Japan – Trains, Drums, Tea, and Cherry Blossoms…

We started the morning having breakfast on the western side of the hotel restaurant. I’ve been spoiled in only one day, with Japanese breakfasts, so tomorrow we will be back enjoying steamed dumplings and tiny meatballs at the Japanese side. The western breakfast wasn’t thrilling, as it offered the usual suspects – scrambled eggs, breads, and fruit, with a few other dishes thrown in. The Japanese menu was so much better.

After breakfast, we walked to the subway and boarded a train to Asakusa. The subway system is very organized. You place your transit card on the flat area, it is scanned, and the gates open. You stand in designated spots, but when the train comes, you must enter quickly, as the train will not wait and the doors will close.

The subway is immaculate as is the train, and before we knew it, we were at our destination and emerging out into the streets. It was raining today, but we all were prepared with raincoats and umbrellas so the light rain didn’t rain on our parade.

Our first stop was the Kaminarimon Gate, or Thunder Gate, with its giant red lantern and statues of the god of Thunder on the right, and the Wind god on the left. It is Asakusa’s most famous landmark, which was proven by the crowds of people waiting to have their pictures taken in front of the gate, before passing through and into the merchant street beyond, where souvenirs abounded.

We continued our walk and finally arrived for our Taiko drum lesson. Taiko drums are ceremonial drums that have been used throughout Japan’s history and are handmade using wood from the Japanese zelkova tree. The heads of the drums are made from cow hides and will determine the sound of the drum when struck with the drumsticks. The drum is tuned by stretching the hide and tuning must be done periodically to preserve the pitch.
We had the pleasure of listening to a performance by a 22 year old drum master, on one of the Taiko drums. The drums are LOUD and I found myself wishing I had thought to bring earplugs, something that this young girl did not use, and didn’t intend to ever use in the future. We all were concerned that she will likely be deaf by the age of 60.
After her amazing performance, we had the opportunity to beat out rhythms, under her guidance, to make our own music as a group. The master taught us the proper way to hold the sticks and the way to bring your arm up high and then bring it down, bending at the elbow, before striking the drum head. It is an art form that will no doubt be preserved, as more than ever, people are learning the Taiko drumming techniques to keep the tradition alive. We thanked the young drum master and walked on to visit the Sensoji Temple, which is a Buddhist temple founded in the 7th century, thus becoming the oldest temple in Tokyo (although much of the temple has been rebuilt because of WW II).

In front of the temple is a huge incense burner and as you pass, you are engulfed in the smoke. Our guide encouraged us to go close to the burner and with our hands, waft the smoke towards a body part that might need healing, as it is thought that doing so will definitely purify and heal that ailment.

After our visit to the temple, we had a delicious lunch of beef stew over rice, but we couldn’t take time to savor it, since we were due at a formal Japanese tea ceremony that we had to rush to get to for our reservation.

We were greeted at the door by our hosts, and after sitting down, we cleansed our hands and then we were presented with cherry blossom water, with an edible salted blossom inside, to be enjoyed before the actual ceremony took place. We then performed the shoe etiquette that I mentioned yesterday, removing our shoes and entering the tea room. Traditionally, guests would enter the tea room via a low and narrow door, which shows respect for the host, but we were not asked to participate in that part of the ritual.

Most of us sat crossed legged on tatami mats and watched our host go through the beautiful ritual of preparing Matcha tea. We were first given a savory sweet that would help enhance the flavor of the tea. Then our host commenced with the ceremony, implementing with grace the many steps that are required. The ceremony from start to finish was peaceful and meaningful, and if you are interested, you can google Japanese tea ceremonies to understand more about its significance and the elegant beauty of it.
When the ceremony was over, we left the tea room and sat down where we first enjoyed the blossom water, and we made our own Matcha tea, using the technique we learned from our host.

We bid our host goodbye, and then walked to what was the highlight of the day for me – a cherry blossom river cruise. The cherry blossoms are in full bloom and our guide arranged for us to take this 45 minute ride, with gorgeous cherry blossom trees flanking the river. It was glorious, and we all enjoyed seeing not only the cherry trees, but the unique buildings along the way. The sun had broken through the clouds as we boarded the boat and stayed with us for the rest of the afternoon.
When our boat ride was over, we strolled through the Hama-rikyu gardens, where beauty was everywhere – from the blooming cherry trees, to the many varieties of Japanese trees, to the shimmering lake which reflected the hanging branches of the blossoms. It was a restful and peaceful walk.

