03 Nov 2016

Leavin’ on a jet plane

Newark Airport

Well…our bags are packed and we are ready to go! We are off for our Danube river adventure! The weather will be chilly and there might even be some snow…which should be a beautiful sight to see in the countries that we are visiting. But alas, because of boots and heavier winter clothing, i could not invoke my usual ‘carry-on luggage only’ rule. We just couldn’t make the 18 lb. limit for carry-on bags. So…for the first time in years…we are checking a bag! I’m giddy with all the room I now have. I even packed a travel steamer!! Will the fun never end?????

Anyway…the Danube River, Napoleon once said, is the “Queen of Europe’s Rivers”. It measures 1,775 miles long, is 1 mile wide in parts and flows past 10 countries. We will be visiting three of them…Germany, Austria, and Hungary. We’ll be cruising on one of Viking’s longships, the Gullveig. 

We have already been advised by Viking that in Nuremberg, Germany, due to the low water levels, we might be boarding Viking’s Aegir, another longship. Then somewhere along the way, we will change to the Gullveig. This is a common occurrence with river travel and we won’t have to do anything except repack our bags. The porters do all the rest.

So stay tuned and check into read about our adventures. We hope to give you an armchair tour of our travels and take you along for the cruise. First stop…Nuremberg! Auf Wiedersehen!

04 Nov 2016

First day onboard

Frankfurt Airport (FRA)

While waiting for our flight we met another couple who are also going on the cruise. We chatted for awhile. They are from the Poconos area of PA. They weren’t on our flight but we will meet up with them on the ship.

Our 747 had a three-four-three seat configuration and we were in the middle four seats. Yikes!!! Very, very cramped. But as luck would have it, unbelievably, the people in the other two seats never showed up.

Anyway, a lady across the aisle was coveting the seats since she was in a threesome row, but I quickly jumped over when I heard that everyone was on board. She gave me a dirty look…but hey you snooze you lose. it was great to spread out for the six plus hour flight with four seats all to ourselves.

It’s amazing to me what the airlines let on board for carry-on even though they say the size and weight limits are strictly enforced. People show up with carryons the equivalent of grand pianos and they waltz on and start shoving the oversized items into the overhead bins. It’s quite entertaining.

We arrived at our ship The Aegir after a thirty minute drive. The ship is quite lovely with large glass windows in the veranda dining room where we had lunch. There is also a main dining room which is also well appointed. Our room is small but it does have a lot of space for putting everything we brought away. With the suitcases under the bed we have plenty of room.

After lunch a number of us went into town. Our bus driver took us along the autobahn and on the way our guide told us sone of Nuremberg’s history.

Nuremberg was almost devastated during World War II. It was rebuilt after the war and now has a population of over 500,000. It is renown for its sausages, beer, gingerbread, and toys.

One interesting fact about the city is that two brothers years ago started the shoe company Adidas. But they had a falling out and the one brother became estranged from the other and started manufacturing sneakers under the name Puma. The families are still feuding to this day.

We arrived at the town square and walked around . It’s a huge place with many stores that are popular in the states. Then of course we had to try some German pretzels; one with bacon that was just like prosciutto and another with chives. Stopped in for a cup of cappuccino as well. Then we walked to a magnificent church…St Lorentz of Nuremberg. Construction started in 1250 and finished in 1477. Sadly, it was badly damaged during WW II and was later restored. It is now Evangelical Lutheran. I lit a votive candle and placed it in the sand circle at the back of the church.

We’ve met three really nice couples and enjoyed dinner with them. Now it’s off to bed.

05 Nov 2016

12:30 pm

Touring Nuremberg

Today is overcast but the rain held off as we went into Nuremberg for the city tour which highlighted much of old Nuremberg and also some of the buildings from WW II and the Nazi regime.

Nuremberg in the Middle Ages was as popular as London and New York City is in our world today. Since Nuremberg is almost in the center of Germany and has excellent transportation system to allow trade and commerce from other countries into it, it remains one of Germany’s most popular cities. Many innovative ideas got their birth in Nuremberg. The first globe of the world was created in Nuremberg in 1493 depicting three continents and the pocket watch was invented here as well.

