingway and U.S. Presidents found their way to this idyllic spot.

We watched elite women strolling by dressed in fancy hats, high heels and lovely dresses as they entered into the high class hotels or high priced stores.

We found a biergarten and enjoyed some dark beer, sausage, German potato salad and a soft pretzel while we people watched. The sausage was outstanding as was the potato salad and the beer was delicious.

We had dinner back on the ship…something we really didn’t need. I ordered Filo pastry stuffed with a ragout of ham and leek, risotto with clams, German beef roulade and a cheese platter for dessert. Waay too much eating going on.

The program directors performed some skits for us after dinner and we had a quick German lesson. Then it was off to bed to dream of the Black Forest and its magical spells.

13 Jul 2015 Speyer, Germany

Today we woke up bright and early and joined thirty other fellow travelers to attend a church service to listen to the nuns of the church sing. Our guide said that the nuns at the church sing beautifully and that it would be a very special “must hear”. We were wondering if they would be singing “How Do You Solve A Problem Like Maria” from the Sound of Music (haha) so of course we had to go. The Kloster St. Magdalena church was beautiful, however, it was actually just a catholic mass where the sisters did indeed sing, but it was not a performance as we all thought it would be. We came back to the ship, had a quick breakfast and then off again for the guided tour of Speyer.

Our first stop was the Imperial Cathedral of Speyer. The cathedral has maintained its overall form since the 11th century, despite substantial damage due to many wars. The building is balanced with two pairs of tall towers and is indeed the major landmark of the city.

In front of the cathedral there is a large stone cup that was filled with wine whenever a new Bishop was instituted. The townsfolk were invited to partake of the wine which was offered all day long. Unfortunately, since it was free wine…it became a free for all at times and people were crushed while trying to get their wine. Pretzels are sold all over Speyer. The pretzel is the symbol of the holy trinity and in fact, one of the statues on the front of the cathedral depicts a woman holding a pretzel.

The town is very quaint with many half timbered homes. These homes were cheaper to build than their stone cousins. The first floor of the home was usually stone and the second floor was made of half timbers which were filled in with hay, straw and…manure! Yikes!!! The wood used was usually oak timbers. The problem with using straw, hay and manure to fill in between the wooden timbers was that it was very flammable. The kitchen was always on the first floor that was made of stone…but the smoke always wafted upwards to the other floors. This was obviously not the greatest for the folks living upstairs..but it helped to keep insects out of the home.

On the timbered area of the home, you could see an emperor chair motif. If the chair was a complete one, it depicted wealth and the more “chairs” in the front of the home showed wealth indeed. It also meant the home owner was taxed more. Some homes only had half chairs.

On the evening before Epiphany, teens would go to homes and offer to place the date and the initials C, M, B over the door for a small fee. The initials stand for the names of the three kings…Caspar, Melchior, and Balthasar…however according to the church, the initials mean Christus Mansionem Benedictat meaning “Christ bless this home”.

There are beautiful shutters on many of the older homes. The purpose of the shutters is not for storm protection as not many big storms come through the area. The purpose is threefold: To protect from robbers, to keep the sun out in summer, and to keep heat in during the winter.

There are huge stone buttresses on some corners of buildings and these were placed years ago to protect the building from when the carriages went by too close to the corner of the building.

There was a municipality maypole in the center of town which differs from a personal maypole. The municipality maypole is a way for businesses to advertise. The personal maypole is when a young man falls in love and takes a piece of spruce tree and plants it in his lovers backyard. The girl would see it and know someone was in love with her.

This afternoon we had a home hosted visit. Anyone who wanted to participate in the home visit was assigned a family and no more than eight people went on the visit. The families get a small compensation for hosting…certainly not enough to make it lucrative. They do it to learn more about people from other cultures and to share their own culture with us as we were able to ask questions and to find out more about them.

Our German home visit was shared with four others from our ship and we met Crystal and Bernard. Their home was quite lovely…very spacious and sunny. They had a large backyard where they showed off their many flowering plants and herbs. Bernard was a gym teacher and geography teacher who recently retired and he also does beautiful calligraphy, makes boomerangs and collects them. Crystal is still teaching and specializes in children with disabilities and works to integrate them into the mainstream of elementary school.

Bernard baked an amazing raspberry tart and a chocolate cake where red wine made up 1/8th of the cake. My kind of guy! We had tea and coffee and then Crystal asked if we would like to try some wines from a local vineyard. Of course we said Yes! The white wine was delicious and I wish we could have gone to the winery to purchase some to bring home.

The couple chatted about their lives in Germany and their family. They were very hospitable and they loved the gift that we brought to them. (A potholder, two placemats with Pennsylvania motif on them and a grocery bag for carrying veggies, etc that we bought from Wegmans, with beautiful photos of vegetables on it. Crystal said she shops for veggies all the time and it will be wonderful to carry the produce in).

The visit was much too short. We said our goodbyes after about an hour and a half and then got back on the bus and we all shared our experience. It was a lot of fun!

14 Jul 2015

Last night Jocelyn and Bob (our Canadian friends) and Allan and I decided to skip dinner onboard and instead, go into town where a Pretzel Festival was going on. There was no charge to get in…you just entered into a huge area filled with arcades, rides, pretzel stands, biergartens, and food stands of every kind…from pizza to Mein Thai (which I thought was rather clever).

We walked through the carnival and then found an area that was serving food so we sat down amid loud laughing and music. As we waited for the waitress, we tried to decider

the German menu. We figured anything ending in a “wurst” couldn’t be bad…but the menu still was pretty untranslatable. To make matters worse, the poor waitress was one of two and was very hassled. She arrived at our table to take our order and when she realized we didn’t speak German…I thought she was going to cry!! We finally gave her our beer order and we were still trying to figure out the menu when I told Jocelyn to ask the people at the next table if any of them spoke English. One young girl said she did…but then realized, translating the menu into English was beyond her capabilities.

As we sipped our beers, someone else joined them at their table and they explained our plight to him. Between us all…with hand gestures and lots of laughs..we got him to understand that all we wanted was brat wurst.

Before we knew it…the man had gone off to where they sold brats in another food area and came back with four on delicious bread and ceremoniously placed them on our table. We thanked him over and over and paid him the money we owed him and then enjoyed some of the best sausages we’ve ever had.

Our Canadian friends and Allan and I talked for quite awhile, sipping beer and getting to know each other better. We got up to leave and said danke to the German who fed us and wished them all farewell and slowly walked back to our ship. (Which might be due to the amount of beer we consumed. HaHa!).

It was a great evening.a local Biergarten tomorrow.  

This morning after breakfast we went on the top deck for a beautiful cruise down the Rhine complete with commentary by one of the tour guides from the bridge.

The castles, churches, and villages were amazing to see. The lush countryside, with vineyards cascading down the steep mountainsides were all truly sights to behold. The villages looked like you could pick them up and save to place under your Christmas tree and the churches with their tall steeples as silhouettes in front of the blue gray skies were magnificent. It was chilly on deck this morning, but with hot chocolates and jackets, we were comfortable.

We passed by the famous Lorelei rock on the eastern bank of the Rhine. According to legend, a siren sat on the cliff above the Rhine and combed her golden hair. Unwittingly, she distracted shipmen with her beauty and song, causing them to crash on the rocks. Our program director Steven came out dressed as the siren…enticing the men and providing some great picture ops.

We arrived in the town of Boppard and went on a walking tour. We walked along the waterfront where beautiful flowers and even some grape vines graced the walkway. Boppard is the birthplace of Michael Thonet, born 1796. He wasn’t only a carpenter but also was a furniture manufacturer. Thonet experimented with wood, steam and pressure. He invented the famous bentwood furniture known for its lightness which was in stark contrast to the massive wooden furniture of the time.

We also stopped by the Carmelite church which was a monastery. The Carmelite monks gave away everything they owned…including their shoes and they always walked barefoot…even in the winter. Outside the church is a chapel of the Madonna of the Grapes. The statue has been walked through the streets for the past six hundred years and adorned with grape vines to assure a fruitful year.

We decided to stay in town for lunch and we both ordered an amazing dish that I can’t even begin to pronounce no less spell..but trust me, it was delicious. Then we also shared a frikadellen…which is a pork meatball. My grandma used to make them so it brought back memories.

Boppard is known for the Riesling wines. Steven our guide pointed out a shop that sold Riesling ice cream so of course we had to sample it. I also had the bitter chocolate cone. Both were delicious.

Food is very reasonable here. Our lunch…including the ice cream cones…was all of eight dollars and sixty cents!!

This afternoon we took an optional tour to the Marksburg Castle. Marksburg Castle is the only hill castle on the Thine that has never been destroyed. It has been lived in for over 700 years. It was quite a steep walk all around the castle and the walkways and stairs were stone and quite uneven. It was very interesting to see the furniture, kitchen, bedroom, and garden. Of interest was the “out house” which hung outside one of the rooms…from the second story. All of the “honey” went right down to the outside…and stayed there until the spring rains came each year to wash it away. Yikes!!!!

Tonight we walked to another Biergarten and had a fun evening with our friends. Steven our Program director and our hotel manager Jasenka sat with us as well and allan and I treated them. We all enjoyed talking and telling stories from where we live and stayed until 10:30.. Our waitress Zorica kids with us everyday and tonight at dinner, some of the tables were looking over at our table and wondering what all the laughing was about. (I think the Canadians and Allan and I are getting the reputation of party animals and that’s why the staff like us. What’s not to like??? Haha!  

15 Jul 2015

Today we sailed to Cochem on the Mosel River. Once again, a quaint and beautiful German town with colorful homes and with windows adorned with flowers in window boxes on almost every facade.In the morning we took a tour of Reichsburg Castle, believed to have been constructed in the eleventh century. The castle was burned to the ground by King Louis XIV of France. The castle was finally restored by an entrepreneur who converted it to a summer home for the wife he adored and their three children. Unfortunately, his wife had other ideas and fell in love with another man, left her children and never once saw the new home. She divorced (unheard of in that era) married her lover and they had nine children, which my guide said, was probably her punishment. LOL! The husband was so distraught from the loss of his love and the humiliation of it all in society, that he only lived another two years. The children inherited the estate including the castle and for many years used it as a summer home themselves. Right now, the town of Cochem owns the castle and is very involved with its restoration. Only the tower is the original part of the castle today and is over 1,000 years old.

In one of the rooms, there was a locked door that led down to the woman’s chamber. But there was no keyhole for a key to unlatch the door. How to get the door open by the man who wanted to pay the lady a visit? Our guide said the hint was in the carved lady on the door who was rather buxom. One of our tourists poked the woman but that didn’t open the door. Another man suggested that the bosom be “caressed” and viola…the latch opened. (I am proud to say that the man offering the caressing solution was none other than…my husband. Who knew????)

The castle was filled with magnificent furniture that was intricately carved and the sun streamed through beautifully stained glass windows in every room. There was no wallpaper on the walls…everything was hand painted including the ceilings. There was a balcony that overlooked the Mosel River and the view was stunning.

After seeing the castle, we walked through the town of Cochem. We paused at St Martin’s Church where there is a plaque on the outside wall to remember Crystal Night during the war, when the Nazis broke the plate glass of Jewish shops and broke the crystal chandeliers in the synagogues. The other side of the plaque honors the Jewish people who were forced to leave Cochem during the war, and never returned. There is a rooster atop the church that usually signifies that the church is Protestant, but in this case, St Martins is Roman Catholic.  

After the guided tour, Allan and I went off on our own and enjoyed a Turkish Döner Kabap, a sort of shish kebab in pita bread, that has now become the German national fast food. OMG…delicious. They slice the lamb off of a huge hunk of meat that is being cooked on a stick. The pita was soft and light and the sandwich was filled with red cabbage, onion, and a spicy garlic sauce. Yummy!

On the return to the shop our guide told us to pause on a staircase by the river and take a picture of the castle in the distance. There is a weathervane witch on a home by the staircase and if you get the right angle, it looks like the witch is flying over the castle. I think I captured it.

After that, we went to the mustard store and tasted about twenty different mustards…finally deciding that the Riesling wine mustard was the one to buy.

It was all aboard late afternoon and before we sailed, ice cream and cake was served in the lounge. It looked delicious but I didn’t have any. Still stuffed from lunch

16 Jul 2015 Bernkastel, Germany

Last night after dinner, the Captain gave an interesting talk about sailing and about this ship in particular. He said it was one of his favorite ships to sail in as it has a charm of its own with all the wood and beautiful cabins, etc. He also said that the newer ships, with all the computers, sometimes fail miserably during a cruise…whereas this ship is always dependable. The Captain is very young…41 years of age…and he has been a Captain for ten years. Really amazing. After his talk, Allan and I stood and chatted with him for almost forty minutes and he told stories of the ships he has sailed and some of the close calls he has been in. He was very impressed with Allan’s comprehension of some of the physics that he was mentioning. He told Allan that Allan was the only guest he has ever spoken with who actually comprehended what he was talking about in terms of thrust and wave motion influences. That’s my guy! (Thanks to Ned O’Connor, Allan’s physics teacher in High school. )

The weather has been amazing everyday so far. Not too hot…a breeze and plenty of sunshine. Our guide Steven said that last year at this time, it rained everyday for this tour…so we are lucky indeed.

Today we sailed into the town of Bernkastel, Germany. Bernkastel is the twin city of Kues and the area is a well known wine region on the Mosel. The town has several squares…each one prettier than the one before. As a matter of fact, every German town so far has been amazingly clean, filled with fresh flowers and…romantic. Strolling through the streets and peeking inside the shops, bakeries and restaurants is a wonderful experience. On our walking tour today, we passed a building that used to be the train station and is now a restaurant where Harley Davidson bikers frequent when they come into town. The funny thing is…their signature meal is quiche! So much for a hearty meal for burly bikers.

Vineyards are growing up and down the extremely steep slopes of the countryside. The vines are planted into the slate of the mountain and this slate provides the warmth for the roots of the vines and also gives the wine, in some cases, its aroma. Since the grapes are growing on such a steep incline, the grapes at harvest time must be picked by hand. German students and migrant workers are hired at harvest time  to hand pick the grapes. Some vineyards have a monorail type system that allows equipment to be transported up and down the mountainside. There is no irrigation system on these hillsides as it is not needed. You would think that erosion would be a problem on these steep mountainsides, but to the contrary, the roots of the vines prevent this…sometimes burrowing into the slate and dirt some twenty feet.

We passed a building that had a basket tethered to the third story with a pulley system that would allow the basket to be raised and lowered. Steven said that years ago, the building was an orphanage and if a mother didn’t want her new born baby, she would place it in the pillow lined basket and the ladies in the orphanage would hoist the little one up and take him/her inside. That was one legend. The next legend was more practical. It was said that an elderly lady lived in the building and could no longer go up and down the stairs to walk her chihuahua, so she used the basket to lower the dog so he could tend to his bodily functions.

