Accommodations:. Costaustralis Hotel

After breakfast we had our very last hike in beautiful Patagonia. The day dawned sunny and I was able to catch the sunrise as it swept across the mountain tops, painting then a gorgeous shade of pink.

We went on a pretty amazing hike with the mountains in the background. It was up steep inclines over rocks buried in the narrow path, thick roots and thorny bushes, and then we hiked down again. When we got to the top, the wind was howling and once again, I could hardly keep myself from blowing over. Those Patagonia winds are fierce.

But the views were spectacular and it was an invigorating morning and worth the effort.

We had a box lunch on the bus as we made our way to a ranch, to horseback ride and enjoy a lamb BBQ dinner.

En route, we watched a gaucho and his dogs round up his sheep to get them into another grazing field. It was really cool to see a real live gaucho doing what they do best.

We arrived at the Pingo Salvaje Ranch, which reminded everyone of the show Yellowstone! The gauchos and gauchas greeted us on horseback waving welcome flags and we immediately went with them to be fitted for our riding helmets.

We were divided into groups… Those who could ride a horse and those who were newbies. Even though Allan and I have been on horses before, we decided to go with the newbie group.

My horse was called Chapteen and he was a tad headstrong. I told him I was the mother of four boys and I wasn’t going to take any crap from him… But alas, he didn’t give a flying fig.

We were given a few instructions…how to get the horse moving by making kissing sounds and whacking the house in the flank with the stirrup, how to get him to go left or right, and most importantly…how to stop!

Off we all went in a line and we had to keep our horses at least 4 feet from the back of the horse in front of us. My horse did pretty well with that, but he insisted on occasionally plunging his head into the grass to pull out a tuft to munch on. I almost flew over his neck when he first grabbed the grass…and he practically dislocated my shoulder as I tried to keep him from doing that. To no avail!

One of the horses in front of me actually kicked his back legs out to keep the horse behind him away. He also tried to kick one of the gaucho’s horse as the gaucho went along side of him. Yikes!!!

And then… We were riding our horses along side the water, when one of the horses decided to just lie down…with one of the riders on him. Just like a camel! Holy cow! I’m so glad it wasn’t my horse. (Although I did say to my horse in a menacing voice…”Don’t even THINK about trying that stunt!!” Whether he heard? I’ll never know.) The gauchos had to ride over to the horse who was down and finally, they were able to get him up and back on the trail.

The ride was beautiful. The scenery stunning. At one point we had to ride down a steep hill, cross over water and rocks, and then clamber up the other side. When I saw that… I was like… You’ve got to be freaking kidding me!!!!! But my horse did it with a little urging from me and all was fine.

When we returned to the corral and got off our horses, one of the ladies in our group who didn’t ride a horse asked me how it was. I said “It ranked right up there with root canal!” She burst out laughing hysterically and said “That’s the funniest thing I’ve heard all trip!” (I’ll be here all week folks!!)

So even though my horse was a little headstrong, at least I can say…I rode a horse in the countryside of Patagonia in Chile. What an amazing experience!

We watched a gaucho demonstrate his prowess with his dogs as they rounded up sheep and then we walked to where the lamb was cooking. We watched the gaucho carve up the meat and it smelled delicious!

We went back to the house and the manager of the ranch told us how the ranch is run. She said the owners of the ranch have 500 cattle that are used for beef and right now, the cattle were about 3 miles away grazing. The cattle stay there until May when they are then brought back to the valley for the winter until August.

The horses stay at the ranch but during the slow season they are allowed to run free… No bridles, saddles, or horseshoes. When they come back after a few months, they know they have to settle down and get back to work – either herding the sheep with the dogs or giving trail rides for the guests of the ranch.

Then it was time to enjoy dinner and what a feast it was. The lamb was tender and meaty and we all enjoyed the entire meal.

We bid our goodbyes to the ranch-hands and drove to Puerto Natales to spend the night. The hotel is beautiful and our view is stunning.

Tomorrow we can sleep late and then we will have lunch at the hotel. Afterwards, we drive the four hours to Punta Arenas to embark on our ship. Punta Arenas is a port overlooking the Strait of Magellan.

So this may be the last post for awhile since there is no Wifi on the ship and I don’t think I will get cellular service. I will continue to write each day, and I will post whenever I get WiFi again.

