Bird-Man, Home Hosted Lunch, and Sunset at Tahai Beach

Yesterday, I had washed some of our Columbia travel shirts, and they were totally dry by morning. They are amazing. I’m a little stiff this morning from the climb that we did yesterday and all the steps we navigated. Thank goodness for Advil.

We had breakfast this morning sitting on the back patio once again, and then got ready for another adventure filled day. When we were leaving, a Viking tour group was also on their way out.

First stop was to learn all about the Bird-Man Cult. The Bird-Man Cult revolved around fertility and the worship of migratory seabirds. The Bird-Man, or Tangata Manu, was a title given to the winner of a traditional competition that took place each year on Easter Island. Each contestant would appoint one or sometimes two hopu (other adult men of lesser status) who would actually swim to Motu Nui carrying provisions in a bundle of reeds called a pora under one arm and await the arrival of the terns, hoping to return with the first egg. Meanwhile, their tribal sponsors, the contestants, waited at the stone village of Orongo.

The competition was dangerous. The hopu had to repel down the cliff at Rano Kau without the aid of ropes or tools, swim across to the islet of Motu Nui where the birds would be alighting to nest and lay eggs. There they would wait for the birds. They had supplies to wait for the birds to lay the eggs, because they carried a bundle of food, etc. on their backs when they embarked on the competition, knowing they would be staying on the islet for a few days awaiting the eggs to be laid, hoping to be the first to find an egg and return to Ranu Kau with the prized egg intact.

Once the first egg was collected, the finder would call out to the shore of the main island, and announce he had the egg. He would yell to his benefactor “Shave your body” because the leader would have to shave his hair and have his body painted red and white. The cry would be taken up by listeners at the shoreline, who would pass it up the cliffside to the man of importance. The successful hopu would then swim back to the main island with the egg secured inside a reed basket tied to his forehead. When he reached land, he would then climb the steep, rocky cliff face and present the egg.

Now the man of importance is declared the winner or new tangata-manu. The new tangata-manu was entitled to gifts of food and other tributes and his clan would have sole rights to collect that season’s harvest of wild bird eggs and fledglings from Motu Nui. The bird-man cult was ended by Christian missionaries in the 1860s.

We saw the houses used in the Bird-Man competition. They are stone houses that were built in the ceremonial village of Orongo. The village of Orongo was located on the edge of the volcano Rano Kau, overlooking the sea. The houses were made of stone called kehu and were designed to withstand strong winds. They had a flat area above the home which was covered with dirt and grass that made the inside of the home completely waterproof.

People slept in the houses which were basically underground. They did not cook in the house, but instead built fires outside of the abode.

We then visited Ahu Huri a Urenga, a solitary moai which is of importance because it has two pairs of hands. It is thought to have acted as a solar observatory, marking the start of winter.

We then enjoyed a home hosted lunch. We arrived and were welcomed by our hostess and she showed us the ground floor of her home, which overlooked the ocean. Her kitchen was the equivalent of a chef kitchen since she, in addition to hosting OAT travelers for lunch, caters meals as well.

Before we sat down to eat, she took us on an hour long stroll through her beautiful fruit garden. Most of the plants and trees had been planted by her mother, who passed away three years ago. Our hostess and her husband have taken over the care of the garden although it is a huge task.

There were avocado trees galore, laden with beautiful specimens. There were guava trees, banana trees, mango trees, passion fruit trees, and so many more as well as a coffee plant. She said, however, they did not use the beans to make coffee as the process was too complicated.

The meal she served was delicious. There was tuna on sweet potato slices sprinkled with Parmesan, homemade potato chips, a delicious salad, and wrap filled with a yellow and red pepper salsa. There was also a different variety sweet potato and a spoon filled with shrimp.

She shares all the fruit she grows with neighbors and family. She doesn’t grow vegetables at this point, but she does have a greenhouse a few minutes away that her mom used to grow things in, and she will soon begin to plant there as well.

After the meal we had the opportunity to ask her questions about her life. She is 50% Rapanui. On Easter Island, only Rapanui can own property.

She said they do not have medical specialists on the island as bringing in medical equipment is cost prohibitive. They do have doctors and nearby we saw the local hospital.

The residents have to pay for water as well as electricity. She recycles and reuses many things that she needs in her kitchen. She told how years ago her mother had to use everything that they obtained because the plane that came in with supplies only came once a year. Her mother was recycling even before it was the trendy thing to do. Her mother would take a can, hit it with an hammer to poke holes in it, and use it to grate cheese. Very clever. Actually today, everyone on Easter Island recycles and is ecologically aware. Even at our hotel, we are not permitted to throw toilet paper into the toilet, but we are asked to place the used tissue in the bin next to the toilet.

After we said our thank you’s to our wonderful hostess , we bid goodbye and got back in the bus. Some of us got off nearby the hotel to walk around the town. We saw a Catholic Church, but we couldn’t go in because it was locked.

Allan and I walked back to the hotel along the ocean path and went to the hotel bar to use our free drink coupons. I had a pisco sour and Allan had a beer.

At around 7 pm, the group got together back in the bus and visited the Tahai ceremonial complex. It was restored in 1974 by an American archaeologist William Mulloy. There are 3 ahu – but Ko Te Riku has restored eyes. The lone moai has a bun made from a red stone and is the only moai throughout the island with coral eyes. Williams Mulloy is buried at the site along with his wife.

Our local guide Noi and our OAT guide Jon set up a lovely spread for us to enjoy as we waited for the sunset. There was wine, beer, soda, and charcuterie boards. They also gave us delicious chicken wraps. We thought it was going to pour, but the rain held off and we watched the sunset over the ocean.

We bid goodbye to Noi and when I shook her hand she told me I had beautiful eyes. She said that when she first saw me she thought to herself.. wow.. those eyes! So gorgeous! Awww shucks.

We leave Easter Island tomorrow and fly back to Santiago.

The islet of Motu Nui The competitors would scale down to the ocean from the top of this vista, swim over to the big island, and then scale the next steep cliff to try to be the first one to find the egg.