We visited a winery and had a tasting of four wines grown in the region. They were very good…and apparently we are able to purchase them in the U.S. We tasted a Pinot Noir, a Riesling Spatlese Trocken, a Riesling Spatlese and a Riesling Auslese. All but one were a little too sweet for my taste. They also sell wines under the label Berncasteler Doctor…from a doctor who cured a man with wine. (Legend has it that the sick man drank about three gallons a day of the stuff and after having been sick for years…was finally cured of his ailment. My take on this is that the guy was probably so drunk he didn’t know if he was sick or not. I guess drinking that much in a day would cure you of anything…except of course cirrhosis)!

One of the vintners of this winery during the war, built a wall over a part where bottles of wine were stored so that the Nazis would not take the wine and either drink it or smash the bottles. Years later, after the war, the man who subsequently purchased the winery met a man in town who asked about the hidden room. This man knew about the room as his grandfather had helped build the secret enclosure during the war. The vintner had no clue..and went back to his winery and with a sledge hammer, broke down parts of the wall…until he did indeed find the hidden stash of wine. The wine is still there…some of it going back to 1921. In 1986 one bottle was auctioned off at Christies for a pretty penny.

It is amazing to me that no matter what street you walk down…you can always see vines of grapes strung over the windows, cascading down light poles, and gracing doorways. The vines probably don’t produce much in the way of grapes, but they are beautiful to see.

Steven then took us on a tour of a local supermarket and we saw pigshead in a jar. The Germans spread this on their morning toast. I believe in our country it’s called headcheese. Yuck!

Allan and I stayed in town to sample German pizza…delicious. And we also treated ourselves to the cookie named Americana…a soft cake-like cookie made with butter and iced with a delicious glaze.

Upon our return to the ship we learned how to fold napkins and make towel animals. Then, It was a tour of the galley. The head chef is so tall, his hair grazes the ceiling of the kitchen. The food has been excellent and the menu choices, while limited, are varied and usually are indigenous of the country we are in.

Allan went off for a massage and I went for high tea. We are looking forward to the Bavarian dinner buffet tonight.

17 Jul 2015 Trier, Germany

We took a bus into Trier and our guide Steven shared some interesting facts. Many of the homes in Trier have been built over ancient Roman ruins. However, if a person comes across ruins while building his home, he is hesitant to share this knowledge and many times does not, because the construction of his home would immediately be stopped while the authorities figure out the date of the ruins and whether they are important enough to preserve. many times, construction could be halted permanently.

There are four types of high schools and the students must take a test to determine which school they belong in. If you don’t score very well, you go to the high school that specializes in trades. If you do a little better on the exam…you go to the school for administrative teachings. If you score well..you go to the high school that will allow you to continue your studies at university, and if you score tops…your education after high school will be to continue for advanced degrees.

The parking garages have an interesting and practical feature. There is an electronic sign outside that tells you how many parking spaces are still available, so you don’t have to drive in only to find out…no more spaces left.

After arriving in Trier, we did a walking tour with a local guide who was so boring we thought we might scream. We all wished that Steven would have taken over as we missed his wonderful and informative commentary. I won’t bore you with the details of the guides talk, but the places we visited were beautiful to see.

1. Porta Nigra. . The mighty Porta Nigra is nearly all that remains of the old Roman fortifications except for some stretches of the city wall. It is said to be the largest city gate north of the Alps

2. St. Peter’s Cathedral – The imposing fortress like Cathedral has its roots in Roman times. It was built in sections, rather than in one single construction. Absolutely magnificent inside.
3. Hauptmarkt – The focal part of town
4. Constantine Basilica – If there is one building in Trier which will give you an idea of the impressive building skills of the Roman Empire it is the Konstantinbasilka.
5. The House of the Three Kings – It was built in 1230 but the outlook today comes from later reconstruction. The name of the house stems from the 17th century. From the beginning there was no entrance on the ground floor but on the first floor only. That was because at the time of building, the city wall was not yet finished so the inhabitants in every house had to defend themselves. A ladder or a wooden staircase that could be pulled up had to be used. The old entrance is visible beside the windows.
6. The Jewish Quarter – Named for the four Jewish families that settled in Trier, in 1235 CE. These families had their four small houses built here, one next to the other. Building adjoining houses allowed them to construct a common escape tunnel, leading to the St. Gangolf cathedral, to be used if there were any threats being made against them by any unscrupulous villagers. There, the local Bishop offered them protection.
7. Stumbling blocks – These memorial-stones (so-called Stolpersteine or stumbling blocks) commemorate: Erna Reinhardt, Hilda Reinhardt, Maria Reinhardt, persecuted or murdered by the Nazis.  

Local teens , from a town of 1600 people, came to perform for us this evening. They were too cute for the room. At the end of their performance …they all went into the audience and asked folks to dance. Of course, one young man, eighteen years old came over to me and asked me to dance.

Last night I got up with a few others and had to take a small bottle of liquor, put the cap on my nose, extend my arms out , put the bottle in my mouth tilt my head back and drink the contents. The stuff was pretty potent…but quite tasty.

I’ll be here all week folks!!!

18 Jul 2015 Zell, Germany

What a fabulous day!!!! We decided not to take the optional tour to Luxembourg and we are so happy we made that decision. We are in the quaint town of Zell and one of the tour guides, Rebecca, gave a guided tour for those of us who remained behind.

We walked thru Zell and as luck would have it, today is the once a year Long Table Festival where all the restaurants and shopkeepers set out tables on the Main Street right down the middle of the street and you can sit down and have something to eat and drink. Wunderbar!!!

We went for a walk along the River Promenade which afforded a beautiful view of the Mosel and the homes along the way. Our first stop was the former synagogue. In 1850, the Jewish community established a small prayer hall in a section of an old, local castle. Later, as more Jews settled in Zell, the community decided to build a new synagogue but construction was halted with the outbreak of World War I. The interior of the synagogue was destroyed on Pogrom Night (November 1938), but its exterior was not torched for fear of damaging the castle. The Jewish community was dissolved in 1939. Those who did not manage to escape Germany perished in the Shoah. Restoration of the synagogue building was completed in 2003; the site now serves as a memorial. There was a Torah on display and also gilded stumbling blocks in memory of some of the Jews who perished. Also, on a clay book, the list of the Jews from the community who were killed in concentration camps were listed. Our guide Rebecca is Jewish and she sang a song Shabbat Shalom for us.

Today in Germany, the school children, as part of their curriculum, are taken to a concentration camp to have them realize the atrocities that took place in history in the hopes that the young people will remember and learn how hatred is an atrocity as well.

We walked through the streets and our guide chatted with a German couple who were enjoying a bottle of Riesling. They spoke little English…but the man offered her a taste of his wine…which she did drink. They were very friendly..despite the language barrier.

We walked along and saw the Black Cat fountain that many wines in the area are named after…and the bottles are even shaped like a cat. From there we walked up to the cemetery which afforded a glorious view of the town, the river, and the vineyards. One can appreciate from that vantage point how steep the mountainside is where the vines are growing.

After the guided tour, Allan and I went off to find something to eat…and who do we see still sitting at the table where we left them? The German couple…still drinking wine! We of course stopped and sat with them and ordered frikadellen with potato salad and of course, Riesling. Well…the man didn’t speak much English as we knew, but we did find out he was once a professional soccer player and won many tournaments and played in world tournaments as well. His name is Dieter Baumanns and he has travelled to New York and Chicago to play in his younger days. He showed us pictures of his days as a star soccer player. We shared photos of our families and he even offered me his wine glass to sip his wine, which I did and enjoyed as well. (I can hear the collected gasps of my boys!!)

Dieter said when at the Mosel River…you drink wine, but throughout the rest if Germany, you drink beer. I’ll drink to that!

We then went up the street to have apple strudel that was soooooo delicious, then on to a winemaking museum and then back to the ship for a little rest before our afternoon bonus activity.

In the afternoon we took a covered wagon ride pulled by a tractor up to the top of the mountainside for a birds eye view of Zell…drinking wine along the way. For most of the ride we were so close to the edge, I thought we would surely plummet over.

The driver ave a very interesting talk about the Riesling wine area, how the grapes are picked in October, and how helicopters spray for mold. There are four million vines in Zell and each vine produces one bottle. Another fabulous day in wine country.

July 19, 2015

Today we are in Bonn, Germany, birthplace of Beethoven. Founded by the Romans, Bonn was the provisional capital of West Germany from the years following WW II until Germany’s reunification in 1990. Today is Sunday and all the shops are closed, but it was still lovely, since the streets were empty.

A large student population lives near the University of Bonn and as we went on our morning tour, we passed a church near the campus, whose bells were tolling telling people that the church service would be starting. During WW II the university suffered heavy damage. An air raid on October 18, 1944 destroyed the main building. The university was re-opened on November 17, 1945 as one of the first in the British occupation zone. Currently, University of Bonn is ranked 94th internationally.

We passed the home where Beethoven was born and then walked on to see the Altes Rathaus or City Hall. The impressive Rococo style building dominates the market place and has been witness to very important events. In 1962 both Charles de Gaulle, the French President and one year later US President John F. Kennedy delivered an address here. Steven our guide had us place our cameras on the ground and told us to all pose on the steps. Then, he patiently took a picture with each and every camera for us. This guide is amazing!!!!!!!

Then, thirteen of us decided to take a train into Cologne, Germany by ourselves. The tickets were 11 euros for a one way ticket…but if you had a group of five, you could get a round ticket for a total of 25 euro for all. Quite a savings. 5 euro round trip per person!! Since we had thirteen of us, we purchased three tickets, but our tickets were never collected either way on the train.

The highlight of Cologne is the Cathedral. This magnificent structure took over six hundred years to complete and renovations are constantly going on. The cathedral suffered fourteen hits by aerial bombs during WW II. Badly damaged, it nevertheless remained standing in an otherwise completely flattened city. The twin spires were an easily recognizable navigational landmark for Allied aircraft bombing. Words can’t begin to describe it, so I will let the photos speak for themselves.

Afterwards we went to a brauhaus for lunch…sausages again that were delicious and of course beer. In these places, if you don’t put your coaster on top of your beer glass when you are done…the waiter will just keep filling the glass up and charging you for it. After lunch, Allan and I went on our own to walk around and people watch. We stopped at a small cafe for apple cake and cappuccino and were treated to a classical music concert by some street performers. When you go into a cafe, you point out what dessert you would like and you are given a ticket with the number of your dessert on it. When the waiter comes he looks at the ticket and brings you what you picked out. Pretty neat.

We walked back to the train station to catch our train back to Bonn, but we were given misinformation from both the train schedule and the person at the ticket booth about what track our train would be coming in on. So after waiting on the wrong track for awhile, we finally got on the right train. (The train that came onto the wrong track we were waiting on was going to Paris. Oh well…we had to get back to the ship. Perhaps another day on another tour…oui??? ).

July 20, 2015

This morning we woke up in The Netherlands and after breakfast, we went on the walking tour. The walking tours are very informative and everyone is able to hear the guide since earphones are provided to each guest. The guide speaks into a microphone so that we can all hear what he is saying through our earbuds.

There is a festival going on this week in Nijmegen and they were partying last night in the streets. Since The Netherlands is very clean, there were sweepers this morning cleaning up already for the new day of partying. There were urinals around the streets the men can use right out in the open. There is no “wild peeing” going on, since if caught, a fine must be paid of 150 euros.

We walked thru a residential district and noticed the mailboxes with stickers on them. This is how the residents control junk mail. They put a sticker on their mailbox depicting either…”no newspaper OR junk mail”, or a sticker that says “no junk mail but newspaper allowed”, and some mailboxes had nothing which meant that they were willing to receive anything sent to them. Years ago you could purchase stickers and kids as a prank would put them on the mailboxes that had no sticker on them. (Our guide Steven confessed he was one of those kids). However, now you must show proof of your address before you are able to purchase a sticker.

We walked on to a memorial commemorating the over 400 Jewish residents of Nijmegen who were murdered in the Holocaust. The square is named after Kitty de Wijze who died in Auschwitz on December 15, 1942 and there is a statue of her in a gated area. Steven, who comes from The Netherlands, said he is embarrassed to say that even though with the popularity of the diary of Anne Frank and the Dutch supposedly sheltering the Jews during the Nazi realm, that really isn’t true. Many of the Dutch betrayed their Jewish friends, classmates and neighbors to the authorities so that they could receive the little bit of monetary compensation from the Nazis and also to get into their good graces. The monument was very poignant with not only the statue, but also a tombstone with a beautiful saying on it that our guide read to us. “Talk about the war and I will weep. Talk about the war 100 times and I will weep 100 times”. In the square are also bronze plaques with the names of the hundreds of Jews from Nijmegen who perished during the holocaust.

There are no drugs in The Netherlands that are legal..however, soft drugs like marijuana are “tolerated”. They are sold in shops all over. The philosophy is that it is safer to buy the drugs in a store rather than go to a dark alley for a shady deal. Also, the government puts a tax on what is sold in these stores so it also makes out pretty well. The marijuana is always mixed with tobacco as it is very potent; it is never smoked pure.

Ecstasy became a big problem in The Netherlands and kids were dying after consuming pills in discos that were very potent and deadly. Now, when they go to the discos, they can show their ecstasy pills to the policeman at the entrance, and he can test it and tell you if it is indeed a safe form of the pill. Even though the kids use the soft drugs, drug use in The Netherlands is by far less than most other European countries.

Dutch universities for the most part are public. The Dutch government gives each student a monthly stipend and transportation money. If the student doesn’t graduate in five years, all the money is then considered a loan and must be paid back.

In Dutch families, the children are ousted from the house at the age of 18. The kids then usually find other kids to live with and share apartments together. When the last child is ousted…the parents throw a big party to celebrate. The children can come back to visit…usually bringing their laundry, and the parents give them food to take home…but they no longer are responsible for them monetarily. Wow!

We walked on to the market square where years ago, anyone thought to be a witch was put to death. How did one find out if one was a witch? If the person in question, either male or female, weighed less than 110 pounds (they were weighed publicly at the weighing station in the square) they were thought to be a witch because they were light enough to fly on a broom. Witches were then placed in chains and thrown in the river. If they drowned, they were proclaimed innocent, albeit too late…but if they survived and were able to swim to the other side…they were indeed a witch and were sometimes caught again and killed. Yikes!

We passed the Blue Hand Pub which got its name from the fact that fabric was dyed blue indigo down the block from the pub and the workers all had blue hands. When they got paid once a week…they went to the pub to drink beer and all the mugs had the blue imprint of their hands.