We returned to the hotel to get ready for the Welcome Dinner. The dinner took place in a nearby restaurant, where we were served sake, (I consumed a rather full glasses during dinner), and then was served multiple courses of savory food. I enjoyed the sashimi, as well as the tempura vegetables, and miso soup, but the smoked mackerel and the other fish that were served, were not to my liking, as I’m not a fish person. Matcha ice cream was served for dessert (Allan ate mine) and then we took cabs back to the hotel to pack our overnight bags to bring with us to Hakone, where we will be staying for the next two nights. Our other luggage will be shipped on to Kanazawa, since when we leave Hakone after our two night visit, we will take the bullet train to Kanazawa, and the train can’t accommodate the larger pieces of luggage.

Kaminarimon Gate
The Taiko drum master
A beautiful little girl
Incense
Sensoji Temple,
Sweets
Matcha tea
Cherry blossom cruise
River cruise
Hama-rikyu gardens
Hama-rikyu gardens
Hama-rikyu gardens
Welcome dinner fare

Japan – Japanese Breakfast, Irene Sumo Wrestling, Meiji Shrine, and Tokyo at night

Com’on readers…all three of you. If that headline about me sumo wrestling doesn’t pique your interest to read on, I don’t know what will.

But before I get into that, let me just say, today was an amazing day! First, we ate breakfast in the Japanese restaurant in the hotel. The cuisine offered many delicacies we have never tried before, and each dish we sampled was delicious! The textures, the flavors, and even the dishes in the “unknown” category (as we had no clue what they were), were stellar, and I went back for seconds.

After breakfast, Allan and I went for a quick walk around town. One can’t help but notice how immaculate the streets are…not a gum wrapper or coffee cup to be seen blowing around. The people are friendly, helpful, unassuming, polite, and kind. It’s a pleasure to embrace this beautiful country.

We got back in time to meet up with our group for an orientation meeting with our guide Hiro. (Every morning at these meetings, by the way, he will be taking our temperatures before we embark on the day’s activities.) This morning, Hiro explained what we have to look forward to for the rest of the adventure, went over some safety rules, and reviewed what the protocols will be for the various sites we are scheduled to visit. (There apparently is a “shoe etiquette” procedure that we will follow in order to be respectful when taking off our shoes before we enter someone’s home or before entering a shrine. See photo explanation below.)

After our orientation, we boarded a bus to visit an actual sumo wrestling ring, where wrestling bouts are held. The ring itself isn’t that large and with the size of the wrestlers, (over 300 lbs), it doesn’t give much room to fight. The goal is for each wrestler to use different techniques by either forcing his opponent to step out of the ring, or by making him touch the ground with any body part other than the soles of his feet.

The owner of the restaurant, along with a fellow wrestler, welcomed us when we arrived, and after we were seated, they both began demonstrating what sumo wrestling entails, beginning with the ritual of purification. Sumo has been popular in Japan for over 1,000 years. Young children can be recruited by scouts at the age of 12, but they must continue with their schooling until they are 15, before they can leave school and their familes to live in what is called a stable, a place where sumo wrestlers live and train. There are about 44 stables around Japan today, and each one is managed by a former wrestler who was in the top ranked division before his retirement. As of now, there are over 600 wrestlers living and training in these stables across the country.

The wrestlers explained what a typical day is like for them living in the stable: They wake up before 5 am, brush their teeth, wash their faces and then train from 5 am to 11 am, perfecting the techniques needed for the fight. Afterwards, they practice in the ring for another hour, employing the techniques they have just learned. After this rigorous workout, they cook breakfast together, and then they EACH put away about ten pounds (yes…10 POUNDS) of food, equating to over 10,000 calories. The meal consists of chicken, eggs, rice, tofu, vegetables, and carbohydrates, as they are trying to gain the immense weight needed for the sport. Sadly, this obesity can lead to diabetes, which actually is very prevalent among the wrestlers, as are severe injuries. The wrestlers see a doctor for health checkups four times a year. After eating their first meal of the day, they clean up the dishes and then take a bath together. The top ranked wrestlers go into the bath first to wash off the mud from the sumo wrestling ring, and the lower ranked wrestlers wash and scrub their backs. Then, the lower ranked are allowed to enter the baths, but by then, the bath water is pretty dirty.