Sunrise this morning

Along the hiking trail

Our last day in Torres del Paine… Hiking the beautiful countryside.

The gaucho

We were greeted at the ranch by the gauchos

I look more confident than I felt!

Our lamb cooking

Cutting the meat

Our feast

View from our room

On our walk yesterday

Accommodations:. Lago Grey Hotel

This morning after breakfast, we boarded the bus for an hour and a 1/2 ride to hike in the national park. We were all dressed warmly as we embarked on the hike and it was a perfect day, beautifully sunny with no wind. The hike was about 2.5 miles on a narrow path with some steep inclines.

Our local guide said that you can only see the tops of the mountains maybe 25 days out of the year. We are so lucky that today…not a cloud was nearby and we could see the mountains in their entirety.

I told Jon… that’s because of Allan and me. When we were in Alaska, Denali became visible and the guide had said it never happens. In Africa, we saw Mt Kilimanjaro… Again, a rare occurrence. And once again in Japan…Mt Fugi was cloud free. I said to Jon… So we have brought the cloudless mountains to you. You’re welcome! 😂

The mountains are beautiful and the photos don’t do them justice. You feel so insignificant standing and gazing up at the snow covered peaks. At one point, Our guide Jon had us find a private spot and we had some moments of silence as we let the magnificence of the mountains surround us as well as our thoughts.

We learned that the Patagonian ice field is the largest mass of ice in the Southern Hemisphere outside Antarctica. The ice is locked up in the spine of the Andes, with glaciers flowing into Chile’s jagged fjords on its western side and into a network of gigantic lakes on its eastern Argentinian side.

We enjoyed a box lunch, sitting outside right by a lake. The lakes are different shades of blue and gray and so very peaceful.

We had a quick stop back at the hotel and then it was off for a three mile hike. Everything started out okay, as we tramped through foliage on a narrow path, but then we had to cross a sandy pebble beach. The wind was horrific although Jon our guide said, “Today was nothing! It can get much worse!” I’m not sure how, since the wind was kicking up the pebbles and giving me an exfoliant facial. Allan and I got about 3/4’s of the way across the sand to the island and I decided… enough is enough. We turned back and the wind was now right in our faces. Sometimes we could hardly keep walking the wind was so strong.

Some of the others in our group had turned around before they even started across the sand. Walking in sand is not easy and with the wind… It wasn’t fun.

We had dinner and then a few of us went for after-dinner drinks. It was a fun evening.

Tomorrow is another busy day.

Our hotel.

On the way to our morning hike.

Hiking along the narrow path

What a gorgeous day!!!

Made it to the end

Picnic lunch at the lake.

We crossed this sandy beach. The wind was whipping and it wasn’t great fun.

Accommodations: Lago Grey Hotel

We were up early again and after breakfast we boarded the bus at 7:30 so we would be able to cross the Argentinian/Chilean border, getting there before other buses, so we wouldn’t have to wait hours to cross. Jon asked Allan and I how our room was at the hotel, and we said it was lovely. Apparently, he had upgraded our room, so that was very nice of him to do. 

Our bus journey will take us to Torres del Paine, in Chile, a national park that was declared a World Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO in 1978. The park is unspoiled, remote, and the landscape is dramatic with the rock formations of the Andes and the grasses of the plains.

We drove through Patagonia with our guide from yesterday. The scenery was beautiful along the way and our guide made the bus ride enjoyable. She spoke about the economy in Argentina and how she will be opening a bank account in the US to keep her family’s money safe from the extremely fluctuating economy of Argentina.

 On the way, we enjoyed mate, (pronounced ma tay) a drink made from steeped dried yerba mate leaves.  It is served in a calabash gourd with a metal straw called a bombilla. The drink is served hot and it has an earthy, grassy taste. It has many health benefits like lowering cholesterol and boosting the immune system. 

Apparently Argentinians enjoy drinking it all day…adding hot water to the leaves to be able to keep drinking it. The temperature of the water is crucial. Too hot and it will burn the leaves, too cold and you won’t get the robust taste. It is a drink you share with friends as you enjoy each other’s company. 