Allan and I forgot to take our boarding passes with us this morning when we left the ship. The boarding pass is really just a calling card with your name and cabin number written in hand on it. You always have to remember them…because when the ship sails, if your boarding pass is not accounted for…they will track you down…first by calling local hospitals and then police stations. However, the system is a little skewed since, had the ship left when we were still out and about…having forgotten our passes…the ship would have sailed without us, thinking we were onboard. On the big cruise ships, you have to have your boarding pass scanned before leaving the ship and scanned again upon your return. This boarding pass system on Grand Circle is the only complaint we have and we will suggest that it perhaps it could be changed. (Only because we really were happy that we weren’t on the shore waving good-bye to our ship as it left to cruise down the Rhine thinking the Leslies were safely onboard!)

After lunch two of the program directors took a group of us on a spontaneous sampling tour throughout the town because of the festival in town. First stop..a thin waffle like cookie with caramel inside. Second stop…licorice – both sweet and salted. Third stop – a taste of sausage. Fourth stop – a glass of beer at the Blue Hand Pub. Last stop was a typical coffee shop in The Netherlands, that sells pot. We had a wonderful time…if you get the gist!

All in all..another amazing day on the Rhine!!!

21 Jul 2015

I forgot to mention that yesterday, on our spontaneous tasting tour, we also stopped at a herring stand and Steven took one of the fish and put it right down his gullet. Lovely. (Yuck)! Needless to say, I passed that stand up.

Today we are in south Holland…a provence of The Netherlands. Most people think the country is Holland, but it is not. The country is The Netherlands and two of the twelve provinces in the Netherlands are called Holland.  

We started our morning tour in Kinderdijk, along canals where windmills are. The windmills are still inhabited by millers – sometimes their parents were millers, but others must pass a course in order to work the windmill. The windmill sails have to rotate at least 60 thousand times in a year and there is a person who monitors this and if you fall behind, you have to work to get back on track. The outside of the windmill must be kept as originally built, but you can do anything you would like inside. There is usually a bedroom, living room and now a kitchen inside and also floors above the first floor that can be used as bedrooms as well. Years ago, there was a kitchen house quite a distance from the windmill to prevent fires. The inhabitants pay a small amount in rent. Most of the mills were built in the early 1700’s and there are about one thousand windmills left in The Netherlands.

The top of the windmill rotates around, depending on the wind direction. The miller, using a huge wheel similar to a ships wheel, steers the sails and places them where he wants them and then secures them to concrete “mushrooms” to keep them in place. When someone dies, the top sail is placed at the eleven o’clock position on a clock and when there is a birth, the sale is placed at the one o’clock position. Fire is a major problem because if the sails pick up too much speed the friction can cause the mill to catch fire and since it is made of wood or thatch, it usually burns down. There is also an emergency brake to stop the sails from spinning, but usually the mill will still burn because of the friction.

Steven spoke about the Christmas tradition in the Netherlands, which is quite different from ours, thankfully. St Nicholas doesn’t have elves, but has black slaves as helpers. He comes by horse and puts candy in the wooden shoes left outside. Then at some point during the night, a bag of toys will be left for good children. But if you’ve been bad, no toys are left and instead, the child will be placed in the empty bag and taken away to become a black slave. Merry Freakin Christmas little ones!!! Yikes!!! As you can imagine, Steven said, this tradition is quite controversial, not only in that it scares the little ones into being good say child psychologists, but it is also extremely racist. No duh?

Steven showed us an authentic wooden shoe. Contrary to popular belief, the shoes are not painted with designs like we always see. Rather, they are left unpainted because they only lasted about three months and new ones would have to be carved. They are made out of the willow tree and were much cheaper than the leather shoes of the time.

After lunch, we boarded the ship again and sailed to Willemstad, named in honor of William of Orange a beloved ruler. It is a beautiful town surrounded by water and we walked along and watched the yachts and sailing ships go by. Willemstad has always been used as a defensive location because of its position in the waterway. The town was fortified by mountains of earth rather than brick walls because a wall would crumble when hit by an exploding shell, but the earth absorbs the shock and remains.

Willemstad is a rich city with many millionaires because the town won a government run lottery. The government had the towns play their postal codes and Willemstad won some years ago.

Because the town is surrounded by water, it has suffered severe flooding over the years, the most devastating in 1953 when more than 1800 people lost their lives. The Dutch said “never again,” and constructed the Delta Works. The Provence was once a collection of islands, but now through the Delta works, the islands are connected and protected by a series of dams, dikes and bridges.

We walked down rosemary street where the prostitutes used to work. It is so named for the rosemary that grew there and the girls made rosemary water to sprinkle on themselves to smell more enticing. Prostitution is legal in The Netherlands. Also, gay marriage has been recognized since the seventies and abortion is also legal during the first trimester.

Allan and I walked hand and hand down lovers lane and by doing so our love will last forever so the legend says. Many people get married in the church at the end of the long walk and then walk hand and hand down the walk so their marriage will last.

When we arrived back to the ship one of the guides asked if we would like to be interviewed by the local newspaper. We said of course and a young man interviewed us. Too bad we won’t see our names in print in the local paper as we are leaving the Netherlands for Belgium tonight.

Tonight was the Captains Farewell Dinner replete with filet mignon and baked Alaska. Afterwards we were treated to a show put on by the staff which was a hoot. Synchronized swimmers behind “water”, singing, skits and just a lot of goofy fun.

22 Jul 2015 Antwerp, Belgium

Today for our last port on our amazing trip, we are in Antwerp, Belguim. No we are no longer on the Rhine but on the Schelde river.

Belgium was conquered many times over the centuries. The Kingdom of Belgium has three official languages: Dutch, French and German. A number of non-official, minority languages and dialects are spoken as well, including Flemish.

There are many bicycles in Antwerp and you can rent them all over. The first half hour is free and then you start paying.

We rode the oldest escalator in Belgium which is made of wood. It takes you down to where you can cross the river on an underground pathway. We just rode the elevator and then came back up.

There are many lights throughout the town with a statue of Mary being illuminated by them. This is because there was a tax on lights…but you were exempt from the tax if it lit up a a statue of Mary, the patron saint of Antwerp.

It is claimed that fries originated in Belgium and that the ongoing dispute between the French and Belgians about where they were invented is highly contentious, with both countries claiming ownership.

The fries story here in Belgium goes like this: Small fish from the river were caught throughout Belgium, fried and enjoyed by all. But when the river was frozen and fishing became hazardous, they cut potatoes in the form of the small fish and fried them instead. Therefore, Belgians believe they invented the fried potato. Myth or truth we don’t know but one thing is certain: do not refer to fried potatoes as French fries here in Belgium. The people here eat their fries with mayo rather than ketchup and we sampled sone hot off the press swimming in mayo Yikes! Ketchup is much better.

We sampled some delicious Belgium chocolate which is rather expensive. Think we will stick with the Lindt chocolates instead.

The artist Peter Paul Rubens hailed from Antwerp. His home is located here, but his artwork is only displayed in the cathedral in town…not in his home surprisingly. It is said that Rubens had many apprentices and that he only painted the hands and faces on his artworks and the apprentices did the rest.

We went back to the ship to pack and have lunch and will just rest until tonight’s dinner. We bought some Delft Christmas tree ornaments to give to our Canadian friends as a thank you for “adopting” us on the cruise. Hopefully they will think of the great time we had together whenever they decorate their trees.

It’s been an amazing trip…one of the best we’ve ever had. The crew could not have been more accommodating and our program director Steven was amazing. Our waitress Zorica took such great care of us…calling me a “gentle soul” and giving Allan the royal treatment.

It is a vacation we will remember for years to come. Tomorrow we are off the ship at six am to catch our flight back to the states.

Thanks for coming along with us as we cruised and romanced The Rhine and Mosel Rivers.

China Trip – 2012

October 5, 2012

Beautiful day to fly!   Flight was good…but long. We were fed dinner at 2am with nice glass of wine ..and then tried to get some sleep. Succeeded a little. Woke up and watched the Chinese folks on the plane consume bowls of noodles and broth with chopsticks so we ordered some as well. It was delicious…like ramen noodles, but tastier.  Breakfast was served in the “morning”…, which was 3:30 in the afternoon NY time. 

Watched two great movies…Thin Ice and To Rome with Love.  Started Magic of Belle Isle and it was so good, decided to stop watching and instead, rent on Netflix when Allan and I can watch it together when we get home. We did several laps around the plane aisles to hopefully ward off leg problems.

October 6

Traveling all day in plane​

October 7  Shanghai

After a long flight and then meeting Gary and Chi in the Hong Kong airport, we boarded our flight to Shanghai.  Shanghai is a bustling city…lights, hotels and restaurants everywhere.  Met our tour guide Candy who is very nice and is anxious for us all to enjoy this adventure. There are twenty-sixof us on tour…from USA, Australia, and Britain.  Had traditional Chinese dinner this evening…served with chopsticks, egg drop soup and a myriad of other Chinese delights. Food was not plentiful, but very tasty.  The Chinese don’t eat the way Americans do in terms of quantity. 

After dinner, we met as a group and received a lot of info from our guide as to what to expect on tour, places we will be seeing, and the heads up aboutthe toilets which in Candy’s words “are horrible “.  We are up for the challenge!!  Everyone in the group introduced themselves and we left promising to be on time in the lobby at 9:30 am to tour Shanghai. 

Our hotel is lovely and we have many amenities in the room that were unexpected.  We at first, however, couldn’t figure out how to keep the lights on. Apparently, you must put your key card in the slot on the wall to maintain lighting in the room. That was a new one for us. I am currently boiling the tap water for the required five minutes so that I can use it to wash my face in the morning and so Allan can shave, as tap water is undrinkable.  Two bottles of drinking water cost 24.4 Yuan, which is about four dollars.  Not bad at all. 

Going off to bed for a much-needed night’s sleep.

October 8  Shanghai

Had an AMAZING breakfast. Western and Chinese options. The wonton soup was delicious and we also had steamed buns, pickled veggies, bean milk, millet porridge, omelets, cereals, croissants, and on and on.  We slept great on very hard beds!  Room is quite lovely. 

First stop was the Shanghai museum where we saw beautiful relics, some dating back as far as 700 BC.   There was an amazing jade collection as well. After visiting the museum, we went to the Bund and walked along the riverside. It is a beautiful spot and we could view the amazing skyline.  The Shanghai skyline is like a scene from a futuristic movie. Very unusually shaped buildings. 

Next, we took a super fast elevator up to the 88th floor of the tallest building in Shanghai and we could see for miles around. It was a perfect day in which to do this as our guide told us that there are only 15 such days in Shanghai each year, due to the smog, and so far, we have experienced two of these perfect days. 

We had lunch at a catering hall on a river barge that the Chinese people use for weddings. We had many Chinese dishes…including delicious egg drop soup. Then we experienced a ride on the famous Maglev train…a train that travels 431km and when another train passes in the opposite direction, you hear a big BANG!!!

Tonight…lots of excitement. Our bus was leaving to take us to a famous Thai restaurant when someone on the street started screaming that they were hit. People on the bus who were watching out the window said that the person just walked near the bus while the bus was backing up and it appeared that they were walking deliberately into the bus. Much screaming in Chinese between the bus driver, the national and local guides and the pedestrian. We had Chi to translate and apparently, the pedestrian wanted to be taken to the hospital. It was really getting out of hand…and then the local guide offered money. That ended the ruckus. Apparently, people do this on occasion just to be compensated. 

We went off to the restaurant and had another great meal. However, one dish was a huge fish that was whole. It spun around on the lazy susan and always seemed to wind up in front of me with those beady eyes. People who tried it said it was full of bones. Yuck!!!!   We leave Shanghai tomorrow for a few days and will return on Thursday. 

October 9 Suzhou

 Started the day with great Chinese breakfast. Soup with wontons, bean paste, and some other items that I didn’t recognize but enjoyed. Also…had bean milk and liquid yogurt.  

We left our suitcases with the hotel and took overnight bag for next three nights and boarded our bus. 

Some of the people on the tour are complainers. They don’t like this or that. Even though a few folks are complainers, most the group is very nice and having a great time.  You must have an open mind and be ready for anything. So far, the bathrooms have been immaculate here in Shanghai, so I haven’t had to use my Pstyle yet. (For those of you who don’t know what that is…you can google it). Now we are going into more remote areas…so I’m thinking I will be having to make use of it at some point very soon. 

We drove on a highway to Suzhou. The plantings on the road were beautiful and all along for miles and miles…small shrubs that then graduated into trees in the background. Sometimes there were five rows of shrubs…each one taller than the next.  We went to a silk mill and learned how silk is made. We saw the worms munching on the mulberry leaves. Touched one of the worms. Interestingly…very silky and soft. The eggs are laid and then they hatch and the worms are fed the mulberry leaves until they grow big enough to spin a cocoon into silk. After forty days, the cocoons are taken to have the small silk thread started and it is unraveled onto spools.  Most of the worms are then baked to kill them and only a small percent can mature into moths to allow for future populations. The silk mill had beautiful clothing and bedding.  Then we had lunch at the silk mill…our first lunch so far that was so so. 

After lunch, we rode to the beautiful garden…Master of the Nets. Very peaceful and serene. Then on to the Grand Canal and a wonderful boat ride throughout it. The sights and smells were fabulous, although somesmells were a bit pungent. Women and men alike were washing clothes in the canal and people were waving at us as we cruised by. Such friendly people the Chinese.  I could take amazing shots of the culture – the people, their homes and their lives. 

The Chinese ride motorbikes and pedal bicycles all over. You can’t believe how many there are and we were so frightened that they would be in an accident since they ride so close to the cars and buses.  Women and men of all ages are riding along…and sometimes you will see a father in front at the controls with a little one in front of him.  Then another child behind him with the mother bringing up the rear. 

Our hotel is gorgeous. Brand new and the room is sleek and modern.  Went for a walk and practically got killed crossing the street. Cars, motorbikes, etc… They don’t stop even when you have the right of way. Scary!

Dinner was delicious with duck, beef, tomato soup, eggplant, egg and onions, and a few more dishes.  Bought some bottled beer to take back to the room along with some bakery treats we picked up at the local bakery.  

October 10  Suzhou to Hangzhou

is china in general. No graffiti and no garbage on the streets. 

After the temple, we visited a tea farm and had a tea tasting. We learned how the tea is grown, picked, dried and then brewed. We had delicious spring grown green tea and they explained how to pour the tea and how you should follow certain traditions to make your guests feel welcome…or not. 

We had a delicious lunch…this time at The Lily Hotel and again…many new dishes were introduced to us. Chi is helpful in telling us what we are eating if the host has not. 

After lunch, we visited Felai Feng, a hillside full of statues.  It was very interesting seeing all the beautiful statues. Then we visited the 6 Harmonies Pagoda and walked to the top of the hillside. It was quite a climb and I figured it helped us get into shape for when we go to the Great Wall!

The afternoon ended with a beautiful cruise on the West Lake and another delicious dinner.  The west lake has beautiful serene gardens surrounding it and each little nook and cranny was more beautiful than the next. It was very romantic walking through the greenery and strolling over bridges and paths as the sun was making its way to the west. We really took some beautiful pictures. 