Hitler chose Nuremberg so his maniacal powers of speech could be fully deployed. Sadly, since WW I had shaken Germany to its core, Hitler’s promises of a new Germany was balm to the German people. He was able to rally thousands at once to listen to his fanatical tirades. We saw the Zeppelin field where many rallies were held, the hotel where Hitler would stand on the balcony addressing the throngs and saw where the Nuremberg trials were held.

We took a walking tour through the old town seeing the Nuremberg castle. Walking up to the castle itself was a feat since it was all uphill and winding cobblestones. We had a beautiful view of the old town below where one of the buildings from the Middle Ages still stands despite the devastation to the surrounding buildings from WW II.

Continuing into town, we saw the beautiful Church of Our Lady where at noon everyday, the figures atop come to life to honor King. Karl IV. We were fortunate to witness it first hand.

We had lunch with new friends at a quaint German restaurant where we dined on 3 bratwurst in a bun with a nice glass of beer. Pretzels and mustard completed the meal. Delicious!

A speaker came aboard and talked about the history of Bavaria and tonight we will enjoy dinner and get a much needed sleep afterwards as we are still a little jet lagged.

06 Nov 2016

Regensburg, Germany

From the moment you arrive in Regensburg and the Gothic twin spires of St. Peter’s magnificent cathedral greet you, making lacy silhouettes against the sky, you know you are in a beautiful German city. The cathedral has been rebuilt numerous times since its first construction around 700 and the carved statues that adorn the outside of the cathedral are amazing. We were actually able to go inside this beautiful cathedral and see the beautiful architecture and hear the powerful organ, since a Sunday mass was in progress, making the experience awe inspiring indeed.

From the cathedral we went onto the old stone bridge…a 12th century edifice crossing the Danube. For more than 800 years it was the only crossing across the river. After WW II, at the end of the war, the Nazis blew up a part of the bridge as they left the city. The bridge has been restored numerous times since then and is in the process of being restored today.

We also took an extended tour of the Jewish area. The earliest references to Jews in Regensburg goes back to the 11th century and the Jewish settlement in Regensburg is one of the oldest Jewish settlements in Bavaria on record. The Christians were forbidden to lend money so the Jewish people did all the money lending and in 1452 a duke wanted all Jews expelled from the area. The city council did not accede to this, but instead made all Jews wear an arm badge. The Jews were persecuted and a number of untrue accusations were made against them. Emperor Maximilian shielded the Jews from persecution but immediately after his death in 1519, Jews were given four days in which to leave the city. They had to leave all of their belongings behind and their homes were torched and destroyed as well as their synagogue and their cemeteries. More than 4000 gravestones were destroyed and even more horrifically, used in the construction of new buildings. We saw a building from that time and the gravestone still stands embedded in the stone. So as never to forget that horrific event, the foundation where the synagogue stood is now memorialized with a structure that reproduces the layout of the original building. The artist Dani Karavan made a place for all to sit and reflect, relax and ponder. He called it Place for Thought. Little ones were running around and playing there today during our tour.

In 1995 the city of Regensburg was digging up the roads in order to install lighting for the Christmas market, so imagine their amazement when the found the ruins of the city’s medieval Jewish quarter. Unfortunately it was closed today so we were not able to go down underneath the roads to explore it.

We were getting hungry, and at the foot of the historic bridge that crosses the Danube, is an historic restaurant called Historiche Wurstkuche…the oldest sausage kitchen in Europe. It is a 12 century tavern that sells beer and the most delicious sausages on a bed of sauerkraut. We had a delicious repast there with our friends Bernadette and Gaetano and I can now honestly say, I am sausauged out!! (until tomorrow when we arrive in Passau!!!!! 

Throughout the city, there are plaques in the ground called stumbling blocks. Each block is a brass plate inscribed with the name, birth date and death date of victims of the nazi extermination.