After bathing, it’s nap time and then more workouts, and at night, they cook and eat their second and final meal of the day, (they only eat two meals each day) consuming another 10 lbs or more of food.

The majority of the wrestlers never make the top division, where they will be paid to fight in the ring with other top ranking wrestlers from other stables, so that people can pay to come and watch the matches. The ones that don’t make top ranking receive a stipend for spending money, which they receive every other month. While living in the stable, all the wrestlers room and board is included. Their life is training. No dating and no thoughts of marriage or children until they finally retire. The goal for the top rated wrestlers is to maintain their ranking in their division, while the lower ranked try hard every day to obtain it.

Sumo wrestling involves an intricate pushing of bodies and grabbing of each other’s loin cloths to knock the weaker wrestler out of the ring. There are many rules, and many different techniques are employed that have been laid out through the centuries. It really is fascinating.

We were invited to try our luck pushing one of the wrestlers over in a match. No one volunteered at first, so of course, I had to get up and try it. I pretended to start to push one of the wrestlers, but then I pointed over his shoulder and yelled, “Look!! What’s that!” and when he started to look, I immediately started to push. He was surprised and laughed, but guess what – this guy was like a tree and he did not move, even after my trickery to catch him off-guard. It was a lot of fun and soon, after my bravery, some others got up to try their luck, again to no avail.

After the demonstration, we sat down to Chanko, prepared especially for us by the wrestlers. It is a hot pot dish which traditionally is consumed by sumo wrestlers to maintain their competitive physique. This hearty soup typically features a chicken broth base, large quantities of protein, and vegetables such as daikon and bok choy. To increase the calorie intake, wrestlers typically pair this meal with large quantities of rice. The Chanko was delicious and I even had second helpings.

We bid farewell to the wrestlers and then the bus took us to the Meiji Shrine located within a beautiful forest. After walking through the lush greenery, we came upon the gateway to the shrine. We bowed before entering the portals to the shrine and then went over to the shrine itself. Our leader showed us how to climb the steps to the shrine, deeply bow two times, clap our hands twice, fold our hands in prayer, silently tell the deity our name (so the deity knows who we are) and then silently tell our petition. Deeply bow one more time before leaving, and quietly walk away. It was a very touching moment.

We drove back to the hotel as darkness descended upon the city, and went for a walk through the streets of Tokyo with our guide. Tokyo reminds me of midtown Manhattan, all the high-end stores like Prada and Versace with their neon lights illuminating the streets. We even stopped in a high-end fruit store that sells very expensive fruit for gift giving. A cantaloupe went for the equivalent of over $200. “Honey, I bought you a cantaloupe for your birthday this year.” “Oh, sweetheart. How did you know that’s exactly what I wanted? It ranks right up there with the vacuum you bought me last year!” 🤪.

All I’m saying…that cantaloupe better be quite tasty!

We walked to a restaurant for a beer and some snacks, compliments of our guide, and then we ordered another beer, and some skewers of pork and chicken, while we sat and enjoyed talking with the group.

It was a little chilly walking back to the hotel. Tomorrow we have a very busy day, so it’s right to bed.

Breakfast menu
I’m having my second helping of breakfast
Hey, look over there!
That was a tricky ploy you used on me
You’re with that trickster, aren’t you!
Bottoms up!
No more tricking us!!!
Tokyo at night
Expensive cantaloupes
Buddhist temple
Petitions written by people who visit the shrine. These wooden petitions will eventually be burned, and the ashes will waft up to the deity.
The delicious Chanko with rice that we were served for lunch. It is impolite to mix the rice into the soup. It should be consumed separately. Did you know that to praise the chef’s culinary prowess in soup making, loud slurping noises is encouraged?
Wrestling ring which is covered in dirt.
Shoe etiquette. We need to practice this for sure!

Japan- Tokyo

We boarded our flight to Tokyo, and before take off, the pilot told us it would be a bumpy ride and because of headwinds, our arrival would be delayed. We put our seatbelts on but on this United flight, we also had to strap in with shoulder straps, and they came around to make sure we were all safely secured. The plane started to taxi, and we just kept going, and going, and going, and going. I’m thinking if we don’t find the runway soon, we’re going to have to refuel! Finally, after taxiing for about a half hour, we were 3rd in line for takeoff!
It was a fabulous flight. The food on United was excellent, and they fed us often. (Although, disappointingly, they did not have ramen for a snack. They told me that they used to do that, but since covid, things have changed, but they are hoping to offer it again in the near future.) One of the crew was balancing a glass on his head in the galley for the amusement of his fellow crew members, and when he came to ask me what I’d like for dessert I told him I was impressed with his balancing act. He laughed saying, “Oh, you saw that?” I said, “Yes, very impressive during a bumpy ride!” And then he offered me two desserts! 😂