Dinner was excellent…again sampling some interesting dishes. 

October 12

I was up at four thirty this morning because trying to sleep longer than that has been a little bit of a problem. Tonight, we will try to stay awake until at least 10:30. 

Remember the little accident that occurred a few days ago with the bus and the pedestrian?  Apparently, all was solved with about 80 US dollars from the tour guide. 

The Chinese people love having their pictures taken and they love to take our pictures. I have some wonderful people shots that I will put into a grouping…the faces of china.  Everyone is very friendly…and even though we don’t understand each other’s language, smiles cross all borders.  China is very clean. Store owners are always mopping the sidewalks in front of their stores and there are street cleaners everywhere. Teenage girls walk hand and hand and people ride bicycles everywhere. At night, it is a challenge since most of the bikes and motor scooters have no lights. 

Yesterday on the boat, a little boy ran over to me and hugged my legs. He didn’t want to go near the edge and risk falling overboard. Suddenly, he looked up and realized the pair of legs he was clinging to were not his mothers!!!  The look on his face was priceless. Poor little one. He ran off in search of his real mom. I think the blond hair spooked him!

Other travelers to china had told us that the food was repetitive. Yes…we get rice at every meal, cabbage, vegetable and soup, but we have been offered unusual fare as well, particularly here in Hangzhou.  I have been enjoying having soup and wonton for breakfast. Yesterday, I put quail eggs in too. Delicious. 

This morning Allan and I walked around town and watched people doing tai chi and dancing. I found a small park with exercise equipment and many Chinese were using it. I followed along…watching and then mimicking. They were very kind in showing me how to work the apparatus…all stations motor free…but very efficient. Exercised for about twenty-five minutes.  The Chinese exercise as they walk along…swinging arms and dancing while waiting for the buses. I also saw a lady today pounding her arms as she walked.  The Chinese are not obese. 

We visited Wuzhen an old restored town. We saw a huge home from many years ago and it was replete with antique beds with intricate carvings. We learned about Chinese wedding ceremonies and saw the wedding regalia.   There were canals all throughout the town and people are living in the housing. As we walked the streets, we could view the homes with interesting windows and doors and on occasion, we were able to peek inside.  We had lunch there and then enjoyed walking the streets and seeing craftsmen at work and many stores selling all kinds of goods. 

We traveled back to shanghai…which took a long time because of all the traffic…and for dinner we sampled Chinese hot pot…like Mongolian hotpot.  It was fun to cook your dinner right in front of you as we each had our own broth pot. One side was hot…very spicy and the other side was broth. At each meal, we get a glass of beer. 

Right now, we are back at our hotel and Allan and I are enjoying another glass of beer. We had to change hotels today. It seems that the Chinese government had a convention in the hotel we were supposed to stay in…and so we were moved to the holiday inn. It is a beautiful hotel and our room is lovely. 

October 13  Hangzhou to Shanghai

We are back in shanghai to resume our touring. Our hotel is beautiful…looks brand new. The Chinese government needed the rooms in the other hotel where we stayed when we first arrived in shanghai, so we had to change. This hotel is nicer than the last one. 

Slept very well and finally woke up at five fifteen instead of four fifteen. Hooray!  Our mattress is not as hard as other hotels have been…and after sleeping on the rock-hard mattresses, I was wondering if I’d get a good nights sleep.   The hard mattress feels very good on ones back. Had congee for breakfast which is a bland porridge made of rice. I put yogurt in it and it was delicious, but chi said I should use the pickled veggies. Maybe I started a new Chinese trend with the yogurt!  At the last hotel, we had moon cakes which chi said were delicious and he was right!  Looked forthem here, but alas, no moon cakes. 

Met a couple just finishing up twenty-eight day Wendy wu tour and they said it has been wonderful so we have much to look forward to. 

Today we went to Yu Garden, a beautiful garden with paths everywhere and beauty at every turn.  We strolled throughout and enjoyed the fish pond, the flowers, and the rock formations.  We also saw a wedding couple. The bride was beautiful and allowed us to take pictures. I didn’t take with my iPad…so I can’t share them at this moment. 

After the garden, we walked through the town where people were selling everything you could imagine.  There was a Starbucks there and it was mobbed. We also see many McDonald’s and KFC. 

We had a delicious Cantonese lunch…custard tarts like quiche, spring rolls, steamed buns, pickled vegetables, Chinese spinach, soup with dumplings, beef and peppers,  rice and watermelon. After lunch, we visited an upscale shopping area – Nanjing Road with guess, gap, omega, Rolex, and a huge apple store. We lost one of our tourists…the oldest man on the tour. Our bus driver drove around and we all tried to look for Reggie. Someone spotted him talking with the police and he could come back on board. Now we all kind of keep an eye on him. 

We then went to the Xintiandi area that had been restored to its glory by Jackie chan. All eateries…upscale and some upscale boutique shops. Allan and I bought four pieces of Godiva…16 dollars. They were delicious. 

Had dinner and then went off on a boat ride down the Huangpu River.  The government spends a lot of money to put on an amazing light show with all the buildings that line the river. It was just beautiful. I stood next to an elderly Chinese couple and they were fascinated by my iPad…and loved looking at the pictures I was taking with it.  I offered to take their picture…and they stood proudly for the shot. They were so excited to see it afterwards. Their son spoke English and so I included he and his brother in the next shot.  Everyone was deliriously happy. Later, the son came over with his little boy.  I knew he wanted the boys picture taken, but I asked him before doing it. He said yes so quickly and then called his wife over to be in the picture as well. It was wonderful. I then showed them pictures of Gavin and the family and they just kept going on and on in Chinese and smiling and patting me.  The older gentlemen than offered me a cigarette…(I declined).  When the boat ride was over, the elderly gent shook my hand and said hello over and over…thinking it was goodbye. It was a wonderful experience. 

Afterwards, a group of us left the bus and took taxis to the French quarter in the Xintiandi area and had pizza and beer. So much fun. The taxi ride was a bit harrowing…headlights coming at us from both sides and we thought our driver might be going up a one-way street. Yikes!

All in all…another great day.  Tomorrow we fly to Guilin. 

October 14 Guilin

I forgot to mention the other day that when we went through security at the Shanghai museum, we had to open our water bottles and drink from them to show they were harmless. Interesting!

Today we did not have to be ready until 11:00 am and so we enjoyed a leisurely breakfast. After breakfast, we drove to the airport and boarded a 3:30 flight. It was scheduled for two forty, but took off almost an hour later. 

The flight was wonderful. We enjoyed a snack of a delicious flavored roll and there were pickled vegetables which the Chinese lady next to me said to put on the roll.  It was tasty. We also were served apple chips, cookies, water and drinks. The flight was about two hours and we arrived in Guilin in time for dinner. 

Our hotel is nice…a little older than the other hotels we have been in, but many amenities.  I feel that I’ve been eating way too much and have decided not to pig out so much in the weeks to follow. HA!!!

October 15  Guilin to Yangshou

First time that our hotel is not up to par. It is rather poorly maintained, but they do give a lot of amenities. The shower mat…whoa!!!!  Quite a sight so it sat in the corner of the shower. Shower is huge…room is huge…. bedsvery, very hard so we put a quilt under us to sleep on. It did work.   Our meal last night was in the next-door catering hall. A wedding celebration was going on. Rose petals and spent firecrackers all over. The food was very tasty…a little spicier than we had in shanghai. 

We had to bid our local guide Jacob farewell before we left for Guilin as he was only with us in shanghai. Our new local guide, Carly is very nice and easy to understand as well. They are very knowledgeable and tell us many interesting facts about the customs, food, sites etc. in the area that we are visiting. 

Breakfast this morning was very plain…not the usual Chinese fare. I just had a hardboiled egg and porridge. We boarded the bus to the Li river cruise and on the way our guide told us about the local customs. When men look for a wife they want one with long beautiful hair, a lovely singing voice and wide hips for having babies. Women look for a man that can hold his liquor and not embarrass the family with drinking, large feet, strong, and of good temper. The women have beautiful hair by using rice water to wash their hair with. In one of the local villages, the women do not cut their hair until the age of eighteen and then they cut it very short. If they are not married, they do not use the cutoff hair. When they marry, they can wear it on their head and arrange in a top knot or bun. 

Guilin is much more rural than Shanghai and the houses are very run down.  The cars are older and many people are riding in wagons. We boarded our ship for the cruise down the Li river which was very beautiful. It was a hot and humid day but one could catch a breeze. We were given bag lunches since one Wendy wu tour a few years ago got sick from eating the food on the ship. Now they only have you eat the food prepared off the ship. As we cruised along, I could understand why. I saw the kitchen crew washing the used plates in the water from the river. Yikes!!  For the locals, this is fine, but not so much for tourists. 

The mountains and cliffs were beautiful to see along the way and we enjoyed the river ride very much. 

After we got off the ship, the elderly man got lost…again!!!!  The tour guide has had it and told everyone that from now on, she will not be looking for anyone if they get lost. They will have to take a taxi to get back to the hotel. We all clapped because it really was getting annoying having to stand around waiting while the guides searched for the missing person…usually this man. 

We packed an overnight bag as we are now staying one night in Yangzhou. Our hotel here is dated but clean. No matter where we are, the bedding is always immaculate. They give many amenities…shower cap, toothbrush and paste, robe, slippers, comb, bath gel, shampoo, vanity kit, razor with shaving cream, sewing kit, flashlights in the room, shoe polish kit, refrigerator, hair dryer and irons. Speaking of flashlights, on our first night meeting everyone, we were told that we had to take all batteries out of any gadget and keep it in carryon luggage. One of the British men asked if he could bring his torch. The look on our guides face was priceless as she said…your torch??  I think she was visualizing a Polynesian tiki light!!  Then someone said…he means his flashlight!  Too funny!  

Our dinner tonight was different yet again. We had lemon chicken, rice noodles, taro root dumplings and egg drop soup…along with a fish dish, broccoli, sautéed celery and some other dishes.  They always serve everything on a lazy Susan and you eat with chopsticks and put the food on a very small plate. You just help yourself as the lazy Susan spins around.  Every night we also get a glass of beer. 

Tonight, we went to an amazing extravaganza.  It was called impressions and was choreographed by the same man who did the Olympics in Beijing. What a show. There were over three thousand people in the audience and over 600 people in the performance. The local people are the actors along with a few who are training to be actors who attend the local university. The show was beautiful as was the music. It was set on the Li River with the mountains as the backdrop in the open-air theatre.   Everything was choreographed to the music and igniting. Boats came in from the side as well as the performers. The pictures don’t capture the beauty. An amazing night. 

Afterwards, we came back and some of us walked the local streets.  Bars with music blaring and kids dancing as well as street venders and people selling food were the norm. We stopped at a local place with the group and had home brewed beer. It was good but not as hearty as I was hoping for. 

It’s been a long day…so we are off to bed. 

October 16  Guilin

We rode the bus back to Guilin. It was beautiful driving through the countryside. There were many nurseries for plants on the way with beautiful flowers and shrubs being cultivated. The first stop was a rice paddy. The locals grow white rice and when ready, they cut the rice grass with a sickle and put it in a basket to take home and let dry which takes about three days.  

After that, we visited a pearl museum which was just a way to get the tourists to buy pearls. The pearl jewelry was lovely, but I didn’t buy anything since I already have pearls.  We had lunch at a restaurant called The Left Bank. The lunch was delicious…lemon chicken, duck, broccoli, noodles, beef with peppers, candied bananas, soup, and fruit.  I must say, the food has been outstanding. One woman in our group said, “I’m getting tired of Chinese food!”  Seriously??? Then why did you come to China. Duh!!

We then went to the reed flute caves. It was quite a hike to get up to the cave…a good workout to prepare for when we get to the great wall.  The locals hid in the cave in the 1940’s during the Japanese invasion.  In the fifties, the government was told of the cave and the government then opened it to the public in the early 60’s. If you can afford it, you can rent the cave and hold celebrations in the crystal palace area which has been electrified with floor lights. It is where the shallow pool is.  Quite lovely for a wedding. 

Had dinner which again offered new cuisine. Bean paste buns, chicken on a stick, corn soup, and sweet and sour chicken, beef dish and fresh oranges for dessert.  Also, had noodles, rice and vegetables. 

After dinner, we went to see the cormorant fisherman. It was pitch-black on the water and the fisherman has oil lamps on the raft for some light. He trains the birds to stay close to his raft and they have been trained to dive under the water to catch the fish. They cannot swallow the fish because there is a string around their neck. Once the bird catches a fish, he hops back onto the raft and the fisherman takes the bird and squeezes the fish out of his neck into a bucket.  The fisherman had quite a few birds and he caught a lot of fish in a short span of time. 

It was so dark, I could only take pics with my regular camera so I’m sorry you can’t see them until I get back home. 

Tomorrow we fly to Kunming. 

October 17  Kunming

The guides are easy to understand usually and they are very accommodating. Someone on the tour said they were getting tired of watermelon for dessert at each meal. Our guide Carly then made sure we had banana and oranges to complete our meals. . Allan and I have no complaints. It is all part of the adventure. We both agree that this hotel, which we came back to in Guilin to fly to Kunming is not up to par with hotels in the other cities, but truthfully, the room is huge and has a huge walk in shower and we only sleep here. We are so exhausted after a long day of touring that we just plop down and go to sleep. This morning we stayed asleep until 7 am!!!  

The locals ride all over on motorbikes and scooters, as I have mentioned before. The scooters go about 25 mph and the rider wears a helmet which is usually a construction helmet. The scooters are electric and so they don’t have to use gas to get around. The problem is, no lights on many of them (including the motorbikes) and they don’t stop for anything. It is like playing the old video game Frogger to get across the street. 

The people lease their homes from the government and they can live there for seventy years. If they move out, the next person will be able to lease the house only for whatever time is left from the original leaser.   So if a person lives in a home for fifty years, the next owner can only reside there for twenty years and then they must move out.  After the seventy years time, the house will go back to the government and the government will tear it down and build a new one. 

This hotel does not have the delicious Chinese breakfast that is offered by the other hotels we have been in. We were only offered traditional western breakfast. Disappointing since I’ve really come to love the Chinese broth with noodles and vegetables that we could have in the other hotels. Not to mention the delicious steamed buns and sautéed vegetables. 

All Chinese hotels use a card holder for your key card in the room. You must put your room key in the card holder to obtain electricity. This is fine…but you must take your room key with you (they only issue one most times) when you leave.  This is a great electricity saving method for China but becomes a problem for us as the A/C and outlets shut off so you cannot charge anything when you are out of the room and the room can get a little warm. The A/C works very well so the room does cool down quickly upon return. 

We drove to the airport and had lunch there. Our flight was late again, but the flight was wonderful. We arrived in Kunming and were met by our local guide daisy. The altitude in Kunming is over 6,300 feet so we have to drink lots of water and tomorrow eat a big breakfast with eggs or meat so that we don’t get too tired. 