At the border, we said goodbye to our guide from yesterday and welcomed a new local guide who will be with us for the next few days. We also changed buses at the border and our bus driver transferred all of our luggage. We were not allowed to bring unpackaged nuts, raw fruit, raw vegetables, or honey into the country. We thought the luggage would be scanned, but it wasn’t. Only our personal items were. Allan said he thought he saw  a dog that walked around the luggage, smelling for contraband. 

After having our passports stamped, we entered Chile. It was interesting to realize that the road in Argentina was a rugged dirt road, but we knew the minute we entered Chile as the road was paved.

 We had a delicious chicken soup for lunch at a local restaurant. Very tasty with tender chicken, corn, squash, and vegetables.

The mountains and scenery were spectacular as well as breathtaking, and I don’t say that lightly. At one point, Jon invited us to get out of the bus to climb an incline to see the view. It was extremely windy. The local guide said probably 40 mph winds, but we all felt it was much more. We literally were being blown around as we attempted to climb, losing our footing as the wind pushed into our bodies. I reached the top and the wind was howling and the guide literally had to grab me so I didn’t get blown away. The wind took my breath away…not only by seeing the beautiful vista, but by literally taking my breath away as I could barely breathe, as the gusts of wind plunged down into my lungs. 

We took our pictures and Allan and I clung to each other as we made our way back down. We could just about keep ourselves from going over the edge as we fought to stay on the path. 

When I got back in the bus, I started coughing since my throat was so dry. I put on a mask which helped, as I rebreathed the warm air from my lungs. It was quite an experience! 

After many hours, we arrived at our hotel. We are in the middle of nowhere, surrounded by the ice covered mountains and the amazing scenery. The different blues of the sky and the lakes, the bright whites of the snow covered mountains, and the many colors of green in the foliage make for a truly stunning experience. 

 Our entire group was upgraded to the new section of the hotel and Allan’s and my room overlooks the lake with the mountains in the distance.

We all sat together to enjoy a delicious dinner at the hotel, replete with wine. Allan and I had an after-dinner drink in the bar and then it was off to bed as we have a lot of hiking to do tomorrow. 

Delicious soup for lunch

We were very lucky that there was no cloud cover on the mountain and we were able to clearly see the three towers. The Towers of Paine are the distinctive three granite peaks of the Paine mountain range or Paine Massif. From left to right they are known as Torre d’Agostini, Torre Central and Torre Monzino.

beautiful fox at the border

Mate

View from our room.

Accomodations: Kosten Aike

After breakfast we started on a journey to the National Park in Patagonia.

Along the way, out local guide pointed out many birds that she was able to spot. We saw the chimango caracara, the southern crested caracara, the lesser rhea, and the Andean condor whose wings span can be 12 feet.

We also saw the calafate plant and many beautiful shrubs. The leaves are changing and the colors were spectacular.

We passed by a gaucho ranch nestled in the countryside. So bucolic.

We then stopped at a roadside shrine to pay our respects to Gauchito Gil a popular and legendary character, deeply embedded in Argentina history. He is the subject of worship and devotion throughout the country. Jonatan brought two cans of beer since, when you pay your respects and ask for something, you must first offer the saint something as well. Most people pour either beer or wine in front of the shrine. Our guide said it is very serious and we were told to be respectful. We each took a turn pouring the beer and silently asking for our request. The shrines are all over and easily identified by the color red.

We finally arrived at the National Park and the heavens opened up. It was a bit windy, but the rain took center stage. We were all bundled up with long-johns and winter and rain gear, and thankfully it helped while the rain poured down.

We walked all along the ramps to view the glacier. We must have climbed 1,000 steps…up and down and up and down. It was quite something. You really had to be fit in order to walk along.

The walkways can be traveled in several directions and have different routes, viewpoints, and balconies to get the best views of the glacier. Undoubtedly, it is an excellent way to enjoy the glacier from different perspectives.

After we arrived back at the hotel, some of our group went to a wine tasting. The wines were very good and it was a fun time.

Then we met our friend Barbara and we went out to dinner where we thought the rest of the group had gone. We were seated, but didn’t see anyone we knew. We decided to leave and I said to the waiter “Mi amigos no estan aqui!” He understood (even though I’m not sure if what I said was correct) and off we went in search of the other BBQ restaurant.

We found it and we had a great dinner of lamb, beef, sweetbreads, intestines, and a few other meats we had no clue what they were. We had a veggie platter and all in all it was a great meal.

We leave very early tomorrow morning.