07 Nov 2016

Passau, Germany

Passau is at the confluence of three rivers…the Danube, Inn, and the Ilz. Passau is another quaint city, however our first stop was not quaint but rather magnificent. St Stephen’s Cathedral is truly a masterpiece of Italian baroque, built by Italian architect Carlo Lurago. With 17,774 pipes, the organ at St. Stephen’s was once the largest pipe organ in the world. (The largest today is the Boardwalk Hall Auditorium Organ in Atlantic City). St Stephen’s organ is really several separate organs all accessible from one or more consoles. Our guide told us there are five organs en total with one organ actually in the ceiling.

The town is dominated by the Veste Oberhaus and the former fortress of the Bishop. We enjoyed walking around the city and then returned to the ship for lunch. Tonight we are off to Krems.

Last night we were entertained by some German musicians and had a German feast for dinner. Lots of sausages, dumplings, sauerkraut, roast pig and veal were the fare along with streusel and of course the famous Black Forest cake   

08 Nov 2016

Krems, Vienna

Today dawned sunny and comfortably warm as we entered Austria and cruised along the beautiful and picturesque Wachau Valley on the Danube, designated a UNESCO World Heritage area. We passed vineyards, rolling hills and groves of apricot trees and the foliage along the way was colorful against the gorgeous blue sky. Truly a sight to behold. We were able to view the castle where Richard the Lionhearted was imprisoned and we saw quaint villages with colorful houses tucked into the hillsides.

After lunch we took a ride to the 900 year old Gottweig Abbey, a monastery and palace rolled into one, where Benedictine monks still work and worship. The abbey overlooks the beautiful Wachau Valley and was founded in 1083. The monastery burned down in 1718 for a second time, but was rebuilt on an even grander scale than ever before. Rooms can be found in the living quarters that are suited for royalty and the fresco decorating the imperial staircase is considered a masterpiece in the Baroque style.

The abbey is still an active church where monks gather to pray during the day and where visitors are welcome. The abbey has a library of 130,000 books and documents, all of which survived WW II. The monastery offers bed and breakfast type accommodations for guests from May to October and offers these guests an opportunity to pray with the monks. The monastery owns vineyards that produce fine wines under the direction of Fritz Miesbauer and we had the opportunity to sample some of them.

It was a fabulous day with perfect weather to appreciate the uniqueness of this beautiful area.

The chalk numbers and letters on doors throughout the city are put on by acolytes as they go around at Christmas time collecting money for the poor. The numbers depict the year and the letters C, M, and B stand for the three wise men… Caspar, Melchoir and Balthasar. The inscription is thought to bestow blessings on the home and its inhabitants all through the year.

Pics of Gottweig monastery  and Abbey church and our ship as the sun sets.

09 Nov 2016

Vienna, Austria

Vienna! What a beautiful city. And to make our touring even more perfect…the sun shone all day and we were treated to mild temperatures. We took a bus around town and saw the amazing architecture prevalent throughout the town. Christmas trees and lights were being set up for the Christmas mart that will open on Saturday and because of that, the crowds were non-existent since everyone arrives on Saturday.

We visited St Stephen’s cathedral – a beautiful church in the heart of the city. The tour guides tell us that the code for the churches and cathedrals throughout Europe is…ABC…Another Beautiful Church and as usual, this one did not disappoint. It was consecrated in 1147 and is the mother church of the Roman archdiocese in Vienna. The multi tiled roof on the cathedral is absolutely beautiful.

Our PA friends and Allan and I went off to do some shopping. I was able to purchase some Mozart candies…chocolate surrounded by marzipan…and from there we went to a cafe and had cappucino and delicious Viennese pastries. While enjoying our coffee and chatting, we suddenly realized…our tour bus had already left without us!!!! We were having such a good time we didn’t keep track of the time. Well…no worries. We decided to stay and tour the Sisi Museum…the imperial apartments and the silver collection of Elisabeth, the Empress of Austria. It was a fantastic exhibition depicting the china, silver and personal items that were a part of daily life in the palace. We also were able to enter the apartments of the royal family. Sisi was a beloved and beautiful, empress who suffered from depression. One of her daughters died in infancy and her son committed suicide. Sisi was assassinated when she was 60 years old. Her life has been compared to princess Diana…the only difference being that Sisi was adored and cherished by her husband Franz Joseph of Austria. His words upon her death; “You cannot imagine how I loved this woman”.