Ate dinner in the hotel tonight. Hotel a bit dated but again, bedding clean. After dinner, we were invited by a couple – Mark and Jacqueline (Jack) – along with a few other couples, to celebrate Mark’s 31st birthday.  Mark and Jack are on their honeymoon and are from Britain.   We all had a good time talking and Mark and Jack were happy to know that i love Rod Stewart as they are fans of him as well. 

Going to bed now.  After two beers, I’m ready for sleep!  Tomorrow will be another busy day. 

October 18  Kunming

There is much construction here as well. Buildings are going up all over. We believe the people are moving from the rural areas closer to the cities. Don’t forget, even though the government owns the buildings for seventy years and will then tear them down to build new, the seventy years has not happened yet. 

After a Chinese breakfast, we left for the stone forest. The road was under construction and very bumpy with lots of cars all coming very close to each other. Yikes!  We had to take a detour on the way which added another half hour or more to the trip.  On the way, our guide told us about her wedding day. Our guide comes from dali and she told us of the local customs. The bride is supposed to cry a lot before getting married, so they wear sunglasses to hide their eyes. The family and friends pinch the bride on her left arm. One pinch means good life. Two pinches mean have children right away. Three pinches mean be rich. Four pinches mean the person who is pinching you doesn’t like you.  Our guide said that on her wedding day, everyone pinched her twice because next to good life, children are most important thing. Her arm was black and blue up and down the next day, but she was happy because more pain, more good luck. 

Also, family members do crazy things to groom on wedding day. They sometimes put lipstick on his body, make him go out to beg, sing and dance in the street and other silly things. Divorce is something they do not believe in and doesn’t happen easily.  

She also told us about the Yie people.  The women wear hats with triangles in the corners.  When one triangle is gone, it means girl has boyfriend and she has given triangle to him. When girl gives two triangles to boy, it means they are engaged. They don’t get married right away. They must wait three years and boy must work for the family. After three years, the mother of the girl serves chicken soup to the boy. If head is in the soup, boy is acceptable for marriage. If wings are in soup, boy is nice, but not for their daughter so he must fly away. If feet are in the soup, boy is unsuitable and must walk away.    When girl wears triangle on top part of hat, means she is married. 

Also with the Yie people, the women are the workers and the men stay home and have fun and or watch children. Women can climb trees to get to the special tea leaves that are grown in that area. The trees are quite high and the women start climbing trees at the age of six.  By age of seventy, very good at climbing trees! 

It ‘s allan writing now!  

Has anyone noticed Irene has had too many Chinese meals?  She’s starting to talk in Chinenglish!

Okay..I’m back. 

We passed the narrow-gauge rail road that goes to Vietnam.  The train tracks are one meter wide and it takes 19 hours to get to Vietnam because the train is so slow. The French built the railroad almost one hundred years ago. 

Visited the stone forest which was opened in 1931.  The area was under water probably millions of years ago and we could walk through the limestone formations that are now visible.  The formations were beautiful and the sunny blue sky made the visit especially lovely. 

Had dinner tonight …and tasted across the bridge noodle soup.  Basically, it is rice noodles in broth with pork, chicken and fish.  Tasted delicious buns that seemed gingery and were filled with ham and onions. Another whole fish appeared, but it was filled with bones.  

Walked around a little outside, but the hotel is close to the railroad station and not the best of neighborhoods.  I blew a fuse in our room using my hair dryer. They fixed the fuse, but I haven’t tried the dryer again. I figure I will do it right before I leave. I hope I didn’t toast my dryer because not every hotel has a hair dryer for use and that could make for some very bad hair days!

 Finished the night with a beer in the bar and off to bed as we leave hotel tomorrow at 7:45 am for our flight to Chongqing. 

October 19  Chongqing

Today was a very stressful day. 

We started the day running a bit late because of the early wake up call and having to get on the road early because of touring and catching our plane to Chongqing.  We stopped to visit the Western Hills and Dianchi Lake before traveling to the airport.  We took a bus half way up the mountain and then climbed 300 steps to get to the top.  I was out of my comfort zone climbing up the steep steps because of my fear of heights.  It was scary for me going up…but terrifying going down. I made it!!!  The views were magnificent and I’m glad that I bite the bullet and did it. 

Then we had lunch at a restaurant nearby. I took some pics of the fish dish. 

We then drove to the airport and had a nice flight to Chongqing. Chongqing has a population of over 32 million – the most populated of all the cities in china. The city sports mountains and rivers and very high humidity. It is cloudy for 200 plus days…but luckily, today wasn’t one of them.  The temperature in the summer can go up to 42 degrees C. (108 F).  Chongqing is also very foggy in the mornings with visibility not more than 200 meters.  It is also smoggy from all the cars that travel around because of the population. They have planted trees all over the highway to try to help keep the smog down.  Allan spotted a sign that said Chongqing Asthma Society. I can see why. 

Chongqing is known for its spicy food and hot pot is very popular. There are 2,000 hotpot restaurants downtown. 

There is construction all over with apartment buildings in various stages of completion.  A monorail is being built which has been challenging to build because of the mountainous terrain.  The monorail construction has offered many job opportunities from laborers to engineers to designers.  Chongqing also has a 60 meter subway system with many branches.

In the downtown area, 300,000 people go to work each day.  There are many tall buildings – the largest at this point being 375 meters in height, but they will be building new ones that will soar to over 500 meters. 

There are six residential areas – the largest of which house 80,000 residents.  To buy your home costs 10,000 yuan per square meter and the homes average range in size is about 100 square meters. 

We went out to dinner…and here’s where the next stressful incident occurred. (And my North Carolina friends will feel my pain…knowing how much I LOVE bones!!!!!!!)

My first bite of dinner was something that looked to me like fried eggplant. WRONG!!!!!!!!!  It was river fish…with bones…and one got lodged in my throat. YIKES!!!  I excused myself from the table and tried to hack it out in the ladies’ room.   I thought I dislodged it, but my throat still felt weird. I asked for steamed buns, but it would take too long to prepare so I asked Candy our guide what I could do.   She told me to drink white vinegar. She had them bring me a bowl of vinegar and I drank it down. She said I was very brave to just down it straight but when I have a bone in my throat…I’d drink antifreeze if I thought it would help!    Candy said when she was little and she ate river fish, sometimes she would get bones stuck in her throat.  Lovely!!!!   Her grandfather always had her drink vinegar which dissolves the bone. Who knew!!!!  When we got to the hotel, Chi helped me find more vinegar in the convenience store and I bought some buns to eat as well since I didn’t eat any dinner. Allan looked down my throat and said it is white with irritation…but he didn’t see any bone. My throat is still scratchy…don’t know if the bone is still there hiding somewhere, but I’ll just keep gargling with the vinegar tonight.  Glad I didn’t have to have the vet who is on tour with us do surgery on me. LOL!!!!

I am now sitting in the hotel bar…having a black beer. Did I mention I had a stressful day?

October 20  Chongqing to Dazu

What a wonderful morning!  We went to a beautiful park and saw so many wonderful sights. People dancing, doing tai chi, playing cards, hoola hooping, playing instruments, painting…and on and on!  The people didn’t believe I could hoola hoop…so I went over and the lady gave me the hoop and I did it. All the Chinese ladies were impressed and gave me the thumbs up!   Many people were chanting and massaging their faces…like what I do in exercise class…sans chanting!  Many things that my exercise instructor Diana does is what the Chinese do as well. Balance, lunges, massage…very wonderful!  There was a man drawing beautiful name murals for people. Quite exquisite. 

Next we went to people’s square and did some people watching. Took many photos of children on my camera. Babies don’t wear diapers and their outfits have holes in the bottom. When baby needs to pee or poop…mamma opens hole in outfit and holds baby over sidewalk. Mission accomplished and no diapers to clog landfills!  Lol!  

Many weddings occur today because today is a lucky day in china.  We saw many brides having their pictures taken. Red envelopes with money inside are the gifts to the couple. Many casual friends will fill envelope with 8 yuan for rich life since 8 is a lucky number.  If friends and distant relatives come to wedding, not uncommon to give 200 to 500 yuan. Close friends and family might give as much as 1,000 to 3,000 yuan. Both parents give a red envelope individually to show that the person marrying their son/daughter is acceptable to both. 

Took photo of group of Chinese teens amid much whooping and laughing. Then they all came over to see the pic with more giggling and thumbs up.  Fabulous!!!

Went to lunch in a restaurant that was also hosting a celebration for a new baby girl. The local people here celebrate when the baby is one month old. If a girl, like this baby was, not too big of a celebration. Price for each table…about 2,300 yuan. If it is a boy baby…the celebration might take place in a five-star hotel costing much more. The people in the restaurant were very loud and the atmosphere celebratory. There was also lots of smoking. The Chinese people smoke a lot because the price of a pack of cigarettes is about 3 to 5 yuan. Very cheap. About 350 million people are smokers here in china. 

Our lunch was very good, although this was the first meal that tea was not served. An egg custard

 with beef drippings, cabbage, peppers and steak, pumpkin soup, and rice was among the fare. 

After lunch, we drove to Dazu and see the famous Dazu Rock carvings (cliff carvings) at Mt Bei. The carvings date back to the Tang and Song Dynasties (800-1100AD).  It was amazing to see how the stone was carved into sometimes quite intricate patterns. The inscription in one of the grottos is said to be written by Confucius and says Honor your Parents.  

We arrived at our hotel and were very pleasantly surprised by the hotel and our room. Room is huge…immaculate and the bathroom has both shower and tub. Music plays softly, if you desire, while you are sitting on the throne!!  wow…that’s something I’ve never seen before. There is even a chaise in the room to relax on.  

Went to dinner at a wonderful restaurant. The food was seasoned expertly…not too hot as is usual in the Sichuan tradition.  Ave, who is with us on the tour, told us that the delicious taste in one of the dishes stemmed from Sichuan peppers. They are tiny red peppers that taste a little like cardamom but leave your mouth tingly. We are going to pick some up to take home when we get to Chengdu.

We returned to our hotel and were just about to leave to go for a drink…when a fireworks display took place right outside our window!  It was beautiful. Today, as I mentioned earlier, is a lucky day in china so there are many celebrations going on.  

Well off for that drink now. This hotel is quite beautiful. 

Hope you can see the numerous pics that I have uploaded of the day. 

October 21  Dazu to Chengdu

Had a delicious Chinese breakfast of dim sum and soup. The soup was spicy with noodles and beef and the dim sum was delicious with bean paste and a type of meat. Tried the salted hardboiled egg. Yikes!  The egg was salty…but tasted like I imagine a spoiled egg would taste. Not a fan of that. 

After breakfast, we visited Baoding stone carvings which were very beautiful.  They were carved between 1172 & 1254 AD. The intricacies of the carvings are quite amazing considering the stone and the era.   As we were walking out of the area, we observed people defoliating a tree that was to be planted. Apparently, they do this so that the tree won’t need as much water after planting. 

Had a lovely lunch and then boarded our bus for a four plus hour drive to Chengdu.

Well…the four hour plus bus ride turned into almost six hours!!  We had a few pit stops to the Happy House (bathroom…usually squat toilets) and we did some singing, reading and learning some more about the Chinese culture.   I took a picture of the happy house so you could see it in all its glory!  

Many people walk with baskets strapped to their backs to hold their purchases and the moms walk with the babies either strapped to their backs or in baskets that are on their backs. 

Candy told us about feet binding…something that I already knew about, but it was still interesting to hear about it again. Usually, the foot is only 10 cm in size after the foot binding process…which takes about ten years or more. Men would choose their bride based on the smallness of the girls’ feet. The smaller the better. When the girl was around three years of age, the foot binding began. The girl had to be already walking for awhile. First the foot was washed with warm water and white alum to protect the foot from bacteria.  The second toe was then strung with cord to the little toe and the third and fourth toes were pulled under the foot leaving the big toe alone. Then a cloth ribbon was wrapped around the foot. It was about three inches wide and was starched with rice or wheat flour.  The bindings would be made into a pointy shape in the front and then eventually, the foot would be made into a high arch or a gap between the toes and the heel, using a large bamboo piece that was put in the shoe to keep the arch high. The girl had five shoes to wear for day and two shoes to wear for nighttime. At first the bindings were not very tight…but after awhile, the bindings got tighter and tighter and it was very painful.  The mothers would still make their daughter walk on the bound feet causing much pain.  After two months went by, then the foot was bound tightly. The mothers who loved their girls the most, bound the tightest to ensure that the girl would find a husband as she would have a small foot.  Also, stepmothers would bind the feet tightly…just to cause the girl more pain.  After ten years, it was not as painful as the foot stopped growing.   The woman still had to work in the fields.

Cleansing the feet took about two hours.  The bindings had to be unwound very slowly as the cotton stuck to the skin, causing a lot of pain. Every crevice of the foot had to be washed carefully and then the foot had to be dried and bound again. The woman never let anyone see her bare foot. In the cooler parts of china, the foot washing happened every seven to ten days. In the summer months, every five days. 

Candy’s great grandmother had her feet bound and Candy remembers how her great grandma would walk…taking very small steps and leaning slightly forward. Thankfully, that barbaric practice has ended years ago and now the girls wear stiletto shoes…. that probably cause the same painful experience. Lol!

Our hotel is not like the one we were at last night, but it is clean and as usual, very nice bedding. The beds in this hotel are soft…not like the rock-hard ones we have grown accustomed to.  The bathroom is a one-persondeal. We went to dinner tonight at a local restaurant…the food being cooked in the hallway as we went in. The food was spicy and quite good once your tongue and mouth got over the numbness. The food was very different and once again the selection of dishes was unique. Allan and I walked to a local convenience store and bought a bottle of German beer which we are now enjoying.  Early wake up call tomorrow.    

Allan here…

Yes, for those of you who think Irene has eliminated the blogging competition by not allowing me to write…you are almost correct.  She enjoys writing each day and I edit nightly.  (I decided to leave the Chinglish in for your collective entertainment.)

Now that we have arrived in Chengdu we stay for 3 nights and I will contribute more (Allan).

October 22  Chengdu

A little background on Chengdu. Chengdu is known as the leisure city, the gourmet city, the panda city and the brocade city.  The panda is China’s national treasure.  Brocade is still available. Years ago, the woman controlled the pattern and the man co trolled the machine. Girls had to learn embroidery as well before marriage. 

The hospital system in China is not the best.  You have to pay out of, pocket if you go to the hospital unless you have insurance to supplement the cost.  It is very expensive. Beds are scarce and in an emergency, you must pay up front before you are treated. In the poorer villages, babies are born at home with midwives present. 

I had a delicious Chinese breakfast again this morning with dim sum, Chinese soup and I sampled lotus root for the first time which was quite tasty. 