Pouring the beer as an offering.

The Perito Moreno Glacier

Beautiful foliage

Gaucho ranch

Beautiful blues

Wine tasting

Accomodations: Kosten Aike

We were up bright and early to catch our flight to El Calafate. El Calafate is named for the calafate bush and the local myth is that if you eat the berries of this plant, it will ensure that you will return one day to this beautiful place.

And what a beautiful place it is. The town is lively with a young vibe and restaurants, bars, ice cream, and chocolate shops abound. Young people are all over toting backpacks, sleeping bags, and fishing poles, as they make their way to the glacier park to camp.

There is lavender growing all over and there are roses blooming all over as well. Just gorgeous. When you walk by, you can smell the lavender since the plants are huge. Stray dogs are roaming the streets and they are being fed by the shop owners.

Allan and I walked up and down the town and popped into the ice cream shop to enjoy a treat. I had a scoop of dulce de leche and Allan had an almond scoop as well as a pistachio one.

We found a store that was selling everything including jewelry and Allan bought me a lovely sterling silver slide with my birthstone of turquoise.

We all met at 5:30 and bussed over for dinner at a local’s home. Gabriel our host prepared a delicious repast for us. Vegetable soup, lamb stew, and of course the traditional dessert of crepes with dulce de leche. The wine flowed and we all enjoyed sitting at the table and chatting with Gabriel as well as each other.

Gabriel loves to cook and he has written a cookbook which features not only his recipes, but also his mom’s. He also loves dogs. He has eight of them. His home is very eclectic and everywhere you looked was something special to see. He said the dogs that roam the streets in town sadly are not spayed or neutered and the population of dogs is getting out of control.

He does many dinners for friends as well as for tourists, especially Overseas Adventure Travel tourists. He is busy during the season, but the winters are cold and he doesn’t have that many guests to cook for. His dogs keep him company.

We had a wonderful evening and then it was back to the hotel (which is beautiful) to get ready for our day tomorrow at Los Glaciares National Park.

By the way, I have neglected to list the hotels we’ve been staying in… so I’m listing the ones we’ve been in so far. Each one has been excellent.
Intercontinental Santiago – Santiago Taha Tai Hotel – Easter Island. Holiday Inn Aeropuerto – Santiago. Arc Recoleta Hotel – Buenos Aires

Allan bought me a sterling silver slide with my birthstone in El Calafate

Flying into El Calafate

Our welcome drink

Gabriel’s dinner table

Vegetable soup

Lamb stew

A room in Gabriel’s home

Dessert

Lavender is all over the town

We started the day with breakfast at the hotel and then we went around Buenos Aires on a bus tour of the city.

Buenos Aires is sometimes referred to as “The Paris of the South” because of its culture, which was strongly influenced by the Europeans. The city is vibrant and since today is Saturday, there was music and people walking about enjoying the weather. The city has many theaters and is by far the largest cultural city in Latin America.

It is the home of Teatro Colon, a famous opera house. One famous opera singer once said that there is good news and bad news about the opera house. The good news is…the opera house has the best acoustics ever in any opera house. The bad news is, I will have to perform my very best because if I sing badly, it will be highlighted by those acoustics.

We stopped at the Obelisk of Buenos Aires located in the Plaza of the Republic. It was erected in 1936 to commemorate the quadricentennial of the first foundation of the city. In 1975, during the government of Isabel Peron, (who became Juan Peron’s wife after the death of Eva, and eventually President of Argentina), a sign was hung around the obelisk with the motto “El Silencio es salud “ meaning “silence is health”. It allegedly meant for motorists not to honk their horns, but many felt it really meant for Argentinians to refrain from discussing politics.

Not far from the obelisk is Plaza de Mayo, the oldest square in Buenos Aires and the focal point for politics since Argentina declared its independence. Eva Peron as First Lady, often would address the people from the balcony of Casa Rosada, or Pink Building, which was the seat of the Argentine National government and housed the president’s office. Eva was very popular, but she did not want to accept any position in her husband’s government, and maintained her idea of ​​dedicating herself fully to developing social activity in the foundation that bore her name. In this way, and with financing from public funds, she distributed monies to those who needed it most. She also knew that she had cancer and would not be around for very much longer. She died at the age of 33.