The headwinds added another hour and 17 minutes to the already 13 plus hour flight, and we arrived to what I will refer to as Haneda Airport Hell. It was bedlam, and we had to go through probably 15 queue lines weaving back and forth the length of the huge room, to finally arrive at customs. We were fingerprinted, had our photos taken, and then we finally picked up our luggage and met our driver. We rode to our hotel with two other ladies who are on the trip and we enjoyed sharing our travel stories with each other along the way.

We met our guide Hiro who hugged us warmly, helped us check in, and then gave a mini briefing. Everyday, he will give us a sheet with the day’s itinerary, the weather for the day, what to bring with us, etc. which will be very helpful. Our room is actually larger than I thought it would be and comes replete with tub, shower, and bidet.

Even though we slept fairly well on the plane, the aftermath of the airport fun really did us in. We asked Hiro for places to eat dinner and he told us Hooters was across the street. Say what now? Allan and I actually went to Hooters whenever we would visit South Carolina when we lived down south. That particular one has the best burgers… but other ones we tried, not so much. We really weren’t very hungry, so we just walked around and since I was still craving ramen, we stopped in one place and asked if they served it. The guy emphatically took umbrage and said “No!!!! This is…!!!!!!! (lost in translation), but he did take us outside and explained where we could get ramen, and so we found a small (very small…sat maybe 12 people) and ordered it. Everything was in Japanese and English on the menu along with pictures, so it was easy to find our choice. The ramen was delicious and very satisfying. We ate with chopsticks and soup spoons , savoring each bite.

We walked back to our hotel, Ginza Grand Hotel, and called it a night.
Tomorrow we have to get up early to be at breakfast before 7am as Hiro said the hotel is filled to capacity. There are two breakfast restaurants in the hotel: one for the Western guests and one for the Japanese guests, and Hiro said the western side fills quickly. No problem for me, because I’m looking forward to having congee with pickled veggies on the Japanese side. I’m in Japan…why would I eat a western breakfast that I can have any day of the week, when I can sample Japanese cuisine?

Ramen – our first meal in Japan

Japan

Saturday, we will be off on our long-awaited journey to Japan. The trip was cancelled many times because of Covid, so we are excited that we will finally be able to see this beautiful country. We’re hoping the cherry blossoms will still be in bloom, as they are blossoming a little earlier this year than usual. (Although, seeing the pink and white petals carpeting the lawns will still be a beautiful sight I’m sure.)

There will be 15 folks on this Overseas Adventure Tour, hailing from California, Florida, New Mexico, the state of Washington, and of course, we will be representing Pennsylvania. The itinerary looks amazing – lunching with sumo wrestlers, sushi making with Japanese ladies, learning how to play the taiko drums, visiting the Ashigara Village to learn the customs and traditions of the residents – and that’s just a sampling of what lies ahead.

The flight will be non-stop and take about 14 hours, and we will arrive in Tokyo the next day at about 1:30 in the afternoon. The plan is to go to our hotel, meet our guide Hiro and our fellow travelers, and then take a walk around the area before we find a place for our first Japanese dinner.

We have been in contact with Hiro – we zoomed with him yesterday for the first time – and it was a delightful encounter. He reminded us that we had to complete the questions on Japan Web, to facilitate our entry into the country. Japan Web is a web service that people entering Japan can use for Immigration and Customs procedures in order to enter/return to Japan. Hiro said that having this information available before our arrival will eliminate waiting in customs for over an hour or more. They require proof of at least three vaccinations for Covid that must be shown on photos of our Vax cards, that we uploaded to the site. They also require documentation as to where we would be staying, how long we plan on being in the country, passport info, as well as a myriad of other travel information. Hopefully we filled everything out correctly, so we can breeze through customs.

I’m hoping to post every day, as long as the internet cooperates. Hope you join us for our adventure!

さようなら 
(Sayōnara)

Antarctica ~ Home Again

Please scroll down to find the beginning of the trip.