We navigated the Viennese subway system successfully and returned to the boat. Then allan and I went to a Heurigen tavern…meaning a tavern that serves the year’s new wine from the local vineyards. We sampled five wines…all throughout the evening along with Viennese fare. It was a wonderful evening…with violinist and accordionist playing folk songs, old favorites, new favorites and everything in between. The violinist played Santa Lucia and I sang along with him in Italian and everyone cheered and clapped and said I did a great job. (But that was probably the wine speaking LOL!!!!).

We are back on our ship listening to the piano player and having a drambuie. Life is good!!

  10 Nov 2016

Vienna, Austria

Waltzes, strudel, Mozart…just a glimpse of Vienna! It is a city with buildings both historic and modern standing side by side. Our day once again dawned sunny and warm and off we went to the Schonbrunn Palace, the former Imperial summer residence. The palace has over one thousand rooms and has housed successive monarchs of the Habsburg monarchy.

The palace was remodeled by Maria Theresa who received the palace as a wedding gift. Franz Joseph, the longest reigning emperor in Austria’s history, was born at the palace and spent most of his life there and Empress Elizabeth, known as Sisi, was fond of strolling through the magnificent palace gardens. The gardens of course were not in bloom in November, but one could imagine the grandeur that the residents must have enjoyed. We were able to visit twenty rooms, many of which had original oil portraits of the Monarchs and also the original wall paper and furniture.

After our palace tour, we went off on our own, walking through the streets in search of a place to eat. We found a restaurant and enjoyed a delicious Thai lunch with sushi and the waitress even gave us complimentary spring rolls. After we dined, she brought coconut milk with tapioca to end our meal and then we did some shopping and took the subway back to the pier. We are getting very good at navigating the underground system, but tonight we are sailing to Esztergom so our Viennese subway prowess will have to be saved until we return perhaps again to this beautiful city.

11 Nov 2016

Dunaalmas, Hungary

We are so lucky with the weather on this trip. Once again, the cold weather that we feared was not in evidence and we went off to tour Dunaalmas, Hungary where we had a lesson in langos and strudel making. When we walked in we were treated to a glass of Palinka a traditional fruit brandy. It really helped to take the chill off as we downed the glass in one gulp, Hungarian style.

I volunteered to roll the dough for langos which is similar to pita and then was able to enjoy it with garlic butter after it was baked. Allan and I also learned the fine technique of strudel making…and Allan did a commendable job stretching the dough paper thin. We enjoyed some wine and freshly baked apple and cheese strudel before heading off to Esztergom. Esztergom is the seat of the Hungarian Catholic Church and was the birthplace of the first Hungarian king, St. Stephen, as well as the capital of Hungary until the 13th century. Hungary was not a free country for centuries…being ruled by Mongolians, Turks, the Hapsburgs, Nazis, and Russians.

We stopped to visit the Basilica of the Blessed Virgin Mary, the mother church of the archdiocese of Esztergom. The present church was built on the foundation of several other churches…the first being built between 1001-1010.

On the way back to the ship our guide told us some interesting information about how the holidays are celebrated in Hungary. Easter Monday is celebrated by the women painting Easter eggs and giving them to the men folk. The menfolk in return “sprinkle” the women with water (sometimes ice water in buckets) and sometimes with perfume. This custom is to ensure the ladies stay young until next year. The boys say a little poem first before the sprinkle their lady…the last line asking “may I sprinkle you?” Usually…the girl says yes! Baskets are filled with chocolate bunnies and chocolate eggs and are hidden in the house or garden for little ones to find.