We also learned about The Mothers of Plaza de Mayo, which were the first major group to organize against the Argentina regime’s human rights violations. The women wore nappies…or diapers on their heads during their protests. According to my research, the women wore these white diapers to symbolize the diapers of their lost children. The children’s names were sewn onto the diapers and their date of birth. Sadly, the government refused to answer questions about the missing people. Despite personal risks, the women wanted to hold the government accountable for its murders and other abuses committed in the Dirty War. They were very brave and determined women.

We visited the Metropolitan Cathedral where the remains of Jose de San Martin are entombed. A changing of the guard event takes place here every two hours on Saturdays, as guards march from Casa Rosada into the cathedral. Two guards remain guarding the tomb and then five guards march back to the Casa Rosada. Considered the father of the nation, San Martin fought for the independence of Argentina, Chile, and Peru.

Overseas Adventure Travel is unique in the fact that often, the tourists have an opportunity to discuss a controversial topic with someone who was directly involved in the controversy. Today we had the opportunity to meet with a man who lived through and was impacted by a very dark time in Argentina – The Dirty War.

It is estimated that between 22,000 and 30,000 people were killed or just disappeared between 1974 to 1983. The primary targets were communist guerrillas and sympathizers, but also included students, writers, journalists, artists and any citizens suspected of being left-wing activists. They were thought to be a threat to the junta. According to the dictionary, a junta is “a group of persons controlling a government especially after a revolutionary seizure of power.”

By the 1980s, economic collapse as well as public discontent, resulted in the end of the junta and the restoration of democracy in Argentina, effectively ending the Dirty War. Many members of the junta are currently in prison for the crimes against humanity that they committed.

The man who spoke with us said that when he was only a few weeks old, his mother was taken and never heard from again. His father went into hiding and he was raised by his grandmother, whom he thought of as his mother. His father would visit on occasion, but had to be very careful since the junta was always watching and he could have been arrested if caught visiting.

Some women that were activists and happened to also be pregnant, were taken and after the child was born, the Catholic Church would baptize the child and then give the child to another family, since the mother would be tortured or killed. The man who spoke with us said he was fortunate that he was taken in by his grandmother. Eventually, after the Dirty War, his father remarried, and took the whole family to Patagonia.

People are still looking for members of their family who were taken and presumably tortured and killed during the Dirty War. Interestingly, since 9/11 and America’s efforts to identify those who perished in 9/11 by using DNA analysis, America has shared that technology, and some Argentinians were finally able to locate their loved ones remains through DNA. This man said that his mother’s bones were finally released to him and he had closure.

The Dirty War left a profound impact on Argentine culture, which is still felt to this day.

We thanked the man for sharing his poignant story with us and then went off to Choripoint, a BBQ place in Boca Lacura, where we enjoyed Argentinian chorizo – pork and/or beef sausage, that is served between two slices of bread in a choripan sandwich. It is a dish enjoyed throughout Argentina.

Jonatan said that when he was a boy, his father was an avid soccer fan. He and his dad would go to the games on a Saturday, and they would always buy chorizo to enjoy before they entered the stadium to cheer for their team. Cheering for the team meant jumping up and down and yelling while sitting in the stadium, as well as eating the food, and then…they would go home and watch the tape of the game at home since they were always too busy cheering to pay attention to the actual game.

There was a game today, and the streets were filled with futbol fans wearing the team jerseys of blue and yellow, and many were “tailgating” and enjoying choripans. I must say, the sandwich was delicious!

Before we boarded the bus back to the hotel, I bought a lovely handmade collage that was a lovely momento of Buenos Aires as well as our tango lesson.

We wanted to tour the famous opera house on the way back to the hotel, but they were sold out, so we just relaxed until it was time to go to our home hosted dinner.

Our hostess was lovely and spoke English very well. She spoke about how expensive everything is in Argentina and she looks forward to going to the United States to purchase clothing and other things that she can get much cheaper there.

She said the medical system in Argentina is very poor and the hospitals do not have the proper equipment for medical care.

We enjoyed salad, shepherd’s pie, and a crepe with a dulce de leche sauce inside. We also made our own sandwich cookies with the caramel inside and we rolled them in coconut.

It was a very enjoyable evening.

The Obelisk

Face of Eva Peron on the building

Changing of the guard

Evita would address the crowds from the second floor balcony where the brown columns are.