We left our beautiful cruise ship early in the morning, and boarded a bus to take us to the airport for our flight to Buenos Aires. Our carry-on luggage was stowed in the lower part of the bus, we found our seats, buckled up, and relaxed. And then…we all had to get off. They inadvertently put us on the wrong bus. So we got our luggage back and walked over to another bus. Our carry-on luggage was stowed in the lower part of the new bus, we found our seats, buckled up, and relaxed. Until…the agent called Allan’s and my names, along with another lady’s, and said that we were again on the wrong bus.

We boarded a third bus, our carry-on luggage was stowed in the lower part of the bus, we found our seats, buckled up, and tentatively relaxed, and finally…no more playing musical buses; we arrived at the Ushuaia airport. However, once there, we were told that because many flights were delayed coming into Buenos Aires, our flight going from Buenos Aires to Santiago, might not happen, since there might not be enough planes. Yikes…if that happened, we’d miss all our connecting flights.

Buenos Aires was featuring 90+ degree weather, and we had to walk outside in the blazing heat, dragging our luggage, from one terminal to the next. We staggered into the departure terminal, sweat running down our necks, and were assigned a Viking agent to help us find a flight that we could take, since our original flight was no longer available. The agent was on the phone with Viking for quite some time, and we were melting from the heat. The airport wasn’t air conditioned very well.

Suddenly…the agent got excited and said, “I found a flight leaving actually NOW! Take the stairs, go through security, and make that flight!” We flew up two flights of stairs, dragging our carry-on and knapsacks, only to be asked by the security agent after she checked our passports…”Where are your boarding passes?” We said we don’t have them. Even though we are quite cute and often engage in scintillating conversation, she of course would not let us through…but suddenly, another agent who had hiked up the stairs after us, waved our boarding passes in the air and passed them over to us. They had printed boarding passes immediately for us when they knew we’d make the flight.

We ran to the plane, because they were holding it for us, but the folks who had already boarded, were not happy campers waiting for us to arrive. It was terribly hot on the tarmac, and they just wanted to get in the air. They didn’t think we were cute, and they weren’t in the mood for scintillating conversation.

We arrived in Santiago and then had to find our flight to Atlanta. All was going well, until we went again through security. We had to put our thumb on the pad for the fingerprint recognition. I think the agent thought I was affiliated with the mafia and had my fingerprints removed at some point, because my fingerprint would not process. She held my thumb down, she rubbed alcohol on it, she tried another finger, she tried my other hand, and it just didn’t work. I tried some scintillating conversation, but she didn’t buy it. (Note: Most security agents are NOT in the mood for frivolity.) She sent us to another agent and that agent had the same trouble, but finally…my thumbprint showed up and we were allowed on the plane.

The rest of the journey went well, and we are now back home safe and sound.

I know you all have been waiting for the answers to the questions I posed before we embarked on our journey, so here they are:

  1. The Drake Passage was not the lake, but it wasn’t the shake either.
  2. My seasickness patch worked great!
  3. We saw the green buttons in the submarine, but the pilot neglected to mention anything about them. Fortunately, he did not lose consciousness during the dive.
  4. I never lost my phone or camera in the water, so I don’t know if they would have kept afloat.
  5. From the smell and from everything we saw on the ground, I’d say penguins poop probably every minute. LOL!
  6. Capilene long johns keep you toasty warm.
  7. No one mentioned any vineyards, and we didn’t see any, but we had enough wine on the ship to make up for not visiting an Antarctic winery.
  8. The Drake was about the same going as coming back.
  9. The rocks at one shore were extremely slippery, but my orthopedist will not have to perform any heroic measures on me, as I made it to shore without breaking my hip.
  10. The answer to “is wombat poop really square” will have to be answered on a voyage to a different continent.

I hope you all enjoyed my journey. Please keep checking into the blog, as I will be posting in Pookie’s Posts…With a Touch of Humor as often as I can, and I will be posting in late March in Irene and Allan’s Travel Adventures when we journey to Japan.

See ya!

Ushuaia
Our Voyage

Antarctica ~ Cape Horn

Cape Horn is located in Chile’s Tierra del Fuego archipelago. It is off the tip of South America where the Pacific and Atlantic oceans meet. There is an albatross-shaped monument there, that memorializes the seafarers who lost their lives trying to round the Horn. Not only do two oceans converge, but the high winds also make the waters treacherous. Our crossing was very windy, but the waters were pretty calm, and it was exciting to go around the Horn, which is apparently on many travelers’ bucket lists.
Once again, the day has dawned sunny, with blue skies. Our last day on the ship will be spent relaxing and visiting with our new friends throughout the day. We have been so lucky on this voyage – great weather, great Drake passage, (considering how bad it could have been), Cape Horn not too bad, and meeting wonderful people who we will remain in contact with and perhaps travel with in the future.