The Christmas holiday is celebrated first on December 6 when children polish their shoes and boots and put them in the window so St. Nicholas can come and fill them with candies and chocolates. On December 24, the Christmas tree is decorated and on the 25th a dinner replete with fish soup made mostly from trout and lots of paprika to give it a red color. Stuffed cabbage is also eaten and the children are given sweets and toys from baby Jesus.

New Years is another celebration. Everyone eats lentils to become rich and roast baby pork for good luck.

We returned back to the ship and Allan and I went on a tour of the wheelhouse on the ship and listened to the captain’s presentation of the different properties of our ship, the Aegir.

And then…one of the highlights of our trip; the opportunity to sail into Budapest at night and witness the stately parliament building lit up and its lights twinkling and reflecting on the Danube. We were so lucky to have the chance to see this and we won’t soon forget the magnificence of Buda and Pest on either side of the Danube as we sailed under bridges and took in the beauty of each shore. With the lights illuminating the night, it certainly was a magnificent sight.

Our friends and Allan and I decided to forego the captains dinner and make our way into Pest because the Christmas market opened tonight. Will tell you all about it tomorrow, after we go to sleep, with the memories of our first glimpses of Hungary sprinkled in our dreams.

12 Nov 2016

Budapest

Danube River Cruise

As promised, I will tell you about the Christmas market in Pest that Allan and I along with our friends Bernadette and Gaetano walked to last night. We found our way through the streets and entered the market, greeted by a beautifully decorated Christmas tree. The stalls were filled with hand crafted items from scarfs and hand hewn wooden bowls to candles and jewelry and so much more. Bernadette spotted the paprika that I had been searching for so I was happy to be able to finally purchase it. Hungary has the forint as currency so converting from euros into forints was a little challenging and I think the merchants made a little extra cash … compliments of us.

There was a band playing rock music which added to the festive atmosphere and people were walking around smiling and happy to kick off the season. In almost every row you could find a stall with gingerbread. The bakers in Hungary are so talented, decorating everything with meticulous care. The gingerbread cookies were intricately decorated in colored sugar icings…much too beautiful to eat.

We had dinner at the food mart in the middle of the market which was offering pork knuckles, goulash and many other local delicacies. I opted for the goulash in a bread bowl. Delicious!!

This morning we took a bus tour of Buda and Pest and saw some interesting sights. Today was rainy but fortunately not cold so even though we were under umbrellas it was comfortable Our guide was funny and informative and made the ride very interesting.

We stopped at the Church of Mathias which was originally built in Romanesque style in 1015, although no archaeological remains exist. The current building was constructed in Gothic style in the second half of the 14th century and was extensively restored in the late 19th century. We were fortunate to hear a men’s choir sing during our visit.

We had cappuccino and espresso with decadent desserts and then returned to the ship in time for lunch.

Our afternoon shore excursion was a trip to the Széchenyi Medicinal Bath, the largest medicinal bath in Europe. The spa is huge with indoor pools and outdoor pools. We were given a “watch” that you scan and it tells you your cabin number where you can change into your bathing suit and then you scan your “watch” and your cabin opens.

The pools were very crowded but we found little niches within them to enjoy the warmth the thermal baths offered. We thought it was too chilly to partake in the outdoor bath but as we were leaving Gaetano and I decided to brace it and we took the plunge. It was actually quite lovely with the warmth of the bath and the coolness of the air.

The Shoes Memorial on the Danube River

One of the more poignant moments on our trip was seeing The Shoes on the Danube, a memorial to the Budapest Jews who were shot by Arrow Cross militiamen between 1944 and 1945. The victims were lined up and shot into the Danube River. They had to take their shoes off, since shoes were valuable belongings at the time. It contains 60 pairs of iron shoes, forming a row along the Danube. Each pair of shoes was modeled after an original 1940’s pair.

13 Nov 2016

Farewell Danube River

Well our trip was wonderful but we are ready to board our plane for our return to home. Hope you all enjoyed traveling with us. Bye Danube river. You are a beautiful river and we are so glad we had the opportunity to sail your waters and see your magnificent shores. But now we are ready to waltz home with the memories of our trip in our hearts.