The white diapers that the women wore on their heads are painted on the stones in the plaza.

Metropolitan Cathedral

The colorful buildings along the streets

Our sandwich

My collage

Allan enjoying the choripan sandwich

Wine our hostess served. It was a very nice Malbec

We took a 3 hour flight from Santiago to Buenos Aires. Security went through our luggage to make sure we weren’t smuggling fruit, rocks, etc. into Argentina and they also carefully looked at the weight of both our checked and carry-on luggage to make sure we weren’t over the limit

We landed in Argentina and went directly to our hotel. Fortunately our rooms were ready and we checked in and then Jon our guide showed us where we could get our laundry done…same day service.

We went on a short orientation tour around the city, brought our laundry to the shop, and then went to a 4 o’clock “Meet the rest of the Group” OAT introduction meeting. Jon explained what to expect in the next few weeks and it truly will be an amazing trip.

After the discussion, a couple came in and gave us tango lessons. So much fun!! We learned three different steps and switched partners to keep dancing. Jon said we can dance on the ship and show-off what we learned.

We walked over to pick up our laundry. We had given the man a huge pile of clothes to be washed and dried, since we had been pretty sweaty on Easter Island and our clothes were ripe. We had to pay $13!!! Unbelievable. Wish I had sent even more clothes to be freshened up.

16 of us accompanied Jon to one of his favorite restaurants for dinner. The waiter was a hoot and told us exactly what we should choose for dinner. We ordered a delicious bottle of Malbec which we actually finished.

The meal was delicious and we enjoyed talking with the new people who arrived today.

It will be a busy day tomorrow.

Did not stop in for a burger

Margarita empanadas and carne empanadas for lunch. So good!

Tango lesson. We all did great!

Dinner tonight. Breaded beef, spinach and garlic, and French fries. And of course…the wine!

We had a nice breakfast once again on Easter Island and then we walked to a bakery that sells empanadas.

Allan and I purchased tuna empanadas to take with us to eat on the plane since the Latam airline food in coach is pretty vile. A few of us went to pick up empanadas and then Barbara and I walked to the post office so she could mail some letters.

We kept walking looking for the church where we were supposed to turn to get to the post office, but we seemed to be walking too far. I finally asked someone, in Spanish, once again I might add, where the church was and where the post office was. We got directions and from then on it was fine getting back to the hotel. We walked right by the ocean and the breeze was welcoming because it was rather hot.

We arrived at the airport and once again, check-in went very well and the four hour flight was fine. We ate our empanadas which were tasty, although half way thru mine, the tuna started to taste fishy so I didn’t finish it.

We arrived in Santiago and we actually walked to our hotel since it was right outside the airport.

We had dinner with our friends and then it was off to bed as we leave the hotel at 6:45 in the morning.

Yesterday, I had washed some of our Columbia travel shirts, and they were totally dry by morning. They are amazing. I’m a little stiff this morning from the climb that we did yesterday and all the steps we navigated. Thank goodness for Advil.

We had breakfast this morning sitting on the back patio once again, and then got ready for another adventure filled day. When we were leaving, a Viking tour group was also on their way out.

First stop was to learn all about the Bird-Man Cult. The Bird-Man Cult revolved around fertility and the worship of migratory seabirds. The Bird-Man, or Tangata Manu, was a title given to the winner of a traditional competition that took place each year on Easter Island. Each contestant would appoint one or sometimes two hopu (other adult men of lesser status) who would actually swim to Motu Nui carrying provisions in a bundle of reeds called a pora under one arm and await the arrival of the terns, hoping to return with the first egg. Meanwhile, their tribal sponsors, the contestants, waited at the stone village of Orongo.

The competition was dangerous. The hopu had to repel down the cliff at Rano Kau without the aid of ropes or tools, swim across to the islet of Motu Nui where the birds would be alighting to nest and lay eggs. There they would wait for the birds. They had supplies to wait for the birds to lay the eggs, because they carried a bundle of food, etc. on their backs when they embarked on the competition, knowing they would be staying on the islet for a few days awaiting the eggs to be laid, hoping to be the first to find an egg and return to Ranu Kau with the prized egg intact.