We attended two lectures this afternoon and then met our friends for drinks and dinner. We said goodbye to all the wonderful crew that we’ve met this week, who made our expedition cruise the amazing one it was. And then we said goodbye and safe travels to our new friends. We are hopefully planning to travel with them again.

Antarctica ~ The Drake Passage Again

“And the purpose of life, after all, is to live it, to taste experience to the utmost, to reach out eagerly and without fear for newer and richer experience.” Eleanor Roosevelt

That pretty much sums up my thoughts on the Drake. Taste the experience to the limit, reach out and eagerly embrace it to the fullest, and do it all without fear!

Easier said than done! We didn’t have a choice as to whether or not we’d traverse the Drake for the second time, tasting and embracing it so to speak, so it did become the intrepid journey that we bravely faced to the utmost. Fortunately, the ride wasn’t exactly the Drake Shake, but neither was it the Drake Lake. It was something in-between, with fairly rough waters and much rocking of our ship. Our seasickness patches worked wonders, (the person that invented them should be sainted), and we were able to watch the rolling waves break into the side of the ship from the comfort of our cabin. Some of those waves, I must admit, were pretty formidable. (Which is code for “terrifying”.)

And sadly, because of the waves, the polar plunge that was scheduled for 10 am, had to be postponed till tomorrow. Allan and I of course, were very disappointed. (Good Lord…NOT! That experience would have ranked right up there with root canal for us, so that’s a gigantic – Never in a million years!!!)

Room service came with our breakfast, which was fabulous, as we didn’t have to careen through the halls from side to side to get to the restaurant.

We eventually did venture to the upper deck, so we could read for awhile. Yikes!!! The upper deck was really rocking and rolling. It gave us roller coaster thrills by the minute, as well as the realization of what it must be like to ride a mechanical bull, but we were able to endure whatever the sea belched our way. Again, thank you scopolamine!

It is another bright and sunny day. We are so lucky, as having so many days rain-free during this cruise has not been experienced in a very long time.

They were handing out Margaritas when we went in for lunch. They were delicious and one of our favorite waiters offered me a second one, which I graciously accepted. I figured, everyone is trying to stay upright as they walk given the waves, so if I’m a little tipsy, no one will be the wiser.

By afternoon, the waves got even fiercer and walking around was a bit tricky. We made our way to the Aula Theater for the Captain’s farewell address, walking carefully thru the hallways.

The farewell was wonderful, as all of the crew were introduced, primarily the ones we never see, like those who do the laundry and the dishwashing. The crew here – amazing. Always happy, helpful, and fun to be with. We will miss them. They played Tina Turner’s Simply the Best as the crew went up on the stage. And they are!

We had drinks with friends and then off to dinner. I had delicious lamb chops and finished the meal with a limoncello. Tomorrow is our last day on our polar adventure.

The swells weren’t too bad
Breakfast was delivered
Clear skies…but rough waters
Getting a tad rougher
Our amazing crew

Antarctica ~ Elephant Island

Before I talk about our day, I did want to mention that the artwork around the Octantis is absolutely beautiful and very educational. You could spend a day looking at the collections of artifacts, photographs, paintings, and textiles that are featured on every deck. There are also many TVs around, featuring tidbits of info as well as quotes by famous people. I love reading the quotes. One quote I can relate to, is by Susan Sontag…”I haven’t been everywhere, but it’s on my list.”

We are at Elephant Island and the first thing we noticed – there’s no snow! We had a nice morning and after lunch we went for a walk around the decks. Another beautifully sunny day, with mild temps.

The mild temps lasted, but the sun went in just as we were ready to embark on our final zodiac ride to the shore. The rides were postponed by a half hour as the tides were changing and the waters were quite rough.

We made our way down to the launching deck, and an announcement came over the loud speakers that they were searching for another place to embark onto the shore because of the waters. So after a 20 minute wait, we finally made our way to the zodiac, which was bouncing up and down in the water from the rough sea.