After breakfast, we boarded a very roomy bus to take us to Leshan to visit the Grand Buddha, the tallest Buddha statue in the world, sitting on the mountainside. We took a short ferry ride to view the statue from the river. After viewing the statue, we walked around the town and saw people selling fruit, meats and souvenirs.  Our guide told us not to purchase any stuffed animals because they are not good as they are made from waste material. Yikes!  

On our Return to Chengdu, we visited the old town of Huanglongxi on the way.   it was a lovely town, but tourist oriented. We saw bamboo beetles, scorpions and locusts that were roasted on sticks for sale. Jack the vet bought them and some of the group sampled them.  Jack offered one to a Chinese lady who scrunched up her nose, shook her head and walked away. That can’t be good!!!   Allan and i didn’t partake in the feast. Yuck!

As we walk around, the Chinese people try to nonchalantly take our photos with their iphones. They are fascinated by us. I always ask permission to take their photos. Sometimes they are excited and pose…other times they shake their heads and turn away. I took wonderful shots of some teenagers who loved seeing their photo on my ipad. I also took a wonderful shot of a group of elderly men who were just sitting in a bench. When I showed them their photo they started laughing and slapping each other. I think they were saying…”See…we still got what it takes!”  I took it on my regular camera, so I will post it when I get home. 

There were ladies selling wreaths of flowers for the hair and all the ladies bought one. I negotiated a great price. The seller wanted 10 yuan…I said 2. She said 4…I said 3. She said no so I walked away. She came after me and held up three fingers and the deal was sealed. There were also people walking around offering to clean out your ears and give you a massage. One of the guys in our group had his ears cleaned. The Chinese man stuck various long wands into his ears. I wouldn’t have had that done in a million years!!  

We drove back to Chengdu and had dinner in a restaurant that was built to resemble a cruise ship. Again, the choices were different and delicious. Those Sichuan red peppers are so savory. They tingle in your mouth and leave a very pleasant aftertaste. I think I might have mentioned, we can’t bring the, back to the states because they carry a citrus blight that is detrimental to the citrus trees. Somehow, I am sure that they can be found in Chinatown, however. 

Going off now for a Starbucks before bed. 

October 23  Panda Reserve, Changing Faces and Brocade

A lovely young Chinese girl was searching for a place to sit for breakfast this morning and I invited her to join us. She and another girl sat and we chatted during breakfast. They were very interested in what we thought of China and what cities we had visited. They were delightful and we enjoyed their company very much.  The one girl was so poised and as Allan and I noticed, she just glided into the seat when she sat down.   It was wonderful conversing with them. 

We were originally concerned we would have to search all over for water to drink as we traveled around China because as I’ve mentioned, the water in the hotels is not potable.  We have a glut of water right now.  Each hotel gives two bottles and so finding water has not been a problem.  It is a challenge to remember to use bottled water to brush our teeth and not just turn on the faucet from force of habit. So far…so good.  Now we will drink a lot of water during the day to reduce our stash or lug it around from city to city. The problem with drinking a lot is…you must frequent the “happy house” which as i mentioned, sometimes is not so happy. LOL!

Last night we walked around the streets and went into an apple store to find an adapter to attach our camera card to so that we could upload our camera photos to the ipad. They wanted 288 yuan…the equivalent of 48 dollars. Since we can buy it in America for around 25, we opted to wait until we get home and purchase it for the next trip.  We will also pick up a router for the next trip so we can use the Internet from our room. 

I packed very light for this trip…and to tell the truth, I could have left some things at home. Eight shirts are too many…six would have been perfect. I haven’t even worn two of the eight yet. The only thing I could have brought more of is socks.   They take a long time to dry. 

While we were out last night, we had a delicious coffee in Starbucks. The cappuccino was 25 Yuan…about $4.10. It was delicious.  We have been getting some news from home…most of it about the election.  It is the big topic here in China.   We are sleeping very well…even on the hard beds. Three people so far in our group have had the traveler’s diarrhea.  But they are the ones that are more adventuresome in their eating out.  Allan and I have been careful of not eating fruit, etc and not having any mixed drinks out. We stick to beer. Hope our luck continues. 

Today is the double nine festival which is september 9th according to the lunar calendar. It is a day of showing respect to elders.  It is also important to climb the mountain on this day…or go up to the top of something to bring good luck. 

We visited the panda reserve and it was fabulous. The pandas are playful and very cute to watch as they frolic and climb the trees. One panda climbed up the tree and we all held our breath as he hung upside down…and we were sure he would tumble down at any moment. No… Theyare expert climbers and he came down from the tree like a well-trainedacrobat.  We saw the baby panda in the incubator who was taking a little snooze.  If you wanted to hold a baby panda, you had to pay $220 (US) a pretty hefty price for a few moments with a little one.  We also saw the red pandas that had magnificent coats and tails.  It was feeding time so we watched them chomp down their food and watched them chow down on the bamboo. 

Pandas grow very fast and when they are babies, they are very active. When they reach the age of 6 months, they begin to learn how to climb a tree and by the age of five, they have reached sexual maturity.  March to May is the mating season.  Pandas will live twenty-five years in captivity, but only about fifteen years in the wild. They are not totally vegetarian…their diet consists of 98% bamboo and 2% meat. They eat the bamboo rat and other small rodents and can eat goats and sheep as well. In captivity, they have a special diet along with apples and bamboo.  About 20% of the bamboo is digested.  Pandas do not hibernate like other bears and they also have six fingers…one of which is an opposable thumb, which is part of the wrist, A female panda can weigh about 120 kilograms.   Pandas are becoming endangered because of human beings clearing the bamboo trees for fields to grow their crops because there are so many people in China and the food is a necessity.  

We ate lunch at the panda reserve and then went to the brocade museum. It was very like the silk museum we had been to awhile back, so we all just walked around and looked at the wares. 

After dinner…which again had delicious dishes we hadn’t tasted yet, we went to a performance of opera, changing faces, acrobatics and music. The Chinese opera wasn’t anywhere near as wonderful as Puccini or Verdi.  It resembled more like alley cats in heat. Seriously…it was quite grating. The acrobatics were good and the comedy skit was clever as the man kept an oil lamp burning atop his head while he climbed under benches and rolled around. A woman did hand shadows of birds and other animals and another woman did a stick puppet performance.  they were interesting to watch, but the two fabulous acts were the soloist on a two-stringedinstrument and the changing faces and clothing.  The soloist was amazing and he could make the two-stringed sound like a violin. The changing masks was just truly unbelievable. In a split second, each performer couldchange the mask on his face and, change his clothing. I don’t know where the previous masks and clothing went…it all happens in a split second.  That was worth the price of admission!

We went out to get a black beer and some snacks and tomorrow we will get some snacks for the train ride. Tomorrow will be a long day. 

A Panda Bear walks into a café and orders a sandwich and a drink. After he is finished eating, the waiter comes over to bring him the check. When the waiter arrives at the table, he just starts to ask, ‘Would you like any des…’ Then the Panda Bear reaches into his fur, pulls out a gun, and shoots the waiter dead. The Panda Bear then wipes off his chin with his napkin, gets up, and starts to walk out. Just as he is about to go through the door, the manager grabs him. ‘Wait a minute!’ he yells, ‘You just killed my best waiter! Besides that, you didn’t even pay for your sandwich!’

The Panda Bear grasps the manager by the throat, jacks him up, and growls, ‘Hey man! I’m a PANDA! Do you know what that means? Why don’t you look it up!’

At this the Panda walks out the door and ambles down the street. The manager, shaken, returns to his office and consults a dictionary.

He reads: 

‘panda – a large mammal of the Asian mountain forests related to raccoons and true bears and characterized by bold black and white markings. Eats shoots and leaves.’

HA!

Oh…and by the way.  I told my new Australian friends Tom and his wife Chris, (Tom wanted to be included in the select group of people who receive the journal updates each day), that I would mention him in my next daily blog. So here goes.

TOM!

Mission accomplished!  LOL!   

October 24,  Travel to Xian

Tom, who I mentioned yesterday, is an avid reader as am I and he has recommended many books to me that I am anxious to consider when I return.  I have many books downloaded on my ipad and it has been nice to read while on the bus. It is much easier than lugging around paperback books all over the place. 

At breakfast this morning i took a hardboiled egg with me to have for breakfast tomorrow morning as we won’t be getting anything to eat except tea and toast in the morning. The food on the train apparently is not very good, so our guide candy said to take butter and jelly packets from breakfast at the hotel this morning and she would make toast and tea for us tomorrow on the train. I thought the egg would be a nice addition.   We also have protein bars with us. 

Then Allan and I and chi and Gary went to the convenience store and picked up bananas, OJ and then on to the bakery for pastry filled with bean paste. We thought it would give us more to eat tomorrow and so we are all set for breakfast. But then our guide handed out juice, bread, nuts, OJ and tea bags while we were in the bus so that we would have it for breakfast tomorrow.  Wow!  We will have quite a feast between all this food. 

We board the train at 9:38 pm tonight and will arrive in Xian tomorrow afternoon at 12:49. I will not have wifi on the train…so I will tell of the adventure tomorrow when I get to our hotel. We are bunking with Gary and Chi so I’m sure we will have a great time. 

Must get our checked luggage down to the lobby now…so will meet up again with all of you later.

Since this is the city of leisure, we spent a leisurely time walking around the bamboo park and the old streets called Jin Li.  The bamboo park was very nice with Chinese people singing, dancing and playing mahjong.  We watched elderly men drawing Chinese characters with a large brush and water in the paving stones.  One man was anxious to tell me what the letters meant.  He kept telling me over and over and when he got to the last letters he raised his arms up to the sky.  He did this numerous times to make me understand. Finally, I just pointed to them all…and when I got to the end, I also raised my hands to the sky. He was pleased. Of course, I had no clue what it meant…but he was very happy. Teenagers came over to have their photos taken and wanted to take ours, which is a common event. 

After lunch, we visited Jin Li and walked all through the streets. We found a Starbucks and I had a delicious salted Caramel mocha coffee. We went off to dinner and then made our way to the train station. We must stick together like sticky rice so that we all remain as one.  We are currently in the VIP waiting room…large roomy chairs while we wait for the overnight train. Will see you in Xian. 

October 25  Xian

We boarded the train at around 9:38 and it went very smoothly.  Some of our group went on another train and the rest of us went on this one. Our compartment is clean but small and with four of us in the room, it did get rather warm at first.  Allan and I brushed our teeth in the sinks that are next to the happy house. We had heard horror stories of the happy house on the train…how you had to use it right away because as the night wore on it would be really in bad shape, but that has not been the case.  It is cleanand quite usable.  We all decided to sleep in our clothes and take our showers when we get to the hotel. 

Allan and I took the top bunks and clambered up.  There was a lot of storage space above for our luggage and so we had plenty of room to spread out. The mattress was very hard so we decided to put our blanket under us for a little padding as it was still rather warm. In the middle of the night, it got very cold so we had to find our coats to cover up with. Allan didn’t sleep well, but I slept okay…waking up to find out it was 7:38.  Wow!!  We are all a little stiff this morning.  

We had a light breakfast in the compartment of banana, bean paste bun and OJ. Gary and Chi and Allan and I passed the time chatting and watching the countryside go by as we will be on the train for another four hours or so.  The trees are changing color and the mountains are quite beautiful. Some of the homes we pass are ramshackled and you can see corn drying in heaps at the front doors and vegetables growing in the fields.  

We ate our lunch on the train…delicious tofu in brown sauce, chicken and veggies, and tomato and egg. We followed it up with cucumber soup. Since the other people opted not to eat in the dining room, our guide was able to offer the six of us who did want train food, a nice cold beer.  We had to drink it out of soup bowls however.  Lol!  

We arrived in Xian and since our hotel rooms were not ready, we visited the ancient wall of Xian which is the most well preserved wall in all of China. It encircles a city that is 5.4 square miles and is 12 meters high and 15 -18 meters wide at its base.  The wall was started in the Ming dynasty and is over 600 years old. We strolled around for awhile, but we were all tiredfrom our train ride and were anxious to get back to the hotel for a shower. 

Our hotel is lovely and we have a huge room with a king-sized bed!!  

Tonight, we had a delicious dumpling dinner followed by a Tang Dynasty dance and music performance. The dumplings were amazing…each one shaped like the delectable filling inside.  Little ducks with duck inside, chickens, pigs, vegetables, mushrooms, walnuts, and on and on. We also had delicious appetizers to start the meal off with. 

The dance performance was beautiful with spring colors and ladies in traditional Chinese dresses and headgear.  The women are so graceful. 

Off to bed after a busy day. 

October 26  Terra Cotta Warriors

Today we went to see the 8th Wonder of the World…the Terra CottaWarriors.  It was amazing to see them and if you would like to learn more about them, please read the National Geographic description below. 

We spent quite a good part of the morning at the warrior site…first starting with the factory that makes replicas of the warriors using the same clay from the hillside that the originals were made from.  They also manufacture beautiful lacquer furniture. Then we visited the warriors and the three pits that have been excavated so far. It was unbelievable to see them and to see how each warrior was different in facial expression.  The farmer that was one of four farmers digging a well and finding the first warriors, was atthe museum today, signing books.  

We went to a tea house on the premises and drank Lotus Concubine black tea which was outstanding. I would like to find that when i return to the states. 

We had an enjoyable lunch and then went back to the hotel for the afternoon. We walked around inside the wall in Xian and then had dinner which was rather western style…steak and French fries being part of the fare. 

At night, we took a tour of Xian after dark. The city was lit up with millions of lights and the effect was beautiful.   We also saw fountains that spouted in time to classical favorites like The Toreador Song from Carmen and The William Tell Overture.  We drove around to see the city wall lit up at night and saw women and men dancing in the park at nine o’clock at night. The Chinese are always exercising and dancing. It is a wonderful way to live. Xian is exciting.

Quoted from National Geographic…

By John Roach

“Workers digging a well outside the city of Xi’an, China, in 1974 struck upon one of the greatest archaeological discoveries in the world: a life-size clay soldier poised for battle.  The diggers notified Chinese authorities, who dispatched government archaeologists to the site.  They found not one, but thousands of clay soldiers, each with unique facial expressions and positioned according to rank. And though largely gray today, patches of paint hint at once brightly colored clothes. Further excavations have revealed swords, arrow tips, and other weapons, many in pristine condition.

The soldiers are in trench like, underground corridors. In some of the corridors, clay horses are aligned four abreast; behind them are wooden chariots.

The terra-cotta army, as it is known, is part of an elaborate mausoleum created to accompany the first emperor of China into the afterlife, according to archaeologists.

Young Emperor

Ying Zheng took the throne in 246 B.C. at the age of 13. By 221 B.C. he had unified a collection of warring kingdoms and took the name of Qin Shi Huang Di—the First Emperor of Qin.

During his rule, Qin standardized coins, weights, and measures; interlinked the states with canals and roads; and is credited for building the first version of the Great Wall.