Once the first egg was collected, the finder would call out to the shore of the main island, and announce he had the egg. He would yell to his benefactor “Shave your body” because the leader would have to shave his hair and have his body painted red and white. The cry would be taken up by listeners at the shoreline, who would pass it up the cliffside to the man of importance. The successful hopu would then swim back to the main island with the egg secured inside a reed basket tied to his forehead. When he reached land, he would then climb the steep, rocky cliff face and present the egg.

Now the man of importance is declared the winner or new tangata-manu. The new tangata-manu was entitled to gifts of food and other tributes and his clan would have sole rights to collect that season’s harvest of wild bird eggs and fledglings from Motu Nui. The bird-man cult was ended by Christian missionaries in the 1860s.

We saw the houses used in the Bird-Man competition. They are stone houses that were built in the ceremonial village of Orongo. The village of Orongo was located on the edge of the volcano Rano Kau, overlooking the sea. The houses were made of stone called kehu and were designed to withstand strong winds. They had a flat area above the home which was covered with dirt and grass that made the inside of the home completely waterproof.

People slept in the houses which were basically underground. They did not cook in the house, but instead built fires outside of the abode.

We then visited Ahu Huri a Urenga, a solitary moai which is of importance because it has two pairs of hands. It is thought to have acted as a solar observatory, marking the start of winter.

We then enjoyed a home hosted lunch. We arrived and were welcomed by our hostess and she showed us the ground floor of her home, which overlooked the ocean. Her kitchen was the equivalent of a chef kitchen since she, in addition to hosting OAT travelers for lunch, caters meals as well.

Before we sat down to eat, she took us on an hour long stroll through her beautiful fruit garden. Most of the plants and trees had been planted by her mother, who passed away three years ago. Our hostess and her husband have taken over the care of the garden although it is a huge task.

There were avocado trees galore, laden with beautiful specimens. There were guava trees, banana trees, mango trees, passion fruit trees, and so many more as well as a coffee plant. She said, however, they did not use the beans to make coffee as the process was too complicated.

The meal she served was delicious. There was tuna on sweet potato slices sprinkled with Parmesan, homemade potato chips, a delicious salad, and wrap filled with a yellow and red pepper salsa. There was also a different variety sweet potato and a spoon filled with shrimp.

She shares all the fruit she grows with neighbors and family. She doesn’t grow vegetables at this point, but she does have a greenhouse a few minutes away that her mom used to grow things in, and she will soon begin to plant there as well.

After the meal we had the opportunity to ask her questions about her life. She is 50% Rapanui. On Easter Island, only Rapanui can own property.

She said they do not have medical specialists on the island as bringing in medical equipment is cost prohibitive. They do have doctors and nearby we saw the local hospital.

The residents have to pay for water as well as electricity. She recycles and reuses many things that she needs in her kitchen. She told how years ago her mother had to use everything that they obtained because the plane that came in with supplies only came once a year. Her mother was recycling even before it was the trendy thing to do. Her mother would take a can, hit it with an hammer to poke holes in it, and use it to grate cheese. Very clever. Actually today, everyone on Easter Island recycles and is ecologically aware. Even at our hotel, we are not permitted to throw toilet paper into the toilet, but we are asked to place the used tissue in the bin next to the toilet.

After we said our thank you’s to our wonderful hostess , we bid goodbye and got back in the bus. Some of us got off nearby the hotel to walk around the town. We saw a Catholic Church, but we couldn’t go in because it was locked.

Allan and I walked back to the hotel along the ocean path and went to the hotel bar to use our free drink coupons. I had a pisco sour and Allan had a beer.

At around 7 pm, the group got together back in the bus and visited the Tahai ceremonial complex. It was restored in 1974 by an American archaeologist William Mulloy. There are 3 ahu – but Ko Te Riku has restored eyes. The lone moai has a bun made from a red stone and is the only moai throughout the island with coral eyes. Williams Mulloy is buried at the site along with his wife.

Our local guide Noi and our OAT guide Jon set up a lovely spread for us to enjoy as we waited for the sunset. There was wine, beer, soda, and charcuterie boards. They also gave us delicious chicken wraps. We thought it was going to pour, but the rain held off and we watched the sunset over the ocean.

We bid goodbye to Noi and when I shook her hand she told me I had beautiful eyes. She said that when she first saw me she thought to herself.. wow.. those eyes! So gorgeous! Awww shucks.