This was by far the most terrifying zodiac ride ever. The waves were high and the zodiac kept going up and down as well as to and fro. Almost all of us slid into the zodiac like beached whales and then carefully made our way to our seats. The ride to the shore was also scary… Water spraying on us, as we bounced up and down the whole way, holding onto the ropes for dear life. One of our friends on the zodiac after us was injured as he got on, sliding into the stepstool and had to go to medical. 😳

When we arrived at the shore, we had to disembark in calf height water and walk over extremely slippery rocks. Thankfully, there were many guides extending hands, clutching us as we walked to shore.

But it was worth it. Seeing the fur seals, the penguins, and the elephant seals was amazing. We walked the beach and then waited for our return zodiac. While walking the beach, we were cautioned to be careful where we stepped, so we did not step on any of the green vegetation that was all around.

Before we boarded our return zodiac, we had to rub the bottom of our boots back and forth in the sand and then rinse them in the water. Even doing that, some of us still had seaweed attached to our boots. The bottoms of our snow pants were soaked, but our socks remained dry.

Thankfully, the waters had calmed a bit and the ride back wasn’t as bad. Halfway to our ship, however, we were stopped by another zodiac, and we thought there was something wrong as we pulled alongside. They tied both zodiacs together, and then passed out champagne glasses so we could toast to our very last zodiac ride in Antarctica. Such a wonderful surprise.

We had a bit of difficulty again, going from the zodiac to the ship, but all was okay and we quickly changed and met our friends for a quick drink and then on to dinner.

The maitre d’ at dinner told us the Drake tonight and tomorrow will probably have waves about 4 meters high…rougher than our first crossing, but we are prepared. Green apples, ginger ale, crackers, seasickness patches, and ginger chews. We were also told to put our water jugs and glasses in the wastecan, so they don’t roll off the countertops.

We ordered room service for breakfast for tomorrow, just in case it’s too risky to traverse the halls to get to the restaurant.

As Bette Davis once said…”Hang on tight. It’s going to be a bumpy night!”

Champagne toast
Our ship in the distance
The seals are sleeping
March of the penguins

Antarctica ~ Mikkelsen Harbor – D’Hainaut Island

During the night, we had a few hours of rough seas. We were speaking with a crew member this evening, who told us that in the kitchen last night, there was a disaster. Caramel fell off a shelf and spread all over the floor. What a mess! He also told us that back in December, the Drake passage was so bad that glassware and plates tumbled off of tables and shelves throughout the ship, and broke in smithereens. Fingers crossed we won’t experience that on our way home.

This morning I had some congee for breakfast. It had chicken and sliced ginger in it, and it was delicious. I first found out about congee when I was in China. I didn’t know what it was, and thought it was just a porridge like oatmeal. And so, I added some yogurt to it, much to my friend Chi’s horror. He showed me the proper way to enjoy congee – by adding some pickled delicacies. Chi, if you are reading my blog, I did you proud by not adding any dairy products to the congee and it was delicious!

D’Hainaut Island is a tiny rock island in Mikkelsen Harbor. It was first discovered around 1910. The island was used extensively for whaling, and there is also a small historic refuge there that was built originally by the Argentine Navy in the 1950s, then again in the 1970s, and most recently in 2017. However, the refuge can’t be entered except in emergencies.

There is also plenty of evidence of the whaling industry on the island. Whale bones are scattered all over and you can find the wrecks of several boats as well. There is a huge Gentoo penguin colony there, and we also saw many fur seals basking in the sun.
The snow was turning to slush with the sun, so climbing the mountain was very easy. We arrived at the rookery and saw some baby chicks with their parents standing guard. Some of the penguins have begun their molting. Penguins are very noisy and most of their bleating is to either search for their mate, or to search for their chicks.

It was an amazing excursion and we were so excited to see so much wildlife in one spot.

When we were ready to board the zodiac for the cruise back to the ship, we had to walk in the water and shuffle our feet back and forth on the rocks. Then, they took a scrub brush and scrubbed our boots to get all of the mud and penguin poop off. Once back onboard our ship, we walked thru the disinfecting solution while brushes scrubbed our boots again.

And what a day!!! Sunny, mild, and no wind. The crew keeps saying we brought the most wonderful weather with us, the likes of which has not been seen with recent voyages.

We’ve learned so much about icebergs over the past few days, and if you are interested in learning about them as well, I refer you to the website Oceanside Expeditions. It has an in-depth and very interesting discussion about Antarctic icebergs.

We have become friends with many of the crew and they know us by name and always stop to talk with us. Allan overheard one passenger say, after some crew members chatted with us, “How do those two know so many crew members??” Easy! We enjoy speaking with them and learning their background and where they come from.