According to writings of court historian Siam Qian during the following Han dynasty, Qin ordered the mausoleum’s construction shortly after taking the throne. More than 700,000 laborers worked on the project, which was halted in 209 B.C. amid uprisings a year after Qin’s death.

To date, four pits have been partially excavated. Three are filled with the terra-cotta soldiers, horse-drawn chariots, and weapons. The fourth pit is empty, a testament to the original unfinished construction.

Archaeologists estimate the pits may contain as many as 8,000 figures, but the total may never be known.

Unexcavated Tomb

Qin’s tomb itself remains unexcavated, though Siam Qian’s writings suggest even greater treasures.

“The tomb was filled with models of palaces, pavilions and offices as well as fine vessels, precious stones and rarities,” reads a translation of the text.

The account indicates the tomb contains replicas of the area’s rivers and streams made with mercury flowing to the sea through hills and mountains of bronze. Precious stones such as pearls are said to represent the sun, moon, and other stars.

Modern tests on the tomb mound have revealed unusually high concentrations of mercury, lending credence to at least some of the historical account.

Chinese archaeologists are also using remote-sensing technology to probe the tomb mound. The technique recently revealed an underground chamber with four stairs like walls. An archaeologist working on the site told the Chinese press that the chamber may have been built for the soul of the emperor.

Experimental pits dug around the tomb have revealed dancers, musicians, and acrobats full of life and caught in mid-performance, a sharp contrast to the military poses of the famous terra-cotta soldiers.

But further excavations of the tomb itself are on hold, at least for now.

“It is best to keep the ancient tomb untouched, because of the complex conditions inside,” Duan Qinbao, a researcher with the Shaanxi Provincial Archaeology Institute, told the China Daily in 2006.”

October 27, Xian to Beijing

Updates to the journal have been delayed as Beijing has blocked our access to CNN, gmail and just about everything else.  Could not get mail or send mail…probably because it is a gmail account, which is linked to google, and google is blocked. Also, the hotel does not have wifi…even in the lobby. I usually can get internet service from Gary’s router since he is usually in a room nearby, but not this time.  Oh well…

Here is what has been happening since Friday.

A funny thing happened yesterday. We were sitting with the Brits and talking about how we all pronounce words differently and how we use different words for the same item.  They say tomahto…we say tomato.  They say nappies for diapers and torches for flashlights.  Then Mark said they say pastor…and I thought he was referring to the priest.  I said…oh we say pastor too. He looked at me incredulously and said really??  I said yes…but I thought you called them vicars!  Then he said…no. I’m talking about noodles…pastor!!!  I said…you mean PASTA???  He said…no… Pastor!!!!!  Oh boy!!!!  Those Brits!!!!  And when I went on to say that it’s pasta and gravy instead of pasta and tomato sauce…they just shook their heads.  Too funny!!  

This morning we visited the little wild goose pagoda.  It had beautiful and peaceful and the gardens as usual were quite lovely with roses in bloom all over in different colors. We also watched a man hand painting beautiful pictures with Chinese motifs. Allan and I purchased one…two birds in a tree and the man put our names on them in Chinese characters. 

We had lunch and then we visited the Shaanxi Museum which was filled with relics from Chinese history. We could see some of the terracotta warriors up close which was wonderful. Some of the color is gone from the warriors due to oxidation, yet 2000 years later, the swords are still quite sharp. Each warrior is signed with the location of the person who made it, and if the warrior wasn’t up to standards…off with the artist’s head. That certainly was the incentive for the artists to work very hard to manufacture a perfect warrior each time.  After that, we went to the Muslim quarter and strolled through the Islamic food markets.   Our guide Candy told us it was best not to talk to strangers, be mindful of our personal belongings, and for the Americans, don’t tell anyone we are American because of the unrest between our country and the Islams.  We stuck like sticky rice with our new Aussie friends…and kept saying…G’day mate!!   Lol!  

Candy took me to a tea house to purchase the lichee black tea that I loved so much. The tea house lady had us taste three different kinds of tea, but my favorite is still the lichee so I purchased the loose tea leaves and she placed them in a canister. Hope I don’t have trouble bringing it into the US. 

After dinner, where a delicious soup with almonds was served among other delicious items, we boarded our train to Beijing. 

October 28 Beijing

Took the overnight train again. The train station in Xian was bedlam and we did not have the VIP waiting room this time. The waiting room was hot and filled to overflowing with people waiting for their train to take them on their way.  We had to stay close to our guide like sticky rice and be wary of pickpockets. The Chinese, our guide told us, will try to get into our queue so they don’t have to wait on line. Tour groups have some priority so she told us not to let anyone into the line. Easier said then done since the Chinese are pushy. We are learning to push back. 

Our train was the fast, non-stop from Xian to Beijing, but the ride itself was not very relaxing. Woke up numerous times during the night because of the jostling.  In the morning, the train attendant just barged in… opening our door with the key, and taking out the trash. Yikes!  Good thing we were still in bed.  The sun was rising and we stood in the hallway watching the scenery go by. It is cooler now in Beijing and some of the leaves are changing color.   People were smoking in the next train car which were the cheaper beds and allow the smokers their vice. Unfortunately, sometimes the smoke wafted into our car. We had to keep the doors closed.  The happy houses on the two overnight trains were not as terrible as we feared and the attendants keep them clean during the night. 

We had breakfast in the hotel immediately upon our arrival as the train arrived after 7 am.   We could check into our rooms and take a much-needed shower. We had free time until lunch to just relax, nap or read. The hotel is very nice…but no wifi which is unbelievable.  

The hotels have beautiful lobbies and the rooms have been okay…but the bathroom faucets and handles are made from cheap metal and are always rusting. I don’t know why they don’t spend the money for better ones since they put marble all over the bathrooms and they usually have beautiful showers.   One complaint we all have had is that mold is always in the silicon grout around shower and tubs. If they would replace it periodically, it would be so much better. At least they are clean and the bedding is always immaculate. 

We met for lunch at a local restaurant around noon and then off to start touring Beijing.

Beijing has a population of over 23 million. It looks just like all the other big cities we have been to.  It is very clean and because of the Olympics, I’m thinking it has been updated quite a bit. Yet…no wifi in the hotel???  That really is a first!

We toured the Lama temple, which was interesting to see, but no picture taking was allowed inside. Many people were praying in front of the many Buddhas that were there and lighting incense. We walked through four temples and then some of us decided to go out on our own to the silk street market for some shopping. It was a beautiful day in Beijing…sun shining and no pollution which apparently is a rarity.  

We asked our local tour guide, Peter to drop us near the market, however he dropped us off in the middle of nowhere and we were to take a cab to the silk market.  Alas, no cabs. Finally, I asked a young couple walking along and in broken English they told us we could walk there from where we were. Another 15 minutes and we arrived. 

The market has floor after floor of merchandise…watches, jade, jewelry, Polo and Gant shirts, silk scarves, electronics, slippers, and on and on. Most of you know how much I love to shop…so this was not up my alley. I bargained for an item that I wanted and not even knowing what a good price was, I told the merchant that I was shopping around and if she had the best price I would be back. She dropped the price another fifty Yuan.  Finally, I could get away to the next store to price things and this lady was a tough one. She wouldn’t let me out of the store.  Seriously!!  I finally had to call Allan over to help me.   When I did get out…she gave me a final price, but I walked away.  She came running after me after awhile and dropped the price another 80 Yuan…much cheaper than the first woman. I was still unsure if it was even a good price…so I left. I was so exhausted with the bargaining that Allan and I and another guy, Rich from the group went and had a cappuccino. Whew!!!

We met up with the others and had to negotiate a cab ride back to the hotel to meet up with everyone else for dinner.   No cabs to be found that had meters…and a man came over and said he would take all seven of us in his van for 200 Yuan. We said no and walked away.  When we couldn’t find a cab still, he came back to us and said 100 Yuan. He had no insurance…wasn’t registered, but we knew we had to get back to the hotel so off we went with him. Holy mother of God!!!!! What a ride we had. They are crazy drivers here and we had one hair raising close call after another. No seat belts and when he made a 90-degree turn and then a 90-degreeturn to get around a bus and between another car…I thought we were done for. He missed the turn for the hotel and had to call the hotel to find out how to get there.  Then he got mad, turned off the car engine in the middle of the traffic, calmed down and we finally got back. The group was just leaving to go for supper as we were ten minutes late. The driver wanted more money…but we gave him the 100 Yuan that he wanted originally and he went away quite disappointed. There wasn’t much he could do with the entire tour group standing there. 

We had dinner at another local restaurant and some of us were going to go to Tiananmen Square at night, but between our afternoon adventure and last nights’ train ride, we all called it a day.  We met down at the bar for a beer and went off to bed. 

Our hotel room is beastly hot and Allan is gong to see if we can change rooms.  We are not in a very good area and we are in the middle of nowhere and so it is hard to get around if you don’t want to go with the tour group. We all feel that these last few days there has been too much down time in the itinerary and we wish we could be seeing more of Beijing. If our hotel was in the main part of the city, it would be easier to get around. 

Allan did change our room…and now we have a very nice corner room overlooking the city. Much better…and much cooler!

October 29  Beijing

We are concerned about the super storm bearing down on the east coast. . I’m sure Ken, Marcelle and Gavin will have to evacuate and since we don’t have wifi…it is a little disconcerting being out of the loop.  Gary and Chi will write to them to try to get updates. 

We took waaaay too much toilet paper with us. It wasn’t needed at all. True, most happy houses that we visit do not have toilet paper…but one can always take some from the hotels each morning, so it is not a problem. 

This morning it was a jungle in the hotel breakfast area. A lot of Europeans came in and they really push and shove to get to the food. I almost had my shoulder dislocated by one overly zealous woman.  We are learning to stand our ground and push back when necessary.  Crossing the street here in Beijing…and for that matter in all of china…you can’t fight the cars. They just keep coming at you and will not stop. It’s a little frightening.   You also must be alert for the bikes and the motor scooters because they just plunge through as well.  Crossing a New York street is a piece of cake compared to this. At least the cars stop in NY. 

We went to Tienneman Square and the Forbidden City this morning. It was amazing standing in the square and sobering to think of the students who gave their lives for democracy. Our guide told us he could not answer any political questions on the square as he would get into a lot of trouble.  He told us that there are cameras and plain clothes police all over monitoring what is said and warned us to also be careful that our words did not sully the Communist Party. 

The Chinese flag has five stars…one large one representing the Communist Party and four smaller ones representing soldier, farmer, worker and citizen.  Tienneman Square is the symbol of China.   The square is quite large (500 meters x 800 meters) and people from very rural areas come to see the square as every Chinese person should visit the square at least once in their lifetime.  Our guide told us not to be surprised if the rural people take our pictures as they do not often leave their homes and do not see non-Chinese people.  After seeing the square and watching the soldiers marching in and out with precision, we went on to the Forbidden City.

In 1421, the first emperor moved to Beijing to live in the city and emperors…24 in all……lived there throughout the Ming and Qing dynasties, spanning over 500 years.  The last Emperor ended residency in 1911.  The Emperors lived there with their concubines and many eunuchs (castrated young males) and it is thought that 10,000 people lived in the city at one time.  

Construction started in 1407 and took 14 years to complete. The Forbidden City is 90 hectares in size.  One million laborers toiled to build the homes, and where the concubines lived there were over 800 rooms. The emperor would sleep with a different concubine each night…for four hours only…never the entire night…and only the two eunuchs who escorted the concubine into the room would know the whereabouts of the emperor. This was so an assassin would not be able to kill the emperor as each nightly room was different.  Eunuchs lived within the walls to be sure that the children of the concubines would be from the emperor himself…and no one else. 

The concubines were not permitted to leave the city, but could visit their family after being four years in residence. Not every concubine had the honor of sleeping with the Emperor. 

We had lunch in the Forbidden City and then toured a bit more…seeing the rooms where the empress and her concubines lived and then we went back to the hotel. It was a beautiful day…again, a rarity in Beijing. It was a bit chilly walking around but the afternoon warmed up nicely. I visited the happy house and overheard a group of Europeans saying that you musthold your own with the pushy Americans.  Wow!!!!  That’s what we say about them!!!!  Obviously, at one time or another, either an American or a European became pushy somewhere in the world…and that started the whole controversy. I think if we could start again, we all would be perceived as nice folks…not pushy and well meaning.  

October 30  Beijing

Chairman Mao said you are not a Chinese hero until you climb the Great Wall.  Well…we are Chinese heroes because we climbed the Great wall.  I could go half way up…but unfortunately, I turned around to look back and realized how high up I was and got a little panicky that I wouldn’t be able to get down if I continued.  We turned, and walked back…but at least we can say we did it part way. 

The day dawned sunny and bright and we were very lucky to be able to see for miles and miles in the crisp air and the cloudless blue skies. The place on the wall where they took us was very steep which was a shame since other areas are not and we could have climbed much higher. A Chinese girl came down after going just a few steps and she was clinging to the side…terrified. That was me as well. It was very steep and frightening for someone afraid of heights. Waaaay out of my comfort zone.  Chi asked her if she was afraid and she said yes…and I told her that I was too. 

Many in our tour who have been to the wall before were very disappointed that Wendy Wu decided to take us to this section of the wall, which was difficult to navigate.  They said there were many sections nearby that were not as steep and those spots would have given everyone who wanted to, the opportunity to experience one of the wonders of the world.  I was disappointed as well since I only went half way. It truly was exceptionally steep and the steps were very difficult since they were so high. 

The Great Wall was started some 2,000 years ago and it is one of the seven wonders of the world.  The wall is about three thousand miles in length.  

I could have paid for this trip if I had hung a sign around my neck…Photo with Me…10 Yuan!!!  Everyone wanted a pic with the blonde woman. Toofunny!   

We went to a jade factory afterwards. Beautiful carved statues and then into the jewelry area for the spiel. While the saleswoman was giving her talk…the other sales people were sizing us up…trying to predict who among us would be the purchasers.  The merchandise was very expensive.  We had our lunch at the jade factory and then went to visit the Summer Palace.

On the way to the summer palace, we stopped at the Olympic site and saw the water cube and the birds nest where the 2008 summer Olympics took place.  It was exciting to be in the same spot and walk the same path that Michael Phelps no doubt walked along when he won his eight gold Olympicmedals!!  

Empress Ci Xi, the dragon lady, built the summer palace. At 17 she became one of the emperor’s concubines at the Forbidden City. She was smart, knowledgeable, and could sing beautifully as well as dance. She wanted to be noticed by the emperor, so she paid the eunuchs to tell her when the emperor would be returning and what path he would take. She made sure she was nearby singing.  She hid so the emperor had to find her by following her song.  When the emperor saw how beautiful she was, he fell in love with her and she became one of the main concubines.   She bore him a son…which elevated her position to empress dowager – the one who ruled the concubines. Her son died when he was 19 and she chose her nephew to become emperor. However, she eventually poisoned him and then chose another boy the day before she died at age 48.  Her claim to fame was the summer palace, which is three times the size of the Forbidden City. 