We leave Easter Island tomorrow and fly back to Santiago.

The islet of Motu Nui The competitors would scale down to the ocean from the top of this vista, swim over to the big island, and then scale the next steep cliff to try to be the first one to find the egg.

One of the homes with the flat roof.

Rano Kay is an extinct volcano. It was formed of basaltic lava flows and its youngest rocks are dated at between 150,000 and 210,000 years ago.

Ahu Huri a Urenga,

The homeowner’s recycle bins

Avocados

Some of the fruit she picks right off the tree

Our delicious lunch

Passion fruit with cucumber and melon for dessert.

Catholic Church

There are lots of dogs, horses, and chickens roaming around.

William Mulloy’s grave

The ahu with coral eyes.

The sun sets on our last evening on Easter Island.

We had a lovely breakfast sitting on the patio of the hotel restaurant overlooking the ocean. Then it was off for our adventure of the day.

There are different viewpoints in exactly how many moai statues have been found on Easter Island, but it is estimated that it took 6 men about a year to carve them with hand-held tools. 

At Ahu Vaigu, there is an ancient settlement where you can see a large ceremonial platform – ahu . The large ahu supported 8 statues that now lie on the ground facedown. The place is a good example of huri moai, or demolition of the moai, which took place in the 18th century as a result of the internal struggles between clans. That is also speculative.

Interestingly, the platform or “ahu” that the statues stood on were the main structure that signified importance. You can’t tell now, but they used to be adorned with white coral and red stone decorations. The location of the Moai statues also designates the area where the different families/tribes lived.

Carving giant statues from volcanic rock is pretty believable. But moving these super heavy rocks is not as easy to figure out. Scientists have tried finding evidence, and have even attempted moving them using different techniques, but no luck. It also is difficult to find out how old these statues are. The material they are built out of cannot be carbon dated, so archeologists have to use the surrounding soil to try to find the age of the statues.

The backs of the statues are flat which might make it easier to slide across dirt, and we were told that some of the statues were sent down the mountainside into pre-dug holes, so the statues could slip into the holes and wind up in the upright position. It does seem unbelievable.

i believe most of the statues on the island have been restored, but there are many sites that have not been restored.

We hiked up the steep step incline to see the statues, and at times the steps were difficult to manage because they were very uneven. It reminded me of Machu Picchu. I didn’t have hiking poles, but I nonetheless, I did very well navigating the steps. Allan was there to lend a hand when necessary, but for the most part…I did it on my own. If only my cardiologist could see me now!!

I must say, the island is beautiful. Surrounded by the sea and the lush vegetation, it makes the island a true oasis.

There is so much to impart about the moai and the history of the statues – too much to put on this blog, so if you’re interested, I suggest you research on your own.

We had a very nice chicken dish for lunch and we sat outside at a table and enjoyed not only the chicken, but a delicious fruit cocktail for dessert as well as guava juice.

We toured some more sites of the statues in the afternoon. The statues are surrounded by small rocks and you are not allowed to go beyond the rocks. One of the tourists from another tour group crossed the rocks to go right up to the statues to take a photo. People were yelling and security came and took the man away, along with the tour guide. Our guide was visibly upset as well, because for the man to do something like that was apparently a sign of immense disrespect.

We finished the day with a swim at Anakena beach. The water was warm and I don’t think many people can say, they took a swim on Easter Island, so it was a very special experience indeed.

We went to a local restaurant for dinner and dined on lentil salad and shrimp in coconut milk sauce with rice. Outstanding! We had a dessert made from pumpkin, something I wouldn’t expect on Easter Island.

During dinner, our guide Jonatan got into a discussion with me on pizza. He claims that there is nothing like the pizza from Argentina. I said, “then you’ve never had New York pizza”. He said he had, and the pizza in Buenos Aires is much better!  I argued…that can’t be possible and then he said that Chicago pizza is also waaay better than NY. Now he’s blasphemous, and I told him I didn’t think we could be friends anymore. LOL! . But Jon said he’d take me to a pizza place in Buenos Aires and I can decide for myself. We shall see!! 

After dinner back at the hotel, we sat with our new friends and shared wine, chocolate, and stories. It was a fun evening.

This is a how the settlers grew food.

Moai

Our lunch.

This area on Easter Island has 15 Moai which has the largest of the monuments that are all in a row.