We met old friends and new friends for a pre-dinner cocktail, and then we all went to dinner together. So much fun! Lots of laughs! And we were entertained by a pod of whales that swam along with our ship.

Dinner with our friends
rookery
The scenery is so beautiful
Love this photo. Serenity.
Fur seals
Whale bones
Sunset. One of the crew said they haven’t seen a sunset in three months. How lucky we are!!!

Antarctica ~ Enterprise Island

Yesterday, we thought we’d be able to visit the most remote post office in the world, where four women deliver mail and count penguins here in Antarctica. They beat out 6,000 applicants for the job. But, alas, we were at a different spot on the island, and didn’t get to see it. Viking did, however, give us a postcard with the Antarctic stamp on it, that we could have mailed from the post office, but we decided to keep it instead.

This morning, the science team aboard our ship, launched a weather balloon. Viking has a partnership with NOAA, and the US national weather service has sanctioned an official launch station on Viking expedition ships, making them the world’s first civilian ships to be so equipped. The weather balloons are made of biodegradable latex and are filled with helium. The balloons have a small transmitter and sensor unit attached, which will broadcast wind, temperature, and pressure data down to the ship every second. Pretty amazing.

We are now getting the hang of donning our arctic gear without any problems. My advice however is, don’t leave it till the last minute, because even when you become proficient, it still takes quite awhile to get everything on. It must be done in steps: 1. Go to the bathroom first 2. Then put the sock liners and heavy socks on 3. Now, put on the Capilene long johns 4. Next, the fleece lined pants and tops, 5. (and this step is very important), the snow pants and THEN, 6. the heavy snow boots. Do not try to put the boots on first, thinking, because of the zipper and snaps on the snow pants that allows a wide opening at the bottom, you can pull the pants over the boots. You can’t.
Then comes 7. the insulating inner coat layer which goes under 8. the red outer jacket.
Getting the 9. life jacket on was another learning experience. You first lay it down on the bed with the labels facing down, and then you put it on like a vest, carefully pulling the other side over your other shoulder. The life jacket gets belted around your waist and then another strap gets anchored between your legs. (Men…do NOT pull that strap too tightly!) Finally, don the 10. glove liners, 11. gloves, 12. woolen hat, and 13. ski goggles or sunglasses and finally Ta-dah…you’re on your way.
Hopefully, you have remembered step 1 before you began, because otherwise, good luck!
After the excursions, you have to take off the gear pretty much the opposite of how you put them on. Important note: take off the boots first (which actually is not an easy feat …no pun intended), because the snow pants will never go over them and it just makes for a very comical situation as you are all tangled up with the pants around your knees and stuck halfway over the boots. Trust me on this.

Many of the icebergs that float by are individual works of art, sculpted by the wind and the elements, and featuring shades of blue embedded in their crevices or along their walls. I have taken many photos of these beauties, and when I get home, I will have Shutterfly arrange them in a frame for a wall hanging.

On today’s zodiac cruise, the snow on the mountains looked like agate with the iron deposits and the algae. Breathtaking!

Whaling was a popular activity back in the late 1800’s and early 1900’s, and when the whales were harpooned and brought onboard, every part of the whale was used – the oil and the blubber primarily.

In 1915, one whaling mission on a ship called the Governoren ended, and the crew in celebration, had a party below deck. Historians have surmised that the party had to be held below, because the deck was filled with whales in various stages of processing and butchering. The crew knew they’d soon be on their way home, hence the celebration. Unfortunately, the dancing and drinking got a bit out of hand, and someone knocked over an oil lantern. By this time, the ship was filled with thousands of gallons of whale oil, ready to be hauled back to Norway. That oil served to ignite a huge fire causing it to get out of control quickly. The captain set the ship aground and all the 85 crew members escaped without injury. They were later rescued by another whaling ship.
We were able to view this shipwreck as well as some water boats that were used to bring fresh water to the whaling boats.

We have had amazing weather. No rain, sunny skies, and mild temps for the most part. The crew keeps saying how lucky we are, since the last voyage had nothing but rain. We truly are blessed.
A fellow passenger was able to snap a picture of a whale that came fairly close to his zodiac. Wowser!!!

This afternoon we plan on attending a seminar on plankton, and tonight, dinner with friends, followed by story-time in The Hide.

The Governoren
The Governoren