There is a beautiful lake surrounding the area and a concrete boat building at the end of a long path. There is a beautiful corridor getting to the boat area that has exquisite paintings along the way…both on the upper walls and along the beams across the ceiling.  Unfortunately, the place is in disrepair and Chi said it has really gone down since he was here thirty-three years ago. 

After visiting the palace, we went to see an acrobatic show which was impressive when five motor cycles went into a spherical cage and zoomed around…missing each other by what seemed to be inches. Yikes!

There was a notice on the stage before the show and it read…

Theater notice:  

1. Do not smoke in the theater

2.  Do not throw peel and waste paper within the theater 

3.  After the show begin do not shouting loudly please.  If necessary please pass go on both sides of the passage. 

4.  After the performance please an orderly leave theater.  Don’t crowded past on to safety. 

Had dinner in a local restaurant…rather dirty on the floor and the place looked like it might not pass health department standards…but the food was delicious. It is where the local Chinese go and it was crowded so I guess they know where the good food is.

We have had unbelievable weather throughout our trip. Not one day of rain…very unusual.  It has been cold in Beijing, but sunny. 

October 31, Beijing

Today we first went to a park on the grounds of The Temple of Heaven.  The older Chinese folks go there to exercise and to socialize. There was gym equipment everywhere and all the Chinese were working out.   The women were doing sit-ups on the bars, men were doing push-ups and they were dancing and singing. There was a chorale group practicing and they sounded beautiful.  Mah Jong and cards were being played all over and people were playing badminton and ping-pong.  I wish that the states would put in this type of equipment in the public parks.  While at the park, severalus bought beautiful handcrafted hats for 25 Yuan!!  The seller wanted 30 Yuan, but our guide negotiated an even better price. The seller had to be careful as the police were watching her and came out from behind a tree admonishing her and telling her to go away. We had to wait for the police to leave to hand over our money and quickly grab our hats.   The hats are warm and fashionable and we all had our picture taken wearing them. 

We went to the Temple of Heaven, which was beautiful against the blue sky. The weather has truly been amazing…much better than the tour books predicted.  

After seeing the temple, we went out to lunch at a restaurant and had some Chinese pizza which was quite good.  The other offerings were also delicious and we could get draft beer. We have beer at every meal.  The pizza was not as good as New York pizza of course, but the crust was better than most. 

We then went to the silk street market and had fun bargaining for trinkets and other such things. They drive a hard bargain and you must be firm in what you want to pay. I did very well with my purchase and the boss yelledat the saleswoman because she gave me such a great deal. Then she was angry with me…taking the purchases and shoving them into bags and muttering.  It was fun for the hour…but it is not something I’d want to do every day. We walked over to Starbucks for a much-needed cappuccino. 

Candy our guide showed us where her father had a restaurant. He had made quite a good living and she lived like a princess in those days. But then the SARS epidemic hit a few years ago, and her father lost his business and his money because people were afraid to go out into public areas. She said she went from being a spoiled princess to being Cinderella and having to earn a living. 

Tonight, was the Farewell Peking Duck dinner.  The chef came in and sliced thin pieces of duck and thin pancakes were presented as well.  Celery and bamboo shoots came sliced in thin strips and we were taught how to dip each piece of vegetable and meat into a sauce, place all on the pancake and roll it up.  Most people enjoyed the duck…there was quite a lot of it to share…but I thought it tasted gamey so I didn’t have any more. There were other dishes to enjoy and after dinner, we shared email addresses, took photos and bid farewell to early travelers who had to catch flights early in the morning. 

We met some very nice people on this trip and made new friends that I’m sure we will stay in touch with…and possibly travel with again.  This China trip was a fabulous experience and China is a fascinating country. I am so happy that we had the opportunity to see so much of this huge place and to experience as much as we did.  Meeting the Chinese people, who are so proud of their heritage, will be something we will not soon forget. 

On to our next experience…Hong Kong!!

November 1 Hong Kong

It’s another beautiful day in Beijing and we met our friends this morning for breakfast before traveling to the airport for our flight. It was a tearful goodbye as we promised to keep in touch.  We really enjoyed Chris and Tom’s company all throughout our trip and we are hoping to meet up with them again sometime for a vacation…. and at the very least, to keep in touch with one another.  

Our flight was uneventful and we arrived in warm Hong Kong, which was a pleasant change from the chilly air of Beijing. The sun was shining and our guide met us promptly.  We arrived at our hotel…our room is small but clean and we must pay for wifi which is a disappointment. 

Chi, Gary, Allan and I walked around the streets of Hong Kong looking for a place to eat and Chi was invaluable in reading the food offerings of all the restaurants. Most of the places are small and the place we chose was cooking the food out on the sidewalk.  Chi ordered for us and the food was amazingly delicious!!!!!  We asked for napkins and we were told that we would have to pay four dollars for a bag!!  Our meal cost 380 Hong Kong dollars and it was worth every penny.  

We went to a convenient store and bought Tim Tam…a cookie that was recommended to us by our Australian friends. It is graham cracker covered in chocolate. Yum!  We also bought peanut m and m’s and chips (crisps according to the brits that were on our trip) and some dark chocolate. Chi and Gary introduced us to sugar cane juice…something that is hard to get in the states. It tastes like sweet tea…very nice. We looked for lichee black tea but there was none to be found.  

Time to go to bed. It’s been a long and emotional day and tomorrow we start bright and early with a Hong Kong tour. 

November 2, Hong Kong

We had a western breakfast this morning in the hotel. I kind of miss the Chinese breakfasts that I’ve gotten used to during our stay on the mainland.  I had to ask for chopsticks this morning to eat my veggies. They did have congee with beans…so I was happy about that.

It is another glorious day and we are off to tour Hong Kong. 

China is one country with two systems, as Hong Kong doesn’t follow the rules set out by the mainland. Hong Kong and Kowloon are civilized areas.  Very clean with western style bathrooms with soap, hand towels and toilet paper!!!!  Also, there aren’t people spitting in the streets like you always see and hear in Mainland China.  Hooray!!!!!  There are about seven million people living on the limited land space here and housing is a huge problem. Most people live in the skyscrapers and they are built on landfill made fromchunks of rocks taken from demolishing mountains.  The super rich can afford to buy their homes and 60% of the population is living in Government subsidized homes.  Buying an apartment is about $1000 per square foot so the average family lives in about 400 square feet. 

There are no bridges that connect Kowloon (on the mainland) to Hong Kong island…only three tunnels. The waterways are so crowded with boats for shipping that if they had to constantly open bridges to allow boat passage, the traffic jams on the bridge would be catastrophic. 

The rush hour traffic is horrific…don’t take a taxi here because the bill would be high as you sit and wait in traffic. 6% of the residents own cars…and the ones that own them…own them for status. The cars of the wealthy on the mountain are Mercedes, Lexus, BMW, Ferrari, and even Lamborghini.  Our guide in Beijing used a BMW…Bike to the Metro and then Walk!!!!  LOL!!

The people who live in Hong Kong can travel to China and even work or live there, but the people on the mainland can only visit Hong Kong. In Hong Kong, medical is paid for and the patient only must pay about fifteen dollars for a visit to the doctor. There is about 3% unemployment in Hong Kong with no benefits. 

Our bus tour climbed to Victoria peak and the view was spectacular since it wasn’t foggy. Usually…you can’t see anything with the fog. The peak is 1800 feet above sea level. We saw some lovely homes along the way owned by millionaires.  Two of the millionaires have more than one wife since it was legal during the war.  There is only a one-wife policy now. However, you can have as many children as you want since the one child rule is only on the mainland. 

After seeing the peak, we went to Stanley market to shop. One guy on the tour latched on to me…and followed Allan and me all throughout the market. How annoying. Allan said my “nut beacon” was functioning quite well. Fortunately, we lost him at the end of the tour and he went back to his hotel.  Whew!!!

We went to Aberdeen, which is a fishing village. Generations of folks have lived on the water in houseboats…paying no mortgage or rent…and fishing to make a living. The children must take a sampan to get to land for school. I took a sampan ride and could see the fishing boats up close. Fish was drying from lines and women were gutting them and cutting them up for sale.  Some of the boats have electricity and A/C as the lines are under the water. The boats are sometimes larger than an apartment on land. There are about 2100 boats now in the village…down from a much larger number as kids become educated and go off to land to find good jobs, unlike their ancestors. 

We passed a cemetery that was private. You had to pay for a plot. Most Chinese are buried in the government cemetery, but after seven years, the body is dug up and given to the family to keep at home in an urn and another family takes the plot for seven years. Most people just cremate their loved ones to avoid having to go through that. 

Our guide took Gary, Chi, Allan and me to a delicious dim sum restaurant after the tour. We offered to buy him lunch because he was such a great guide for our half day tour, but he refused saying he had to get back to work. We were right at a window overlooking the water and had a delicious meal. 

Walked around Kowloon for a while and then went back to the hotel for a little rest. Walked back to the waterfront and had dinner at The Jade Garden…a Cantonese cuisine. It was very good…especially the steamed buns with coconut sauce. 

Afterwards, we walked to the promenade at the waterfront for the Symphony of Lights laser show in the harbor. The laser lights came from many of the skyscrapers along the water. Beautiful. 

Early day tomorrow as we go to Lantau Island. 

November 3, 

The hotel we are staying in is the BP International which doesn’t stand for Best Hotel…or British Petroleum.but rather Baden Powell…founder of the Boy Scouts of America.  There was a huge Boy Scout store on the 11th floor and the fleur de lis insignia is all over the building.  A huge picture of Baden hangs in the lobby, along with a bronze statue of scouts.  

They drive on the left side of the road here, so you must be careful crossing the street.  They do have huge signs written on the road saying look left or look right which is helpful. Crossing the street is easy…the lights are timed with a rattling noise that speeds up when you are crossing and slows down when the light will turn red. There is no jay walking allowed…or crossing on a red light. One couple did it and was admonished on the loud speaker of a police car. 

Chi is sick so both Gary and he decided to stay at the hotel while Allan and I did some sightseeing. The MTR (subway system) is quite easy to navigate and off we went to see the big Buddha on Lantau Island. The trains are beautiful…no eating or drinking is allowed and they are immaculate. You can figure out where to get on and off easily since all trains have a map with blinking lights to tell you where the next stop is. The Buddha was certainly impressive…as was the cable car ride to get there. Yikes!  I usually don’t like to ride in cable cars, but I decided to get out of my comfort zone and do it. I’m glad I did because the ride was truly beautiful…except on the way back when the wind picked up and our cable car started to swing. Double yikes!  We were very high and could see the airport, which is on a landfill island and also the beautiful water views.  

The giant Buddha is located at the Po Lin monastery. Giant Buddha covers an area of 6,547 square meters. It is the world’s largest seated outdoor bronze Buddha statue.  The statue is 26 meters high and is made of 202 separate bronze pieces and it weighs in at 250 tons.   It sits in a lotus throne on top of a three-platform altar inside of which is an exhibition center.  The Buddha was honored as one of the ten engineering wonders of Hong Kong. 

At the monastery, it was interesting to see a Mercedes parked in the back, yet all the monks were wearing robes that looked rather tawdry. Also…the toilets were not like Hong Kong, but were dirty with no soap and severalsquat ones as well as western ones. Guess the donation money doesn’t pay for upkeep in the bathrooms…but perhaps goes for transportation!  Lol!  Lots of dogs around…and there were signs up all over “no meat or alcohol allowed”, because of the Buddhist monastery.  Those dogs were safe. Dog meat is popular in china.  

We had a delicious snack that was included in the admission price to see the Buddha…two pieces of dim sum and a bowl of noodles for each of us. Delicious!  I really love Chinese food and will miss the steamed buns. 

We took the train back to Hong Kong and got on a ferry to visit Lamma Island, which our friend Tom said was beautiful with great fish restaurants. The ferry ride was very nice as we passed the skyline of skyscrapers.  We walked and walked but never found the beach…lots of construction going on. A lot of the homes are just shacks ready to tumble down. We did, however find a bar and a beer so one out of three “B”‘s wasn’t bad. We had a delicious Guinness on tap!  Creamy and delicious!!  Lots of dogs here as well and we passed a shop named All About Cats…but there were dogs inside all standing around. Weird. By the way, here they speak Cantonese and chi said be careful of ordering chicken because with a different intonation…a prostitute might be brought to the table. 

Someone on our china tour with Wendy Wu said the national bird of china is the crane!  That would be the construction crane because there was construction all over every city we went to in mainland china. Here…not too many cranes…but we did see a lot of other types of birds.  

We took the ferry back to Hong Kong and then boarded the famous Star Ferry back to Kowloon for one last look at the harbor and the skyline.  When we got to shore, we saw a booth being set up with a banner that read “Hong Kong residents for quitting the communist party”.  Interesting.  

The weather again today was fabulous!!!   By the way, we did not have one single day of rain this entire trip.  I spoke to other folks who were on a 17 day Wendy wu tour and they said it rained every day and one day they even had snow. We were lucky indeed. 

Tonight, we had a hot pot dinner which was an experience. The place had very small tables and we hardly had any room to cook the food and put the cooked food on plates. Allan an i inadvertently ordered the beef and fish.  It came with fish skin that looked like potato chips and tripe.  yuck!  

After dinner, we bid good bye to Gary and Chi.  It was a wonderful vacation and lots of fun being with both of them. Chi of course was helpful many times for translations during the trip and we all had a lot of laughs together…sometimes about the people on our tour…and sometimes just having fun about the sights we toured.  Tomorrow we catch our flight back to the states and we hope that our community in Oxford fared well with super-storm sandy barreling through and that friends and family are all okay. 

We want to thank you all for coming on this journey with us.  We hope you enjoyed reading the daily journal updates of our adventures each day as we traveled over 7,400 kilometers through mainland China and then quite a few more kilometers in Hong Kong. It truly was a trip of a lifetime for us and I loved sharing it all with you. We will be in touch with you all when we return. 

November 4

This morning the wake up call we put in for consisted of someone knocking on our door and saying, “wake up”!  Too funny!!

They gave us a box breakfast to eat in the hotel lobby since we had to leave on the bus to the airport at 6:40 am. The breakfast consisted of:

1 egg hardboiled

1 apple

1 sandwich with undetermined meat and lots of mayo (on white bread…with the crusts taken off. Nice touch!)

1 orange juice

1 small wedge of cheese

No napkins. 

Hong Kong is stingy with paper napkins. Most restaurants do not give you any and as I think I mentioned, one restaurant we went to we would have had to buy a pack if we wanted them. 

Wifi in airport. Hooray!!  Enjoying a cappuccino before the long flight. Will be in touch when we get back to the states.